It seems I completely misunderstood what you meant earlier. I thought you were talking about limit adjustment and cable tension. I'll check the alignment as you've described.alcatraz wrote: ↑Wed Jul 18, 2018 12:39 amI wrote to you about checking the hanger.
You can use the eyeballing method I mentioned, but make sure you check from behind the bike and from under the bike with it flipped upside down.
In two planes. Look only at the upper derailleur pulley. It needs to be perfectly parallel with the cassette.
When you tighten your rear wheel skewer you can change the hanger angle. Make sure your pressure is consistent, then do the checks and indexing adjustment, hanger adjustments. Also make sure the wheel is deep in the dropout before tightening the skewer. It will affect shifting because the cassette can change it's angle to the derailleur.
If you are reusing a shimano chain is it possible you've shortened it the second time and put a quick link on? Noise can occur when the chain tension is high. (The B-screw on the derailleur should not really be used for chain tension adjustment but to make sure the upper derailleur pulley is the right distance from the cassette. Set that screw low enough so that you don't have clearance issues on the big cogs. If the chain is too long and touches in small/small you should maybe take a link out. Depends on how much you were off with the B-screw.)
When the wheel is off you can try to feel if your wheel bearings are gritty. It's possible your freehub bearings aren't ok, or properly preloaded so when the chain pulls on the end of the cassette it rattles or moves around a bit. Play should be zero. But you checked that.. just saying it could be likely.
My chain came with the "old" connector pin rather than the quick link. It is, however, exactly the length it was before. As for the freehub, I did give the cassette a good wiggle when I checked for play and it seemed just fine. I'll check again.
Thank you so much for your detailed response! Apologies for not understand you earlier.