Campy H11 Bleed Problem

[Vespasianus]

Had the same, think it's both

Did you replace the caliper? I have tried cleaning and oiling the piston with little luck.

[corky]

[YouTube][/YouTube]

It is a design problem pertaining to all bicycle disc models currently in my opinion. It relies on the deformation of square edge rubber seals that when the brake lever is released the seals go back to their original shape and thus retract the piston. A very simple (and light ) solution that is Spotty when it comes to road bikes. Also interesting is that Campagnolo changed the design of their pads to a better
Compound and better heat handling backing but also now include springs to help keep the pads apart.....

Apparently according to one of campy tech, its to dissipate heat better not to actually push pads apart... its doesn’t look like a very strong spring too


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The pad backing shape was changed to add some 'fins' to help with heat dissipation but I am very sceptical the spring is there for additional dissipation, I think it is to help pad retraction.....but yeah it is pretty weak.

[Vespasianus]

As an update, I had given up trying to get the front brake to work - the piston on the side opposite the hose was lazy and assumed it was me and my bleeding ability. Took it to the Campag shop and they came to the conclusion it was a bad caliper. They called it in and getting a new caliper sent my way.

[gorkypl]

Please let us know how it went. I still haven't sent mine back, waiting till end of season, but I was thinking about sending both the calipers (lazy pistons) and levers (unable to bleed correctly, air always gets in during last step of the bleeding procedure).

[Vespasianus]

Please let us know how it went. I still haven't sent mine back, waiting till end of season, but I was thinking about sending both the calipers (lazy pistons) and levers (unable to bleed correctly, air always gets in during last step of the bleeding procedure).

Will do. The rear brake was extremely easy to install and bleed. So I am hoping that once a working caliper is used, everything should go smoothly.

[Vespasianus]

So, new caliper finally came in and went on easy enough. Brakes are strong and easy to modulate. Long haul to get this together but now will go for some rides and post some pictures.

As long as the calipers are functional, the brakes bleed easy enough and I think anyone with some bike experience should be able to put this together - assuming they have the correct bleed tools (bleed kit, special bleed block and Campagnolo oil).

The move to “ready” systems that are already filled with oil is a good move though. Will post more once I get some good miles in.

[Vespasianus]

So here is how it all came together.

[c60rider]

So here is how it all came together.

IMG_7689.jpg

Personally I'm trying to get a closer look at that Tommasini

[gorkypl]

Ah, so it seems we were working on the same bike

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[Vespasianus]

So here is how it all came together.

IMG_7689.jpg

Personally I'm trying to get a closer look at that Tommasini

Will post better pictures of that bike later. Still love that bike.

[Vespasianus]

Ah, so it seems we were working on the same bike

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That is too funny. My front caliper was just bad. No attempt to move one piston would work. I tried it and the Campag shop tried it and the warranty was quick. The problem was that the shop had to be the ones to install - even if they were backlogged for 3 weeks! Drove me nuts. Talked to the shop guy and he said the new caliper bled quickly and was really easy to set up. He also said air gets in if you exactly follow the campag video. He did what I did to the 5 push/pulls, push and one pull while flicking, followed by 5 push/pulls.

How has your system worked out?

[figgie]

In the automotive world.

When bleeding a brand new brake system (car being restored), each component is always bled seperately and in the following order

1. A new Brake master Cylinder needs to be bled by itself
2. Connect line to Master Cylnder, rebleed.
3. Connect line to brake caliper, rebleed.
4. Test for correct operation.

[xfurio]

So I have a small update on this.

I think it's indeed impossible to bleed the brakes using the Campy procedure. Every time I pump the brake lever while pulling the bottom syringe, the air bubbles appear in the bottom hose - I think the air might be coming through the master cylider bladder or the caliper o-ring.
However, I spent the whole evening, bleeding using procedures for Hope, Avid and Sram brakes, also unscrewing the caliper and gently tapping and rotating it to eliminate any trapped air. I think I made it to a point where there is no air in the system.

However, the pistons still move in a very uneven way - the one on the side whithout brake hose is much slower.
So I thought I'd take a look at the rear caliper, which was not touched by me at all since being bled by Campagnolo Pro Shop. And guess what - it is even worse. One piston almost does not advance, while the other one (the one on the side with hose) moves easily.

Of course I exercised the 'sticky' one multiple times, cleaned it thoroughly, lubricated with oil - no effect. Even removed the piston completely (by pumping it totally out of the caliper) to clean it. Still it does not move even closely to the other one.

I think I might start a separate topic on this, as quick googling shoeed it's not a Campagnolo-specific problem. However, I have to admit I'm already so tired of this, that I almost start to regret removing fully functional Ultegra Di2 and putting Campagnolo Record on this bike. It is definitely more beautiful, but the amount of troubles almost kill the joy.

I'm just passing for the same issue. Sent my Orca OMX to my LBS trying to have this issue fixed but it seems to be impossible. Rubbing, rubbing rubbing. Nightmare.

[gorkypl]

Since writing this post I have sent back both callipers for warranty. Not sure what was done (I presume they changed the seals) but after they returned, pistons started moving much more evenly - not perfectly symmetric, but good enough.
I also don't try to follow Campy bleeding procedure anymore, omitting the last step. It works.
So, in my case, it was a combination of faulty callipers and bad Campy instructions. Once sorted out, the whole system works really nice.

[wilwil]

Im struggling with these brakes. I have the new design callipers.
The pistons will not push back on the front one.
I can not get rid of the air
Can not buy the red tool anywhere.
Ive spent a fortune on a frame, wheels and groupset that Im thinking of selling and taking a massive hit.
Are millions of cyclists riding round on disc brakes as happy as Larry because they all have Shimano?