Cables way too long right...

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
Post Reply
Boshk
Posts: 309
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 2:59 am

by Boshk

First real DIY cabling, on my previous Bianchi, I just cut according to existing length.

This C60 I had to cut myself.
Could be way shorter on the left side and the front brake cable housing should ideally slot vertically into the ferrule of the caliper right?
Attachments
IMG_20180703_130359.jpg
Colnago C60

by Weenie


User avatar
TonyM
Posts: 2585
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2015 4:11 pm

by TonyM

I personally cut them as much as possible BUT also check that everything is working even if I have to fully turn the front wheel either left or right.
Optically I would say it seems a little bit too much in the left side. But you have already so much on your handlebars that it doesn't not matter that much.
BTW, less cable usually means that the friction is greater and therefore less smoothness. So you really have to consider both aspects, optically and technically.

beanbiken
Posts: 567
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:13 pm
Location: Great Southern Land

by beanbiken

Yeah, I'm with TM on this. I would be trying to make both sides symetrical, as in the drive side. I also like mine as short as parctical without noticeably affecting shifting/braking.

BB
Ahhh, coffee & carbon

Boshk
Posts: 309
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 2:59 am

by Boshk

TonyM wrote:
Tue Jul 03, 2018 6:13 am
I personally cut them as much as possible BUT also check that everything is working even if I have to fully turn the front wheel either left or right.
Optically I would say it seems a little bit too much in the left side. But you have already so much on your handlebars that it doesn't not matter that much.
BTW, less cable usually means that the friction is greater and therefore less smoothness. So you really have to consider both aspects, optically and technically.
Thanks.
I'll try and re-do it.
As to the stuff on cockpit, the bell I need purely for police...its $45 fine if I get stopped and I don't have a bell (useless thing) and rear red reflector. Going to replace the bell with one of those slim Knoll-like bells.
The Cycliq12 I only use when I cycling alone.....for the light and camera

edit: done, looks actually way better now, gear cables are nearly symmetrical, shorten front brake cable and rear brake.
Last edited by Boshk on Tue Jul 03, 2018 3:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Colnago C60

User avatar
TonyM
Posts: 2585
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2015 4:11 pm

by TonyM

You could also use a Garmin mount for the stem. Like the F3.

https://www.f3cycling.com/formmount

Or hide your bell

https://hidemybell.cc/en/theproduct/

c60rider
Posts: 320
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2017 11:12 pm

by c60rider

Image

Here's my own C60 for comparison. It looks like the right side on yours is perhaps a little short but as long as it doesn't pull tight or resist when turning the bars it should be ok. I'm guessing your Cycliq front camera is the same connection as the new one/gopro style mounts. Their new all-in-one mount combines the camera and garmin in one which is really neat. A little on the expensive side but nicely hidden away under the Garmin.

Image

User avatar
TonyM
Posts: 2585
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2015 4:11 pm

by TonyM

I think that even K-Edge says that the Cycliq front cam/ light is too heavy for the Garmin/ GoPro combo mount.

Or does Cycliq have a specific Garmin/ Cycliq front cam/light mount?

User avatar
Calnago
Posts: 6466
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

@Boshk: see my C60 Build thread. Hint... make both the derailleur cable housings exactly the same length. Best done before final mounting to the bike. Then as long as your levers are in the same place on the bars they will end up symmetrical. Make sure they are just long enough to allow full rotation of bars, to the point that your bars touch the top tube. Try to get all 4 cable housings crossing in a 5mm circle just below the stem, dead center. Smooth out the arcs as much as possible without it being too tight. Square the ends of the cable housings and make sure the inner cables can move freely and unobstructed with no sharp burrs remaining from the cable cuts.

@C60rider... can your bars turn all the way to touch the right side of your top tube without ripping out the rear brake cable housing. Looks like it might be a tad short?
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

c60rider
Posts: 320
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2017 11:12 pm

by c60rider

TonyM wrote:
Tue Jul 03, 2018 7:12 pm
I think that even K-Edge says that the Cycliq front cam/ light is too heavy for the Garmin/ GoPro combo mount.

Or does Cycliq have a specific Garmin/ Cycliq front cam/light mount?
Yes the K edge mount isn't recommended for the Cycliq camera but that one is the Cycliq one

c60rider
Posts: 320
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2017 11:12 pm

by c60rider

Calnago wrote:
Tue Jul 03, 2018 7:46 pm

@C60rider... can your bars turn all the way to touch the right side of your top tube without ripping out the rear brake cable housing. Looks like it might be a tad short?
You're correct that I can't but I've no reason to ever want or need to turn the bars so far but when I replace the cables at some point it's something I'll bear in mind :thumbup:

User avatar
Calnago
Posts: 6466
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

Understand... it’s more of a what happens if you crash kind of thing and the bars get flipped all the way over. Or even throwing the bike in a car for transport and you need to have the bars turned. Even just falling over badly when you’re enjoying a coffee and some clutz happens by. Ounce of prevention, that’s all.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

User avatar
Miller
Posts: 1350
Joined: Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:54 pm
Location: Reading, UK

by Miller

Also worth considering is whether you can take the stem off the fork steerer tube without needing to undo brake cables. I like to be able to do this to allow easy spacer adjustment.

Boshk
Posts: 309
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 2:59 am

by Boshk

Calnago wrote:
Tue Jul 03, 2018 7:46 pm
@Boshk: see my C60 Build thread. Hint... make both the derailleur cable housings exactly the same length. Best done before final mounting to the bike. Then as long as your levers are in the same place on the bars they will end up symmetrical. Make sure they are just long enough to allow full rotation of bars, to the point that your bars touch the top tube. Try to get all 4 cable housings crossing in a 5mm circle just below the stem, dead center. Smooth out the arcs as much as possible without it being too tight. Square the ends of the cable housings and make sure the inner cables can move freely and unobstructed with no sharp burrs remaining from the cable cuts.

@C60rider... can your bars turn all the way to touch the right side of your top tube without ripping out the rear brake cable housing. Looks like it might be a tad short?
I always refer to your build Cal. Used it to build my C60, especially the fork assembly.....

Its done, not perfect but close enough, doesn't pull any of the housing out at full turn. I'll probably end up replacing them with DA cabling later so will make sure both derail housing are same length.

@C60rider thanks mate, mine is very similar to yours now. left side is still a tad longer than right side but its acceptable. That combo mount looks good actually. Would be less interference with the cabling too.
Colnago C60

by Weenie


c60rider
Posts: 320
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2017 11:12 pm

by c60rider

Boshk wrote:
Wed Jul 04, 2018 12:04 am
Calnago wrote:
Tue Jul 03, 2018 7:46 pm
@Boshk: see my C60 Build thread. Hint... make both the derailleur cable housings exactly the same length. Best done before final mounting to the bike. Then as long as your levers are in the same place on the bars they will end up symmetrical. Make sure they are just long enough to allow full rotation of bars, to the point that your bars touch the top tube. Try to get all 4 cable housings crossing in a 5mm circle just below the stem, dead center. Smooth out the arcs as much as possible without it being too tight. Square the ends of the cable housings and make sure the inner cables can move freely and unobstructed with no sharp burrs remaining from the cable cuts.

@C60rider... can your bars turn all the way to touch the right side of your top tube without ripping out the rear brake cable housing. Looks like it might be a tad short?
I always refer to your build Cal. Used it to build my C60, especially the fork assembly.....

Its done, not perfect but close enough, doesn't pull any of the housing out at full turn. I'll probably end up replacing them with DA cabling later so will make sure both derail housing are same length.

@C60rider thanks mate, mine is very similar to yours now. left side is still a tad longer than right side but its acceptable. That combo mount looks good actually. Would be less interference with the cabling too.
I couldn't recommend that Cycliq mount enough. It's really nicely made and the Garmin fits nice and tight in there and it almost hides the camera. It also extends out further away from the bars than the garmin and K edge ones so you're able to get at the bottom buttons on the 520 easier. I think that's why Garmin changed the mount with the 520 so it sits above the height of the bars which I don't like. The only downside is the price around £60 but there's no other combi option at present.

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post