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ylwgto
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- Location: NYC
by ylwgto on Tue Jul 31, 2018 8:01 pm
2old4this wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 4:45 pm
ylwgto wrote: ↑Mon Jul 30, 2018 9:36 pm
anyone know of a "drop bolt", like the one pictured, that I could use to relocate caliper upward a bit?
I think everything is contributing a little bit but the main issue is too low brake bridge. You can use a different tire and hope to get some clearance but that is iffy, given the tire in your picture is not inflated yet.
Try using something like this
https://www.amazon.com/EEbrake-silver-e ... B01MTBA1DJ
yes, I think i can make those work, but $70!
The bridge is too low to accommodate any bigger than 25c I think, but I can live with that.
Thanks all, I'll post a pic once resolved.
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shimmeD
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by shimmeD on Tue Jul 31, 2018 10:09 pm
The TriRig Omega has up-down adjustment so might have enough for your case. Let me know if your EE thingamijig trial doesn't work out, and I can measure out etc and even sell you one or both of my brakes that are not in use.
Less is more.
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ylwgto
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by ylwgto on Tue Jul 31, 2018 10:32 pm
shimmeD wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 10:09 pm
The TriRig Omega has up-down adjustment so might have enough for your case. Let me know if your EE thingamijig trial doesn't work out, and I can measure out etc and even sell you one or both of my brakes that are not in use.
Thanks, had a look at those. assuming they are the first generation ones, they do seem to have a fair amount of up-down adjustability which may work.
How do they actually brake? I've used Delta's in the past on a retro build, which were awful. Curious as to the stopping power of these.
Perhaps PM me with asking price. I'd definitely only use the rear if it worked, but may be interested in the pair if the price is ok and I can get past the clash looks-wise
appreciate it!
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shimmeD
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by shimmeD on Tue Jul 31, 2018 11:32 pm
Yes, 1st gen are not powerful. Been used in the rear by some pro tour team(s) not so long ago. I did use it as a front brake just because it's aero, weightweenie-worthy and looks good. Mine look old and used but definitely in working condition. I've only just removed it from the under-chainstays rear, moved an EE from the front and replaced that with a new Potenza. I'm not looking at cost recovery but rather helping someone out, so open to any offer (you can go to New Zealand Post website to get cost of postage to your place); they were like USD175 each. Just let me know and I'll be happy to help out. In the meantime I'll do some measurements: perhaps you can measure the distance between your centre of brake bolt hole to the top of your rim, and also centre of bolt hole to bottom edge of brake bridge.
Less is more.
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shimmeD
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by shimmeD on Wed Aug 01, 2018 4:47 am
My EE is also of the older gen and you know that eccentric means that only at either extreme 'height' setting is the brake centred, but not in between. Same goes for the EE thingamijig, so might not work for you.
English has made quite a few frames with Omega brakes front and rear, so you can pop on to his website for a look-see.
Less is more.
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ylwgto
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- Location: NYC
by ylwgto on Wed Aug 01, 2018 2:44 pm
shimmeD wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 11:32 pm
Yes, 1st gen are not powerful. Been used in the rear by some pro tour team(s) not so long ago. I did use it as a front brake just because it's aero, weightweenie-worthy and looks good. Mine look old and used but definitely in working condition. I've only just removed it from the under-chainstays rear, moved an EE from the front and replaced that with a new Potenza. I'm not looking at cost recovery but rather helping someone out, so open to any offer (you can go to New Zealand Post website to get cost of postage to your place); they were like USD175 each. Just let me know and I'll be happy to help out. In the meantime I'll do some measurements: perhaps you can measure the distance between your centre of brake bolt hole to the top of your rim, and also centre of bolt hole to bottom edge of brake bridge.
appreciate the offer, thanks. i think shipping from NZ will be cost prohobitive though
thanks for info on EE, sounds like those may not work out.
I forgot how wonderful English bikes are, wow. thanks for reminding me.
I'll holler if the Omegas are the way I go.
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shimmeD
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by shimmeD on Wed Aug 01, 2018 9:08 pm
Don't jump to the conclusion so quickly: if I knew where you are I'd looked it up for you.
From the bolt centre it's 10mm down and a little less than 30mm to the top edge of the brake pads. If that works, you may prefer to buy locally or from TriRig, so suit yourself.
Less is more.
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ylwgto
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by ylwgto on Wed Aug 01, 2018 10:14 pm
NYC.
thanks for the measures. going to go the bracket-attempt route first so as to try and use my existing calipers (and I need the bike operational ASAP), but if willing let me know what you want for your calipers and what postage from NZ to NYC may be. the 1st gen pairs seem to go for under $80 on flea-bay
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ylwgto
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by ylwgto on Thu Aug 16, 2018 3:54 pm
So, at 80psi the Conti 25c tires contact the caliper, but there is ample room between the top of the tire and the brake bridge. I've been told Contis run fat and tall, so I ordered some Vittoria Corsa G+ 25c clinchers, that are purportedly 1mm skinnier and ~1.5mm shorter than the Contis. That will still likely be too close for the caliper.
So, anyone know if any mainstream calipers have even slightly better tire height clearance than Campy SR 11 single pivot? Would a dual pivot rear have better clearance? I want to avoid buying high dollar calipers (although they are sweet) like Zero G and some of the others suggested above.
Thanks
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AJS914
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by AJS914 on Thu Aug 16, 2018 4:18 pm
Calnago has posted about the current Chorus caliper having a little bit more room. You can also install a washer between the caliper and the brake bridge which will push the caliper away from the frame and create a little more clearance.
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Calnago
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by Calnago on Thu Aug 16, 2018 4:34 pm
That’s true, but in this case the root cause is that the bridge is simply too low on the frame. The OP has stated that even the brake pads have to be jammed to the top of the slots to make contact with the brake track. He could try the newer Chorus Calipers, or even the latest brakes that go with the new 12sp stuff, but in the end it’s the low brake bridge that is really the issue here. I suppose I didn’t want to recommend a “possible” solution (and not really cheap) that in the end still might not work.
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bilwit
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by bilwit on Thu Aug 16, 2018 5:20 pm
I think the drop bolt used upside down is clearly the best solution. $70 is nothing compared to the alternative of a $300 EE caliper or getting a different frame that actually works for your purposes..
actually had no idea EE (or anyone) still made those.. handy little thing I could have used for a long reach frame I had until a bit ago
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shimmeD
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by shimmeD on Thu Aug 16, 2018 10:24 pm
I have given measurements on the TriRig, but the OP has not responded if it will work, $80 vs $70 for the bracket. The bracket might not work as it might move the brake too high so that the pads do not contact the rim. Potenza brakes (set of front & rear) are cheaper yet; I'll measure it up for the OP. What about letting us know the measurement from the centre of the brake bolt to the top of the Conti tyre (like adding a ruler to the pic)?
Less is more.