Di2 completely dead !

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Delorre
Posts: 967
Joined: Sat May 24, 2014 12:09 pm

by Delorre

Hi, suddenly, my di2 is dead. Worked perfectly on zwift, the day after, nothing anymore. I tought the battery was drained, but when I plug in to the pc, it doesn't charge. With etube projects, the pc don't find any component. I checked the wires from the internal junction to the shifters, and fine. Cable is fine also. My question is: if a connection is loose somewhere, etube project should find some of the components, no? If battery not connected, he should tell me I suppose ? Here, he really doesn't find any component. So, suddenly faulty internal junction? Seems really, really weird. Any suggestions ?

JackRussellRacing
Posts: 243
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 4:32 pm
Location: USA

by JackRussellRacing

Mine did the exact same thing a few weeks ago. Battery in the seatpost was completely DOA. New battery, and everything is back to normal.

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ParisCarbon
Posts: 1927
Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:39 am
Location: Winnipeg Canada

by ParisCarbon

I had mine fail once for 10 minutes during a ride and I never did find out why... it just came back to life..
Not 100% familiar with the software
Things to check.. connection at battery, are you using a junction between battery and EW90-A
I had a FD shifter quit bcause the bar tape pulled the wire from the shifter...

glepore
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Location: Virginia USA

by glepore

I had an internal battery fail mid ride a couple years ago. Seemed to have same/similar symptoms. Given that the logic is in the battery, a total failure may prevent etube frome seeing any components.
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RussellS
Posts: 916
Joined: Wed Feb 03, 2010 1:31 am

by RussellS

Sounds like there is some problem in the battery itself. Something is not connecting. Either have the battery analyzed and fixed, or buy a new battery. Last year my laptop stopped charging. It lasted a few hours on battery and then died. Took it to the computer shop and they found a wire/solder had come unconnected. They resoldered it and everything has worked fine ever since. Probably something like that inside your battery.

kode54
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 9:39 pm

by kode54

sometimes, if there's not enough slack in the e-tube wires...it may 'pop' off from the junction A...and may look like its still connected. make sure you press each connector in and hear and feel the click to be sure.
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Delorre
Posts: 967
Joined: Sat May 24, 2014 12:09 pm

by Delorre

Will pull the battery out and if all connections are fine, do you think I could test with the 'older' generation internal bat from my 9070 equiped bike ?

BdaGhisallo
Posts: 3278
Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2004 1:38 pm

by BdaGhisallo

Delorre wrote:
Mon Jun 25, 2018 10:21 pm
Will pull the battery out and if all connections are fine, do you think I could test with the 'older' generation internal bat from my 9070 equiped bike ?
Sure, that will work just fine.

RussellS
Posts: 916
Joined: Wed Feb 03, 2010 1:31 am

by RussellS

Delorre wrote:
Mon Jun 25, 2018 10:21 pm
Will pull the battery out and if all connections are fine, do you think I could test with the 'older' generation internal bat from my 9070 equiped bike ?
Agree. If you can get the old battery to work, then you can be pretty sure the problem is with the internal battery. Something has come undone inside the battery.

Delorre
Posts: 967
Joined: Sat May 24, 2014 12:09 pm

by Delorre

Update from this morning : I really don't like this at all! The connection was fine, but, before taking apart the seatpost from the other bike, I left the battery unplugged for some time and plugged it in again. Still no response from the shifters, nor battery level indicator. As very last test, I pluged to bike into the charger (fed by pc USB port), and, don't ask why, but the charging led was on. Left it, and after almost 3h of charging, the light went out, and everything seems fine.

So, OK, bike back in business, but how can I trust that it will no happen again within some days/ weeks, and if it happens, of course, it will be on the badest possible moment :twisted: . I would have prefered that the battery was faulty and get a new one. 10.000 km is not much, I keep track of it, and I charged it 7 times.

BdaGhisallo
Posts: 3278
Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2004 1:38 pm

by BdaGhisallo

Delorre wrote:
Tue Jun 26, 2018 12:52 pm
Update from this morning : I really don't like this at all! The connection was fine, but, before taking apart the seatpost from the other bike, I left the battery unplugged for some time and plugged it in again. Still no response from the shifters, nor battery level indicator. As very last test, I pluged to bike into the charger (fed by pc USB port), and, don't ask why, but the charging led was on. Left it, and after almost 3h of charging, the light went out, and everything seems fine.

So, OK, bike back in business, but how can I trust that it will no happen again within some days/ weeks, and if it happens, of course, it will be on the badest possible moment :twisted: . I would have prefered that the battery was faulty and get a new one. 10.000 km is not much, I keep track of it, and I charged it 7 times.
Now that you have a full charge and all seems to be working, track the battery status closely in the coming days and weeks. It could be that you have a faulty Junction A box. Over the years I have had two of them go bad and lead to premature battery drain.

Theologian
Posts: 84
Joined: Sat Jun 23, 2018 3:34 am

by Theologian

BdaGhisallo wrote:
Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:02 pm
Now that you have a full charge and all seems to be working, track the battery status closely in the coming days and weeks. It could be that you have a faulty Junction A box. Over the years I have had two of them go bad and lead to premature battery drain.
If it really is junction A's problem, then would it be better to use a Bar End juction and bypass the y-splitter? Or is the Bar End junction just as unreliable as the external one. I'm following this becuase I'm thinking about upgrading to Di2 from mechanical.

BdaGhisallo
Posts: 3278
Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2004 1:38 pm

by BdaGhisallo

Theologian wrote:
Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:08 pm
BdaGhisallo wrote:
Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:02 pm
Now that you have a full charge and all seems to be working, track the battery status closely in the coming days and weeks. It could be that you have a faulty Junction A box. Over the years I have had two of them go bad and lead to premature battery drain.
If it really is junction A's problem, then would it be better to use a Bar End juction and bypass the y-splitter? Or is the Bar End junction just as unreliable as the external one. I'm following this becuase I'm thinking about upgrading to Di2 from mechanical.
I wouldn't steer away from the Junction A. The bar end junction is going to have the same electronics in it - only the housing is different I would imagine.

Electronics fail from time to time and nothing is fullproof. I wouldn't worry too much and would go with the standard setup. It's just good to know what has failed for others so that if you do run into a similar scenario you are better equipped to trouble shoot.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Theologian wrote:... I'm following this becuase I'm thinking about upgrading to Di2 from mechanical.
“Upgrading”?
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BdaGhisallo
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Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2004 1:38 pm

by BdaGhisallo

Calnago wrote:
Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:33 pm
Theologian wrote:... I'm following this becuase I'm thinking about upgrading to Di2 from mechanical.
“Upgrading”?
I think he had it right...

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