One thing I dislike with disc brakes

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joejack951
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by joejack951

JScycle wrote:
Thu Jul 12, 2018 12:31 am
LeMomo wrote:
Wed Jul 11, 2018 9:02 pm
Sadly the spacing trick doesn’t work with centrelock rotors!
I can't remember where but I saw some centrelock microspacers
November Cycles.

I posted the following in another thread on the same topic:

Diameter over the centerlock splines is 35.5mm and the rotor to hub mating surface is right around 40mm on my Icetech rotors. If you can get it over the splines, a 40mm OD by 34mm ID shim would stay nice and concentric based on my hubs' dimensions

Since you are in the US, check out www.mcmaster.com, they sell a 45mm OD x 35mm ID shim which ought to work. They have 0.1mm to 1mm thick options.

jlok
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by jlok

I filed the 6-bolt to centerlock adaptor a bit to fit. Maybe it works with centerlock rotor as well.
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SilentDrone
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by SilentDrone

kdawg wrote:....I find if I remove my wheel to put it in the car or something I have to fiddle about to get rid of some minor rub.
This! But I can’t for the life of me understand why this is the case. It doesn’t happen when I remove the skew to load my mtb with xtr brakes into my car. But my dura ace 9120 it seems to move ever so slightly. Weird.



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kafreeman
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by kafreeman

joejack951 wrote:
November Cycles.

I posted the following in another thread on the same topic:

Diameter over the centerlock splines is 35.5mm and the rotor to hub mating surface is right around 40mm on my Icetech rotors. If you can get it over the splines, a 40mm OD by 34mm ID shim would stay nice and concentric based on my hubs' dimensions

Since you are in the US, check out www.mcmaster.com, they sell a 45mm OD x 35mm ID shim which ought to work. They have 0.1mm to 1mm thick options.
I have a set of 2014 Reynolds Assaults I got at firesale price last year. I had to hit the inside of the shim from McMaster with a dremel to get them over the centerlock splines.

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NickJHP
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by NickJHP

LeMomo wrote:
Wed Jul 11, 2018 9:02 pm
Sadly the spacing trick doesn’t work with centrelock rotors!
Use a centrelock to six bolt adapter and a six bolt rotor. You can then use shims to get both rotors at exactly the same position. Wheelsmfg sell 0.2mm rotor shims: https://wheelsmfg.com/products/shims-re ... shims.html.

JScycle
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by JScycle

NickJHP wrote:
Tue Jul 31, 2018 6:23 am
LeMomo wrote:
Wed Jul 11, 2018 9:02 pm
Sadly the spacing trick doesn’t work with centrelock rotors!
Use a centrelock to six bolt adapter and a six bolt rotor. You can then use shims to get both rotors at exactly the same position. Wheelsmfg sell 0.2mm rotor shims: https://wheelsmfg.com/products/shims-re ... shims.html.
I disagree. I think it's best to shop around for some centrelock shims.
They are light than an adapter anyway and this is WW

GlacialPace
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by GlacialPace

Another possible problem is worn discs that are thinner, this can cause issues with multiple wheelsets. Not sure about road discs but Shimano MTB ice tech rotors wear out pretty fast (can be done in a season if you ride steep stuff a lot) I imagine road discs are simillar though maybe don't get the same level of abuse so may last a bit longer.

RichTheRoadie
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by RichTheRoadie

SilentDrone wrote:
Thu Jul 12, 2018 3:46 am
kdawg wrote:....I find if I remove my wheel to put it in the car or something I have to fiddle about to get rid of some minor rub.
This! But I can’t for the life of me understand why this is the case. It doesn’t happen when I remove the skew to load my mtb with xtr brakes into my car. But my dura ace 9120 it seems to move ever so slightly. Weird.
Tightness of the thru-axle would be my guess - minor changes make a big difference.

Grab your TA and tighten or loosen it by a fraction of a turn - I bet you get rubbing?

TobinHatesYou
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by TobinHatesYou

Not just thru-axle tightness...wheels can get cocked with TAs believe it or not

RyanH
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by RyanH

Yeah, as mentioned, consistently torquing the thru axle to the same spec helps alleviate the issue. It doesn't have to be exact but I noticed if I don't torque it down enough it will rub.

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LeDuke
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by LeDuke

RyanH wrote:Yeah, as mentioned, consistently torquing the thru axle to the same spec helps alleviate the issue. It doesn't have to be exact but I noticed if I don't torque it down enough it will rub.
A small dot of paint or a slight file mark on the TA help. As in, dot at 6 o’clock = properly tightened.


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spdntrxi
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by spdntrxi

LeDuke wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 7:55 pm
RyanH wrote:Yeah, as mentioned, consistently torquing the thru axle to the same spec helps alleviate the issue. It doesn't have to be exact but I noticed if I don't torque it down enough it will rub.
A small dot of paint or a slight file mark on the TA help. As in, dot at 6 o’clock = properly tightened.


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like that ideal.. will use it
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TonyM
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by TonyM

LeDuke wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 7:55 pm
RyanH wrote:Yeah, as mentioned, consistently torquing the thru axle to the same spec helps alleviate the issue. It doesn't have to be exact but I noticed if I don't torque it down enough it will rub.
A small dot of paint or a slight file mark on the TA help. As in, dot at 6 o’clock = properly tightened.


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Great tip! :thumbup: Will do it on my bikes!

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TonyM
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by TonyM

BTW how do you torque the rear TA to the correct N.m value? (mine has a lever attached and I can't use a torque ratchet)

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LeDuke
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by LeDuke

TonyM wrote:BTW how do you torque the rear TA to the correct N.m value? (mine has a lever attached and I can't use a torque ratchet)
Not sure. I use bolt-on TAs.

Half the weight of most lever operated TAs.




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