Looking for new Sportive/Fondo/ climb bike
Moderator: robbosmans
My previous go to road bike was this, sadly after meeting a motorcycle crossing the road thinking he was alone....:
I realy liked this bike.
So i'm looking out for buying a supersix. Rim or disc, etap, or DI2, or maybe mechanical.
What's strange that nobody puts weights of complete bikes on there Site. Why is this???
I was looking at Supersixes, Cervelo R5/R3, Focus.... They all 'forgot' to mention the weight???
Any advice on making the right choise is welcome.
I realy liked this bike.
So i'm looking out for buying a supersix. Rim or disc, etap, or DI2, or maybe mechanical.
What's strange that nobody puts weights of complete bikes on there Site. Why is this???
I was looking at Supersixes, Cervelo R5/R3, Focus.... They all 'forgot' to mention the weight???
Any advice on making the right choise is welcome.
The are still posting weights for their rim brake bikes
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Trek lists weights for all of their models (in 56cm).
As far as group weights, eTap is ever so slightly lighter than Dura-Ace Di2. It’s a matter of 10-20 grams I think. Ultegra Di2 is 250-300 grams heavier than Dura-Ace Di2.
As far as group weights, eTap is ever so slightly lighter than Dura-Ace Di2. It’s a matter of 10-20 grams I think. Ultegra Di2 is 250-300 grams heavier than Dura-Ace Di2.
- VTR1000SP2
- Posts: 930
- Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2013 8:21 pm
If you’re open to used, this could be viewed as an aesthetically flawed but fairly priced SuperSix - https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 3222241228
From my own experience, R9150 shifters, derailleurs, wires and a battery weigh a little less than eTap (shifters + derailleurs) but the RED BB30 crank in this case would be over 100gr lighter than DA. Brakeset has a bit in it but I haven’t used OEM brakes in a while opting instead for ee.
Good luck and glad you made it out of that incident alive.
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From my own experience, R9150 shifters, derailleurs, wires and a battery weigh a little less than eTap (shifters + derailleurs) but the RED BB30 crank in this case would be over 100gr lighter than DA. Brakeset has a bit in it but I haven’t used OEM brakes in a while opting instead for ee.
Good luck and glad you made it out of that incident alive.
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Focus Izalco Max - 4.84kg without pedals
Cervélo Áspero - 8.28kg
Trek Madone SLR Rim - 7.73kg
Standert Triebwerk Disc - 8.47kg
Cervélo Áspero - 8.28kg
Trek Madone SLR Rim - 7.73kg
Standert Triebwerk Disc - 8.47kg
Nice Bike! But i'm from Europe Belgium. And i'm going to buy a new one.
Would stil like to know the weight difference between Supersix DA/ Supersix DA disc & CAAD12 DA disc/rim
Why do they make it so difficult to compare... Previous years i remember Canondale having listings of all there bike with price/weight in pdf format.
Maybe the ocho equiped bikes and systemsixes are havier then their aluminium budget bikes...
Would stil like to know the weight difference between Supersix DA/ Supersix DA disc & CAAD12 DA disc/rim
Why do they make it so difficult to compare... Previous years i remember Canondale having listings of all there bike with price/weight in pdf format.
Maybe the ocho equiped bikes and systemsixes are havier then their aluminium budget bikes...
- VTR1000SP2
- Posts: 930
- Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2013 8:21 pm
Assume you’ve seen this? https://weightweenies.starbike.com/foru ... p?t=147970
Anecdotal this may be but I set a PR up a local climb on a gravel bike that weighed 8kg beating the time previously set on my aero bike which is 7kg.
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Anecdotal this may be but I set a PR up a local climb on a gravel bike that weighed 8kg beating the time previously set on my aero bike which is 7kg.
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Focus Izalco Max - 4.84kg without pedals
Cervélo Áspero - 8.28kg
Trek Madone SLR Rim - 7.73kg
Standert Triebwerk Disc - 8.47kg
Cervélo Áspero - 8.28kg
Trek Madone SLR Rim - 7.73kg
Standert Triebwerk Disc - 8.47kg
You get a light bike because you want one. Because you think it's fun to have a bike around the UCI weight limit or less. The reason you set KOMs or PRs on climbs is because you monitor your bodyweight, follow a training plan, turn down that beer in the evening and because you are determined to suffer for a result. Bike weight? Bah, hardly anything to do with it.
Thx, for the info, you're right about that. But still i want a light. Reasable priced bike that's strong enough to handle 20.000km a year and doesn't fall apart on the cobbles. Without sacrificing performance on long climbs.
Still thinking about buying a rim brake version. But the problem for me is, when i'd put on 30mm carbon rims (mostly for looks) then the only option, for me is disc brakes. When i go the rimbrake route, i'd have to stick to my tested alpha 340 or DT 410 rims, just that tad less classy. I know, it's ridiculous.
Still thinking about buying a rim brake version. But the problem for me is, when i'd put on 30mm carbon rims (mostly for looks) then the only option, for me is disc brakes. When i go the rimbrake route, i'd have to stick to my tested alpha 340 or DT 410 rims, just that tad less classy. I know, it's ridiculous.
20,000km a year? I do that or a little more, my last bike (Fuji SL) lasted about 25,000kms according to Strava. But then again you could weigh less than me (80kg), and not come across a pot hole that's like a crater when you are drafting a truck and not crack your frame just below the seat tube, so luck plays a role.
I've got a new climbing frameset, but I'm going to spread my riding across my winter CX bike, and an aero bike. But 20,000 kms a year will take its toll on brake pads, rims, chain rings, cassettes, tires, tubes, cables, bearings and chains regardless.
Really If I was riding ONE bike 20,000kms a year, I'd get, Camapag Zondas on a Ti frame with a Shimano 105 or Ultegra groupo or buy a bike like a Specialized Tarmac or Supersix Evo and then quickly save for something else to take the pressure off it. Wheels are nice BUT surely it's better to have a climbing set, medium set and a fast set and switch them around between bikes and conditions, not purely aesthetics?
I've got a new climbing frameset, but I'm going to spread my riding across my winter CX bike, and an aero bike. But 20,000 kms a year will take its toll on brake pads, rims, chain rings, cassettes, tires, tubes, cables, bearings and chains regardless.
Really If I was riding ONE bike 20,000kms a year, I'd get, Camapag Zondas on a Ti frame with a Shimano 105 or Ultegra groupo or buy a bike like a Specialized Tarmac or Supersix Evo and then quickly save for something else to take the pressure off it. Wheels are nice BUT surely it's better to have a climbing set, medium set and a fast set and switch them around between bikes and conditions, not purely aesthetics?
I have several bikes, Niner BSB, NinerAir9 rdo, Lynskey29, Cdale caad10, Air9 alu. I had an Six13, thats was destroyed. Thats the season im looking for a new bike package. For gran fondos and road riding the classics. Flanders , Ardennes, etc....
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