Shifting di2
Moderator: robbosmans
I have for several years di2 6870. The latest months the rear derailleur shifts by itself. He is adjusted how it should be. He shifts on my bike stands from the 28 cog to the 25 cog, it's not that the problem is on the adjustment because I can see on my Garmin he shift from cog 1 to 2. On a ride he does that also from the 6cog to the 5. What could be the problem?
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I have re alignment the rear derailleur a couple of times but it won't help the problem. I checked the Low limit screw also en turned that the derailleur can go a little more to the spokes but that didn't help.
I noticed on the garmin that there is a shift, I can see on it that the gear goes from 1 to 2 and also form 6 to 5. I think if the shifting is of a bad setup, the shift is actual vissible on the garmin.
I looked on the web and there are a lot of problems with di2 ghost shifting
I noticed on the garmin that there is a shift, I can see on it that the gear goes from 1 to 2 and also form 6 to 5. I think if the shifting is of a bad setup, the shift is actual vissible on the garmin.
I looked on the web and there are a lot of problems with di2 ghost shifting
Usually the kind of ghost shifting you report in Di2 is related to problems at the encoder. The encoder is the part of the servo unit that reads its position and sends feedback to the CPU (the “brain” of the system)
I have also come across a some cases with the same symptoms as yours in which the problem was the current meter giving false readouts. That makes the system shift to avoid an overload and in case of a persisting high read out, to shut down the derailleur.
If the problem is the encoder the only solution is to buy another RD. We have repaired some RD’s for fun but is always unreliable, specially towards moisture.
If the problem is a wrong current readout you can try changing battery. Sometimes a bad battery gives fast current spikes that make it to the RD.
Di2 works fine but can be a bitch to live with.
I have also come across a some cases with the same symptoms as yours in which the problem was the current meter giving false readouts. That makes the system shift to avoid an overload and in case of a persisting high read out, to shut down the derailleur.
If the problem is the encoder the only solution is to buy another RD. We have repaired some RD’s for fun but is always unreliable, specially towards moisture.
If the problem is a wrong current readout you can try changing battery. Sometimes a bad battery gives fast current spikes that make it to the RD.
Di2 works fine but can be a bitch to live with.
Thanks, how can I decied it is the encoder or a wrong readout?XCProMD wrote: ↑Mon Jul 09, 2018 10:33 amUsually the kind of ghost shifting you report in Di2 is related to problems at the encoder. The encoder is the part of the servo unit that reads its position and sends feedback to the CPU (the “brain” of the system)
I have also come across a some cases with the same symptoms as yours in which the problem was the current meter giving false readouts. That makes the system shift to avoid an overload and in case of a persisting high read out, to shut down the derailleur.
If the problem is the encoder the only solution is to buy another RD. We have repaired some RD’s for fun but is always unreliable, specially towards moisture.
If the problem is a wrong current readout you can try changing battery. Sometimes a bad battery gives fast current spikes that make it to the RD.
Di2 works fine but can be a bitch to live with.
Take your bike to a Shimano dealer that has a PCE interface so they can diagnose your system. Most likely they will tell you everything is fine but it’s worth the try.
Shouldn’t they find anything wrong try with another battery from a system that is working correctly and check if if solves the problem.
Check also every connection, make sure that everything is properly plug together, ie no loose connections.
If none of the above helps then most likely you have a nice toast RD. We used to have a bucket full of them.
Shouldn’t they find anything wrong try with another battery from a system that is working correctly and check if if solves the problem.
Check also every connection, make sure that everything is properly plug together, ie no loose connections.
If none of the above helps then most likely you have a nice toast RD. We used to have a bucket full of them.
Today I went to the lbs and the firmaware was already up to date and the systom didn't give any fault caudes.
He called Shimano, and they never heard of this problem before. They suggested to change the shiftlevers and see if that helps, so not change the rear derailleur.
He called Shimano, and they never heard of this problem before. They suggested to change the shiftlevers and see if that helps, so not change the rear derailleur.
Whenever I see threads like this, or in real life, my first instinct is to say... “just turn the adjuster a quarter turn to tighten/loosen the cable”. It’s usually not received very well. Point being... don’t always trust your instinct.
Seriously though, this is probably the main issue I have with electric systems. They work, when they work. But when they don’t, it can be extremely frustrating.
Seriously though, this is probably the main issue I have with electric systems. They work, when they work. But when they don’t, it can be extremely frustrating.
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I’ve read so many comments on here saying that Di2 is preferable to mechanical precisely because you can set it and forget it, no mechanical skill or maintenance is required.... #notexactlycorrectCalnago wrote:Whenever I see threads like this, or in real life, my first instinct is to say... “just turn the adjuster a quarter turn to tighten/loosen the cable”. It’s usually not received very well. Point being... don’t always trust your instinct.
Seriously though, this is probably the main issue I have with electric systems. They work, when they work. But when they don’t, it can be extremely frustrating.
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If someone has zero mechanical skill, or just no desire to ever want to touch a screwdriver, then I’d say go electric and try to remember to plug it in every now and then. I say that because if they have zero aptitude or desire for working on their bikes, then they’re going to be relying on someone else regardless of whether it’s electric or mechanical. And electric, once set up right, really is kind of a set it and forget it thing. You push a button or two, and it does a thing or two. The same way, every time. That’s fine. But it’s soulless. I love shifting a well tuned mechanical system and that feeling is reinforced every time i get back on one after spending time on an electric group. It’s just fun to me. And I like knowing, because I actually do possess a fairly decent level of mechanical skills, that there isn’t much that could ever go wrong that I couldn’t fix in very short order. I can’t say that about the electric stuff when it fails. I’m as puzzled when pushing the button doesn’t do anything as anyone else. Then the trial and error troubleshooting begins. It may be quick, it may arduously painful. But I know with mechanical, if something doesn’t work I can generally diagnose why in about a minute max. And then fix it in not too much longer. But it’s pretty much a set it and forget it system as well, requiring only proper cleaning and lubrication. To each his own, as long as there’s choice I’m happy. But I would really hate to see completely mechanical drivetrains on bicycles disappear altogether. That would be really sad.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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Electric is certainly easier for many but then if you change the wheelset then you have to adjust the RD accordingly..
If you change also the gearing of the cassette then you still have to adjust the B screw, change the gearings in the app so it is correctly displayed in the Garmin etc...
AND don't forget all the firmware updates etc....that should be done....
So electric is definitely not a 0% maintenance also.
If you change also the gearing of the cassette then you still have to adjust the B screw, change the gearings in the app so it is correctly displayed in the Garmin etc...
AND don't forget all the firmware updates etc....that should be done....
So electric is definitely not a 0% maintenance also.
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