100cm GT and 175cm tall means you are quite long legged. That means you will need slightly smaller frames/stems and rather tall looking seats. Optimal crank length is ~170mm. (172.5 is ok, maybe feels better)
If you have a slightly smaller frame then that's a good start. Problem is the head tube. If its short like under 12cm then you will be very uncomfortable with a slammed stem.
The seat fore/aft should be set without regard of your bars. There is a sweet spot area. Then the stem/spacers should be put to accomodate your hand position.
WW Bike Fit
Moderator: robbosmans
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gramsqueen
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 5:15 am
I’m pretty stretched out with my hands on the hoods right now. I had a 52cm Scott before which had a very short top tube compared to this size 54 cannondale. Also slammed the bar drop was a good 6-7cm on the Scott
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TobinHatesYou
- Posts: 12550
- Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm
Your new bike probably has 10mm more reach and 15mm less stack. Get a professional fit.
TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Tue Aug 07, 2018 9:34 pmYour new bike probably has 10mm more reach and 15mm less stack. Get a professional fit.
Tobin. That's what it sounded like he should've done 10 posts back. He sounds so far off a good fit, but then again he should be all the wiser from all the advice he has had.Less is more.
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gramsqueen
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 5:15 am
The top tube of my cannondale is 1.7cm longer than the one on my 52cm Scott.
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TobinHatesYou
- Posts: 12550
- Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm
Reach and stack are the important measurements.
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gramsqueen
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 5:15 am
The 54 cdale compared to the Scott cr1 pro is 6mm higher stack
8mm longer reach
Sizing down to a 52 cannondale would achieve 2mm longer reach and 11mm lower stack
The head tube already at a more aggressive angle than the Scott would also be 5mm shorter
8mm longer reach
Sizing down to a 52 cannondale would achieve 2mm longer reach and 11mm lower stack
The head tube already at a more aggressive angle than the Scott would also be 5mm shorter
How about a 90mm stem to erase that reach difference? Listen to your body first though because the numbers might not be accurate. If something feels wrong it might be wrong.
If you want the bars lower to erase the stack difference you could choose a -17 degree stem if yours is -7 degree.
There are many options. Also check that you havent changed the angle of the bars or shifters because that will influence the fit.
/a
If you want the bars lower to erase the stack difference you could choose a -17 degree stem if yours is -7 degree.
There are many options. Also check that you havent changed the angle of the bars or shifters because that will influence the fit.
/a
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gramsqueen
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2018 5:15 am
I'm happy with where the bars are but yes it seems I could use a 90mm stem to fix the reach problem. I'm gonna sit back on the saddle my next ride and try to get used to the longer reach.
The scott I had was before a year hiatus. I'm coming from my friend's 90s Trek with 40cm bars and tiny brake levers compared to my modern shifters now so I just might need to get my body used to the different contact points
The scott I had was before a year hiatus. I'm coming from my friend's 90s Trek with 40cm bars and tiny brake levers compared to my modern shifters now so I just might need to get my body used to the different contact points
