Any SRM Origin owners in the house?

[BOXERCASS]

I've just gone for the SRM THM With Carbon Ti. Heard it was the best and Carbon Ti Chain ring has some great reviews also looks more aero even if it isn't. TBH my TT bike is now about as "blinged up" as I can make it (with exception of Lightweight Wheels), which are just ridiculous so stick with Enve 7.8 Front & Zipp rear.

[johnrho]

I've just gone for the SRM THM With Carbon Ti. Heard it was the best and Carbon Ti Chain ring has some great reviews also looks more aero even if it isn't. TBH my TT bike is now about as "blinged up" as I can make it (with exception of Lightweight Wheels), which are just ridiculous so stick with Enve 7.8 Front & Zipp rear.

The THM version is the lightest out of all the Origins




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[survivor]

Is there a way to check the rechargeable battery level on the SRM Origin? How do we know when the battery level is low?

[johnrho]

Is there a way to check the rechargeable battery level on the SRM Origin? How do we know when the battery level is low?

My PC8 has my battery’s status under Pairing->Powermeter. It’s not a percentage but rather New, Good, etc. Don’t really check it often as I’ve gone months without needing to charge it or get a low battery warning - come to think of it, not sure if the PC8 has that warning lol


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[pritchet74]

So it happened again during a grand fondo in Toronto grrr. I opened a SRM support case and he got back to me within an hour. It looks like the non-drive side arm torque specs are different for the THM arms. Here’s a pic of what the bolts I asked about and SRMs response.

SRM needs to get their act together. Below is the excerpt from their SRM Origin user guide for 24mm spindle:

• Unscrew the 3mm non-drive side crank pinch bolt and place a small drop of light thread locker (violet) on
the threads. Center barrel nuts in crank and torque to max. 4-5Nm (Fig.3.1). Ensure barrel nuts remain
centered in crank while torqueing 3mm pinch bolt.
• Tighten the 10mm left axle bolt counterclockwise (left-handed thread) with a torque of 5Nm (Fig.3.2).

http://www.srm.de/fileadmin/user_upload ... 4mm_EN.pdf

So which torque value is correct? grrr...

Late to the party on this one, but SRM has 2 versions of the Origin carbon arms. The original version that Look made in their French factory had a "clear" clear coat and the carbon weave is very visable - to me these look the best - well these have a 3mm pinch bolt as you quote above and those have a smaller torque setting. The latter version (current) are made in the Look factory in Tunisia and they have a darker clear coat and the arms look more "black" - the carbon weave is barely visable. These have a larger pinch bolt with a higher torque setting. The pinch bolt on my THM M3 arms have the the same pinch bolt as my newer Origin arms.

[johnrho]

I personally love the THM matte black arms more than the original Origin arms. Also the shape of the THM arms are more rounded than the boxy Origin arms.


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[Pinguin]

What is with "temperature compensation"on Srm Spiders these days
Are they now upgraded?
What i remember it works only when you stop pedaling or make a manual zero offset
But when i climb over an hour i dont stop pedaling and power output isnt real??

[pritchet74]

What is with "temperature compensation"on Srm Spiders these days
Are they now upgraded?
What i remember it works only when you stop pedaling or make a manual zero offset
But when i climb over an hour i dont stop pedaling and power output isnt real??

If you have a large temp change during the course of a ride then the zero offset might change a bit, but both the SRM PC8 and the Garmin headunits will update that during your ride when you are coasting, so it's not a concern. On my SRMs even a change in 10 degrees of temp doesn't change the power reading by much even if you don't have the zero offset updated. Maybe 1W.

[DanielNorway]

Does anyone have weight for SRM with Look-crankarms and DuraAce Chainrings? Is there any weightdifference between 24 and 30 mm axle?

[Lillee]

Hi guys, sorry off topic question: SRM origin non drive crank arm removal, does this need some sort of puller to get it off? I have removed the pinch bolt, the large 10mm bolt, but the crank arm is not self extracting and the thread is on the inside of the 24mm spindle so a normal crank extractor tool won't work? Crank arm doesn't seem to budge away from the reducer?

[micky]

Use your hands and gently move it outward; with a little patience it comes out.

[itsacarr]

The arm can get a little stuck on that reducer.

[Lillee]

Thanks for replies. It will definitely not come out by hand! I have tried several ways (without resorting to mallet as per warnings in the manual against using a hammer!) it is really stuck on... 2 hrs of tinkering and I think I have to resort to using a jaw type puller to get it off... Ive even have tried levering it against the frame with a long piece of wood

Next step is to take it to LBS but I fail to see how even they can get this off without a jaw type puller similar to that used for Campagnolo ultra torque crankset?

[itsacarr]

Worst case scenario you can get it out with a screwdriver and it will deform it or it can crack. It's easily replaced at least. I do wish they made arms that natively fit the 24m spindle but I understand that's a difficult proposition.

[Lillee]

Thanks itsacarr... it's a brand new crank arm...

I just want to confirm that there is no other safety mechanism holding the crank on? Just pinch bolt and large 10mm end cap bolt (5nm one)?