BB removal after loctite has been used

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Calnago
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by Calnago

@Hambini: yes, all that is fine but it has nothing to do with the OP's campy pressfit ultratorque installation. If you have something that can be used with all frames to pull pressfit Campy cups out, I'd like to see it. In the meantime I do just fine with various headset removal tools with the prongs bent to fit the exact edges of the cups I'm working with.

Just for grins, here's my aresenal of BB pulling/press tools. There's actually more but theyre more related to wheel bearings and things, although some of them get mixed and matched for best use...
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The Park BB30 tool in mid right of the picture with the blue drifts and "hook" at the end does the equivalent of what your tool in the video does. But it is useless for Campy ultratorque cups. And that chunky tool in the lower right does what your puller is doing, slow and steady, with an assortment of expanding collets depending on the size of the bearings you're working with. It's also good for removing bearings from cups with pre pressed bearings already in them such as the FSA Mega Exo BB's. Yup, I do miss the good old threaded bottom bracket days for sure.

For Campy Ultratorque Pressfit cup removal, the best tool I've found is the Park RT-1 with the prongs bent so that they fit perfectly into the cup edges and essentially allows for one good whack and the cup is out... easy peasy, no damage. It is the second of the three pronged tools in the upper part of the picture above. Here it is fitted into a Campy PF30 Ultratorque cup...
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One sharp blow and it knocks it right out.

Now, for pressing in the cups, I've found no better tool that the actual Campy BB tool for their cups....
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The whole tool is heavy with no play, and the drifts are thick and take up the entire inner surface of the cups. Using this tool gives me the utmost confidence that the cups are being pressed in squarely and aligned, even if the outer surfaces of the shell are slightly less than perfect.

And this final pic basically shows a side view of one of the press drifts fitted into what would be the cups outer surface just to show how deep the drifts are (actual use would have the two cups on each side of the BB shell and the press going through the center with the drifts in each cup, pressing them both in simultaneously, square and aligned), and the removal tool on the right side fitted into what would the be internal surface of the cup if it were actaully installed...
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And Campy EPS pressfit applications are another joy in themselves, since in order to get access to the inner ridges of the cups for removal, you essentially have to destroy the plastic protective sleeve that gets installed when you initially pressed in the cups.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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Calnago
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by Calnago

So @toastie, good job and a well deserved beer is certainly in order. Re the internal bearing puller, was it one of the types with an expanding collet, and did you just expand it against the lip on the cups that hold the seals in? Were they Campy PF30 cups are an after market BB?
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

hambini
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by hambini

I don't think you've understood at all. It will work for any frame, only the sleeve and the puller need to be made for campy dimensions.

Hambini
Hambini Aeronautical Engineer, Polluting YouTube since 2016 - views expressed are my own...

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Maybe I don’t understand... So you have to “make” the sleeve and the puller? Isn’t that the point of purchasing a tool, so you don’t have to make it? Do you have a puller and a sleeve that will work on Campy pressfit cups, be they PF30, 386, or whatever? Maybe a picture would help. Because all I see is a bearing puller for BB30 bearings. I’m trying to visualize a “sleeve” that would even fit over some of the Campy cup/frame combinations I’ve seen, let alone without damaging the finish.
Have you got a picture of your Campy cup sleeve and puller combo. That would help greatly.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

hambini
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Location: Cologne, Germany

by hambini

The principle of cup removal is the same irrespective of type, the difference is the size. eg BB30 is 42mm, BB86 is 41mm and PF30 is 46mm.

I make removal tools for BB30 and generally speaking they are well regarded. If I used the campy size which would be a 37mm puller and 52mm ID sleeve, that too would pull the campy cup out.
Hambini Aeronautical Engineer, Polluting YouTube since 2016 - views expressed are my own...

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Calnago
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by Calnago

I know the principle very well. I’d just like to see your puller and sleeve for a Campy Pressfit Cup, any one of them, but let’s say a BB86, since that’s the one I’m most interested in. I’m especially interested in seeing the puller and the process you use to get it seated properly.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

toastie
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by toastie

Calnago wrote:So @toastie, good job and a well deserved beer is certainly in order. Re the internal bearing puller, was it one of the types with an expanding collet, and did you just expand it against the lip on the cups that hold the seals in? Were they Campy PF30 cups are an after market BB?

Thanks very much.
Yes exactly that, it’s an automotive type puller with an expanding collet, I have various sizes starting at 8mm which are ideal for wheel/freehub bearings etc. I just expanded it inside the PF Campagnolo cup, heated the whole assembly with an electric heat gun inserted in the BB on the opposite side and used the slide hammer to extract it. I’ve attached a couple of pictures of all the parts I used.

ImageImageImage

Hope this helps and if you need any more just shout

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