Look 795 Blade

[bearapy]

Thanks. Will try this on the next attempt, with no plastic spacer. I guess that might do the trick as Pro also don't use any spacers.
Any thoughts regarding which is the right model, if I would like to use the tool with a shaft, to remove the bottom bracket?
Still dont understand, if Blade is using TF38624, how will tool with 30mm shaft fit?
https://www.merlincycles.com/token-ninj ... 26617.html

30mm


24mm

If you look at the manual, the 30mm tool is correct. The bb uses spacers to fit 24mm axle so presumably you install using the 30mm tool before fitting the spacers.

https://www.tokenproducts.com/images/BB ... 190212.pdf

[tomyboy123]

If you look at the manual, the 30mm tool is correct. The bb uses spacers to fit 24mm axle so presumably you install using the 30mm tool before fitting the spacers.
https://www.tokenproducts.com/images/BB ... 190212.pdf

Well I got the same answer from a seller of this tool, but this is clearly not the case here or this is different model of the bottom bracket, which I dont see?
The side cover has the same 24mm inner diameter as the berings.

[Suppersppy]

Are there directions somewhere for the mavic speed release system?

[Suppersppy]

I'm completely stumped with the thru axle. You slide it in and it hits when it gets to the moving collar thing. Any help is appreciated.

[Suppersppy]

And I feel dumb now. The answer is to hit it and it'll go in!

[Junior Varsity]

I'm thinking about the Goodyear eagle 30mm. There aren't a ton of 30mm tubeless options out there. What I've been looking for is something that claims to not need sealant, even though I'll run sealant, and strikes a reasonable balance between race tires and winter tires.

What I can tell you is that we designed the tire carcass to hold air as well as a tube type clincher fitted with a latex tube not using sealant. However, there is such a variablity in rim, tape and valves out there that I would 100% use sealant as it's also a great level of puncture protection.

As a reference, the 30mm Eagle All-Season was designed around a rim section width of 21mm. The 28mm All-Season was designed around a inner rim of 19mm so on a 21mm rim, it will be roughly 28.8mm at full PSI at 24hrs.

The main difference is the tire profile as we optimize the tread cap based on the tire's section width mounted on the designed for rim inner width.

[Suppersppy]

We should connect. You can find me via cycletechreview.com, pm me here, or josh_ross on Twitter.

[Suppersppy]

I'm not sure how many people this ould actually affect but the vision metron 55sl disc isn't actually compatible with the Look frame. The front axle has a very tiny shelf that interferes with the little shelf above the axle hole on the non disc side of the fork. It seems like it's fine but when you tighten the axle the wheel will shift down slightly so as to be at an angle in the fork. I'm having it machined to remove the small shelf on the axle. It's not a part of the functionality of the axle and it's very slight but it does require an extra step, extra money, and someone with a lathe who's willing to do it.

[Suppersppy]

Ready to ride, with bottle cages and computer mount, my build comes out at 18lbs exactly.

[Applesoap]

Ready to ride, with bottle cages and computer mount, my build comes out at 18lbs exactly.

We need pictures and a bill of materials!

[Suppersppy]

I saw your reply but I was waiting because I knew this video was coming out. Lots of details and visuals of the bike - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNXW-Ay ... ture=share

I just got the headset adjusted first time post build. It was quite loose but that's not unusual after a brand new build. I'll have to see what happens with it now.

Some notes on it's ability to climb: My other bike feels a lot more like a climbers bike. It's very stiff, a couple of pounds lighter, and it just seems like it climbs better. A frame is not a bike though and when coupled with the extended range of the new SRAM AXS groupset the Look climbs at least as well as my Fuji. The Fuji has a 12-29 with a compact up front (34/29 easiest gear) while the Look has a 46/33 upfront with a 10-33 (33/33 easiest gear) in the rear.

I said it in the video but the build is: Vision Metron 55SL wheels, schawble pro one tires, Look Keo pedals (the base version because they are available in white), Velo Angel Glide saddle, Look aero handlebars, and Look carbon bottle cages.

[Applesoap]

I saw your reply but I was waiting because I knew this video was coming out. Lots of details and visuals of the bike - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNXW-Ay ... ture=share

I just got the headset adjusted first time post build. It was quite loose but that's not unusual after a brand new build. I'll have to see what happens with it now.

Some notes on it's ability to climb: My other bike feels a lot more like a climbers bike. It's very stiff, a couple of pounds lighter, and it just seems like it climbs better. A frame is not a bike though and when coupled with the extended range of the new SRAM AXS groupset the Look climbs at least as well as my Fuji. The Fuji has a 12-29 with a compact up front (34/29 easiest gear) while the Look has a 46/33 upfront with a 10-33 (33/33 easiest gear) in the rear.

I said it in the video but the build is: Vision Metron 55SL wheels, schawble pro one tires, Look Keo pedals (the base version because they are available in white), Velo Angel Glide saddle, Look aero handlebars, and Look carbon bottle cages.

Regarding the headset I posted some tips earlier, you really got to get that top cap to compress the spacers down before tightening the stem.

I also have a question regarding SRAM AXS comparability. With my Dura Ace groupset and riding in biggie smalls the chain comes awfully close to rubbing the frame, is their any issues with a 10 tooth sprocket?

[Suppersppy]

No issues with the 10 tooth although I rarely actually go into the 10 tooth.

[Calnago]

I also have a question regarding SRAM AXS comparability. With my Dura Ace groupset and riding in biggie smalls the chain comes awfully close to rubbing the frame, is their any issues with a 10 tooth sprocket?

On some frames there certainly could be. For instance, on my Koppenberg, with its pretty massive chainstays and BB drop of 75mm, pretty sure a 10 tooth sprocket would be a no go. I haven’t tried it and never will, due simply to the inefficiencies such as minimal chain wrap, so few teeth being actually engaged, increased wear rate (main reason SRAM increased the roller diameter of their chain), etc. On the road, I really appreciate smooth, quiet running drive trains, and cogs that small do not help that cause.

[jlok]

Calnago... pls... ppl are asking if the frame would clear 10T but not your opinion on why YOU don't want it...