Cleat Adjustment
Moderator: robbosmans
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It is difficult to diagnose from a statement like, “the pain,” but a cleat thatvis too far forward can definitely cause issues.
- wheelsONfire
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Check:
Inside sole (hot spot due to pressure), shoe to tight over widest part of foot and cleat position
I have tried different insoles, and placed cleat and angle different due to this.
Why do you have the cleats different (Left/right foot)?
Inside sole (hot spot due to pressure), shoe to tight over widest part of foot and cleat position
I have tried different insoles, and placed cleat and angle different due to this.
Why do you have the cleats different (Left/right foot)?
Bikes:
Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.
Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.
I didn’t put them on. Mechanic at LBS decided to help with pedals so he just put the cleat on the shoe too. I didn’t check until recently because I didn’t assume any wrongdoing.wheelsONfire wrote: ↑Thu Jul 26, 2018 10:37 amCheck:
Inside sole (hot spot due to pressure), shoe to tight over widest part of foot and cleat position
I have tried different insoles, and placed cleat and angle different due to this.
Why do you have the cleats different (Left/right foot)?
Was just asking how cleat positioning could play into foot pain since I'm not a podiatrist but thanks for the advice, was really helpful!
It's really not something you need to ask on a forum.
It's covered extensively on *every* bike fitting website and hopefully most pedal manufacturers websites.
It's also an issue that's as old as the invention of toeclips, straps and cleats. I'd not be surprised if the first cleat alignment guide was written on parchment with a quill using Indian ink.
I'd also find a new mechanic, your current one sounds like something out of a horror movie.
It's covered extensively on *every* bike fitting website and hopefully most pedal manufacturers websites.
It's also an issue that's as old as the invention of toeclips, straps and cleats. I'd not be surprised if the first cleat alignment guide was written on parchment with a quill using Indian ink.
I'd also find a new mechanic, your current one sounds like something out of a horror movie.
The placement of the cleats is probably the most-personal of all the fit adjustments. a few milimetres of error can cause dehabilitating injuries.
I learned to place cleats in my early teens by guys from the 'old' country. Back then, we rode leather-soled shoes that were fastened to the pedals by toeclips and straps. We would ride without cleats on to allow the feet to 'find' their natural position and then mark and nail the cleats on. I have not moved my cleats since then and have never had any knee or foot problems, etc. that seem to plague others. I won a pair of Look pedals and shoes in a criterium when they were first introduced and have used Look pedals with the non-adjustable 'black' cleats ever since. I use the 20nm versions. Most of the guys that I know who are still racing use a similar, no-float set-up.
Today, when I get a new pair of shoes, I start by mounting the cleats just tightly enough to allow them to 'move' into position. After a short ride, and notwithstanding the fact that the cleat will shift when you clip-out, the underside of the shoe should be 'marked' by the underside of the cleat. Reposition the cleat to where the underside of the shoe is marked, tighten the cleat and test them again. Bring an Allen key with you for the first few rides to adjust as necessary.
Good luck. Be patient to get it perfect and you will have a lifetime of healthy riding.
I learned to place cleats in my early teens by guys from the 'old' country. Back then, we rode leather-soled shoes that were fastened to the pedals by toeclips and straps. We would ride without cleats on to allow the feet to 'find' their natural position and then mark and nail the cleats on. I have not moved my cleats since then and have never had any knee or foot problems, etc. that seem to plague others. I won a pair of Look pedals and shoes in a criterium when they were first introduced and have used Look pedals with the non-adjustable 'black' cleats ever since. I use the 20nm versions. Most of the guys that I know who are still racing use a similar, no-float set-up.
Today, when I get a new pair of shoes, I start by mounting the cleats just tightly enough to allow them to 'move' into position. After a short ride, and notwithstanding the fact that the cleat will shift when you clip-out, the underside of the shoe should be 'marked' by the underside of the cleat. Reposition the cleat to where the underside of the shoe is marked, tighten the cleat and test them again. Bring an Allen key with you for the first few rides to adjust as necessary.
Good luck. Be patient to get it perfect and you will have a lifetime of healthy riding.
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