Petty Weight Savings

[gramsqueen]

Hi,

I’m either running out of upradeable parts or can’t afford the grams/$ of my lower grade parts. I’ve resorted to thinking about the small and forgettable parts of the bike to upgrade for marginal gains.

I’ve already done Ti bottle cage bolts and skewers. I’m thinking about seat clamp 30mm, headset, bar tape, cables, and housing.

Any lightweight recommendations for these parts?

[sungod]

ti bottle cage bolts? al would be lighter

cables powercordz
housing nokon

[themidge]

ti bottle cage bolts? al would be lighter

Pffff, that's nothing, swap the bottom one out for nylon as well for true WWism.

[gramsqueen]

How about I carbon bond my cages on there.

Also is alligator ilink significantly heavier than nokon?

[rlpaul]

Alligator ilinks are lighter than Nokon. Source: I have a bajillion Nokons and have used ilinks.

Aican is even lighter, although ilinks are more affordable.

[bm0p700f]

down tube shifters are lighter and only a bit of housing is needed saving more weight. Cables are shorter too.

One chap on here drilled more holes in his rims.

[Klaster_1]

Today I've replaced my Cateye spoke magnet (2.6g) with a magnet fragment that was lying around (0.3g), glued it to the spoke with some weird very sticky two side tape. Looks kinda meh, but hey, it's 2.3g saved!

[kman]

Trim the ends of your bars. Trim seat post.

[Marin]

Lighter bar tape, stretched, only wrap past the bends.

[Marin]

Strip your saddle, there's padding in your bibs anyway!

[froze]

This one is very light and from reviews from owners they've been not only reliable but no bottle ejections, but still 5 grams makes me wonder, I think I would go with the 8 gram MTB HD version that's a bit more stout just to be safe, and besides 3 grams is nothing anyways. http://www.dream-bikes.it/shop/en/461-c ... -6-gr.html And the cages come with AL bolts that are also very light...BUT, I don't much care for AL or TI bolts, they are not structurally sound enough mostly due to there being so many different grades you don't know what you're getting. So in reality I would stay with stainless, you're not giving up much at all in weight, you're saving money, and may save you a headache of trying to extract a bolt out of your frame after it broke. Also with the above CF cage, as is true with all CF cages, you do need to make sure you torque it down to the manufacture's specs.

[Finx]

If you're using bar tape, you can't really call yourself a weight weenie. I mean, that stuff is HEAVY...

[themidge]

If you're using bar tape, you can't really call yourself a weight weenie. I mean, that stuff is HEAVY...

Is Tesa tape allowed? At 10-20 grams depending on handlebars and wrapping technique, plenty of super WW builds* have it.

*and mine, but that doesn't count as a WW build

[4ibanez]

No bar tape looks awful... go for perforated Deda I managed 29g IIRC. Or try Tesa if you have to have the lightest. My tesa tape job came out at 9g, wrapped with fairly little overlap on 42cm bars. But real bar tape is much nicer.

Nylon bolts for the bottle cages is fine, although they're usually phillips head and don't look too good unless you can source black ones. I went for carbon bolts for the cages, as I had some trouble with some very soft alu bolts I had to drill out once.

All fairly obvious, but how about things like chain, lockring, expander, dust cover/spacers, pedal axles, shifter clamps, chainrings/bolts, jockey wheels??? All relatively easy to replace yourself, and nothing outrageously expensive.

Making a spreadsheet with weights would be a good place to start.

[gramsqueen]

Right now I’m thinking mainly seatpost clamp and headset bearings, but I’m having trouble finding the right part.

I’m not sure what size bearings this bike uses and can’t find a really lightweight 30.0 mm clamp