Di2 completely dead !

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Delorre
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Joined: Sat May 24, 2014 12:09 pm

by Delorre

Calnago wrote:
Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:33 pm
Theologian wrote:... I'm following this becuase I'm thinking about upgrading to Di2 from mechanical.
“Upgrading”?
I'm not gonna debate mech. vs electronical, but in some way yes:

*Once setup, it keeps working and indexed, regardless of weather. An upgrade from the mechanical groupsets I've owned in my first 25 years of riding
*Every shift is the same, you don't have to think to much of how much pressure you have to apply to the levers to make just 1 shift at the rear, and not 2. At the end of ride, when tired, it's a big +. My last bike with mechanical was a Chorus / Record mix, so not low end gruppo.
*As for reliability : apart from 1 battery that went bad on the first DI2 bike, and now this (maybe faulty battery or junction), I've not had to do anything to my bike gears in >40.000km's. Not too bad :wink: But you are right, with mechanical, it's more obvious were the problem is, but is a worn shifter or derailleur spring better than a faulty battery? A snapped cable is easy to replace, nothing I can say about that :oops:

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Delorre
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by Delorre

BdaGhisallo wrote:
Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:02 pm

Now that you have a full charge and all seems to be working, track the battery status closely in the coming days and weeks.
That's what I'm doing from the first day I switched (upgraded? :p ) to DI2. The Strava equipment function is really great for such things, just a chain / tyres etc wear.

Theologian
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by Theologian

Calnago wrote:
Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:33 pm
Theologian wrote:... I'm following this becuase I'm thinking about upgrading to Di2 from mechanical.
“Upgrading”?
Didn't mean to open a can of worms; realized that there're lots of good and respectable opinions on both sides. I'm coming from SRAM Rival, so anything in the Ultegra or Dura Ace group will be an upgrade, mechanical or otherwise. Nothing against Sram either; great products.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

You didn’t open the can of worms... my bad on that one, sorry. Not going to debate anything however. But having acquired a fair degree of mechanical skill over the years I just hate it when I’m left scratching my head no different than someone with zero knowledge would be doing.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
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synthesis
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Location: Denmark

by synthesis

Calnago wrote:
Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:33 pm
Theologian wrote:... I'm following this becuase I'm thinking about upgrading to Di2 from mechanical.
“Upgrading”?
Yeah what is he talking about???

dricked
Posts: 188
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2018 1:57 pm

by dricked

BdaGhisallo wrote:
Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:29 pm
Theologian wrote:
Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:08 pm
BdaGhisallo wrote:
Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:02 pm
Now that you have a full charge and all seems to be working, track the battery status closely in the coming days and weeks. It could be that you have a faulty Junction A box. Over the years I have had two of them go bad and lead to premature battery drain.
If it really is junction A's problem, then would it be better to use a Bar End juction and bypass the y-splitter? Or is the Bar End junction just as unreliable as the external one. I'm following this becuase I'm thinking about upgrading to Di2 from mechanical.
I wouldn't steer away from the Junction A. The bar end junction is going to have the same electronics in it - only the housing is different I would imagine.

Electronics fail from time to time and nothing is fullproof. I wouldn't worry too much and would go with the standard setup. It's just good to know what has failed for others so that if you do run into a similar scenario you are better equipped to trouble shoot.
If you buy the Shimano PCM tool, trouble shooting the system is possible and keeps you from swapping parts to hopefully fix the issue. Having that A box hanging under the stem looks awful IMO and unwrapping my bar tape to replace the bar end unit if it were to fail is worth it if it gets rid of that eye sore.

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wheelsONfire
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Location: NorthEU

by wheelsONfire

I'm on my fourth battery!
Since i have wonder a few times, what is the problem, i bought PCE1.
Then you can test all components yourself.
It's worth the money to really be able to conclude what is the problem.
Bikes:

Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)


Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.

Delorre
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by Delorre

Fingers crossed / touching wood, until now, all is still OK. Strange things happened that night...

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TonyM
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by TonyM

I also bought the PCE1 interface. Just in case I have some problems so that I don't have to travel and ask the LBS etc.....
A small investment compared to the cost for the Di2 gruppo.... :smartass:

dricked
Posts: 188
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by dricked

PCE1, that’s what I meant!

Delorre
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Joined: Sat May 24, 2014 12:09 pm

by Delorre

Delorre wrote:
Fri Jun 29, 2018 9:32 pm
Fingers crossed / touching wood, until now, all is still OK. Strange things happened that night...
All good until this morning. Solid green light at start, but after only 600km since last charge (so after todays ride of 120 km) , the status light is flashing green (50% battery), instead of >1500kms. Way sooner as normal, but I didn't bother too much, until I plugged the charger into the pc to charge the bike. I go the error light blinking on the charger. Bad news or maybe good news, because this seems a very valid reason the get a new battery under warranty. Tried 2 chargers and both USB ports on the pc, still the same.

Conclusion of the story : as most of the time, if something has to fail on DI2, it's the battery... On the other bike my battery went after around 10.000 km, only a few more than on this bike. But after an other 17.000km, the battery is still alive on that bike :D 8)

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TonyM
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by TonyM

Do you think the faulty batteries belong to the first batches of batteries? I mean which one are faulty? The old one or also new ones?

Delorre
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Joined: Sat May 24, 2014 12:09 pm

by Delorre

TonyM wrote:
Sat Jul 07, 2018 10:06 pm
Do you think the faulty batteries belong to the first batches of batteries? I mean which one are faulty? The old one or also new ones?
Both :wink: The first one was on my 9070 bike, the one that failed now, is the newer ones you find on 9150/9170. As long as it's warrantied, it's not the end of the world. And as I have the luxe of having the Orica as (very nice) spare bike, I care even less.

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Ivan
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by Ivan

I would like to chime in here because I had DI2 problems too. Riding a Canyon Ultimate CF SLX disc with DI2 9170 (BT-DN110 and EW-RS910, rest is standard Dura Ace 9170) since december.
First sign of problems were after a race: charged battery before the race. All went well in the race, packed bike again the day after and drove home (4h drive with car) and when I unpacked the bike, DI2 was completely dead. Only went back to working after couple of minutes of charging. For the car drive home, only the front wheel needed to be removed.
Second, in a training ride, after an hour or so, no shifting at all, lasted for 30 minutes or so, I stopped for a couple of minutes (met a friend on the road) and when I started again, everything was back again. I didn't charged or shifted or did anything else. The bike just stood there for a couple of minutes.
Lastly, 3 days ago. On holiday in France to compete in a race (bouticycle Aigoual) again charged DI2 before the race. All went well in the race, not any sign of shifting problems. After the race I stored my bike in my car as we waited for the podium (finished 5th overall, 1st in my category) and wanted to drive to our holiday house with my bike, no shifting at all, for the entire drive home, 45 mins. Since then I tried charging, checked ALL connections, E-tube on WIndows PC (connected but failed to recognize the system). Been left without bike in France since then :-( Any help is appreciated.

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by Weenie


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TurboKoo
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Joined: Wed Oct 29, 2008 7:55 pm

by TurboKoo

Sounds like you have issues with battery heating too much. How do you have battery inside frame?
Cannondale SuperSix
Shimano 9270

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