Had the same thing. After unplugging the battery for several minutes, I was able to charge it again, but it's only a temporary fix. (Likely) Your battery is faulty but as long as you can charge after every ride, you are fine for your holidays
Di2 completely dead !
Moderator: robbosmans
Current bikes:
Scott Addict Premium Disc 2018
Scott Addict Orica Greenedge 2015
Retired:
Canyon Endurace CF SLX 2016
Canyon Ultimate CF SLX 2013
Scott Addict Premium Disc 2018
Scott Addict Orica Greenedge 2015
Retired:
Canyon Endurace CF SLX 2016
Canyon Ultimate CF SLX 2013
Thanks for the advice but it did not work.Had the same thing. After unplugging the battery for several minutes, I was able to charge it again, but it's only a temporary fix. (Likely) Your battery is faulty but as long as you can charge after every ride, you are fine for your holidays
The battery is mounted in the frame with an OEM Canyon battery holder, inside the down tube between the bottle cage holder and BB. This holder covers only a small part of the battery and is unlikely to cause any overheating issues I guess. The frame is all black though. If that is the case then it is a faulty design by Shimano/Canyon. It was warm during the last race but not like you would say on the border of being able to ride your bike, like 30-32 °C max I think.Sounds like you have issues with battery heating too much. How do you have battery inside frame?
He ride a bike instead of a car I wanna be his friend
Golden Earring - Going to the run
Golden Earring - Going to the run
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Hi Ivan, I have exactly the same problem. Same bike as you, same issue after transporting the bike in my car.Ivan wrote: ↑Mon Jul 09, 2018 4:45 pmThanks for the advice but it did not work.Had the same thing. After unplugging the battery for several minutes, I was able to charge it again, but it's only a temporary fix. (Likely) Your battery is faulty but as long as you can charge after every ride, you are fine for your holidays
The battery is mounted in the frame with an OEM Canyon battery holder, inside the down tube between the bottle cage holder and BB. This holder covers only a small part of the battery and is unlikely to cause any overheating issues I guess. The frame is all black though. If that is the case then it is a faulty design by Shimano/Canyon. It was warm during the last race but not like you would say on the border of being able to ride your bike, like 30-32 °C max I think.Sounds like you have issues with battery heating too much. How do you have battery inside frame?
Worked fine, then put it in my car for a few hours and... dead. Not even a red light tuning on. At this time I don't have Shimano's cable to charge the battery, I left it at home during my holidays thinking that I would be fine with a full charge for a few days...
5000 EUR bike and not reliable, not cool :/
Have you found what your problem is/was? It is still under guarantee but I don't want to ship the bike to Germany for support. And I don't want to buy a battery either, until I'm not 100% sure it's the battery. I'll try to charge it when back home but if it loads I won't be confident it works fine again.
Have a different version of this happening..
Crashed on Wednesday, oil slick took away front wheel and went into the ground on the hoods.. Pretty banged up.
The left doesn't respond normally.. Have to press really hard to get it to shift.. Or detect the shift command.
Went for my ride today, no battery charge left in di2 even though only charged 2 weeks ago. Strapped a usb battery/ the charger to the bike and went anyway.
During the ride.. The left shifter had a loud click/snap sound and seems to behave normally again. Normal pressure to activate the left.
Seems like it was out of whack due to the crash and pressed in someway draining the battery.
Haven't taken it apart to see if anything needs gluing down.. Not even sure if it's possible. Anyone seen a guide for this?
It's a 9170 duraace hydro hoods.
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Crashed on Wednesday, oil slick took away front wheel and went into the ground on the hoods.. Pretty banged up.
The left doesn't respond normally.. Have to press really hard to get it to shift.. Or detect the shift command.
Went for my ride today, no battery charge left in di2 even though only charged 2 weeks ago. Strapped a usb battery/ the charger to the bike and went anyway.
During the ride.. The left shifter had a loud click/snap sound and seems to behave normally again. Normal pressure to activate the left.
Seems like it was out of whack due to the crash and pressed in someway draining the battery.
Haven't taken it apart to see if anything needs gluing down.. Not even sure if it's possible. Anyone seen a guide for this?
It's a 9170 duraace hydro hoods.
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
i think my battery is on its way out, charged to 100%, 10 hrs later it was down to 25%. The bike was left idol the whole time, and shift buttons were not pressed. Went out on a ride wish the 25% battery, 40 minutes later the battery is completely dead. Cannot even shift the RD
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The battery is only good for something like 150 full charges? Maybe I recall the number I read wrong. I would say I charge mine only maybe every 3 months, it is only 3yrs old or so my 9070. So really, I would say I've probably only charged mine in 3yrs 15 times as guess???\
But, batteries get old and die...nature of the technology with rechargeables, it gets less and less over time the capacity it holds.
I think my battery might be getting a bit old, because it died on a ride a few weeks ago. Charged right up and working fine..but seems like I charged it not too long ago and never had that happen. Then again, maybe I'm just lazy and not being proactive enough??
But, batteries get old and die...nature of the technology with rechargeables, it gets less and less over time the capacity it holds.
I think my battery might be getting a bit old, because it died on a ride a few weeks ago. Charged right up and working fine..but seems like I charged it not too long ago and never had that happen. Then again, maybe I'm just lazy and not being proactive enough??
Sometimes a mysterious battery drain is caused by incorrectly set limit screw. The motor is trying to shift but can’t complete the shift due to the limit screw set too far inward. When left in this condition the battery will drain quickly. Worth checking it.ChiZ01 wrote:i think my battery is on its way out, charged to 100%, 10 hrs later it was down to 25%. The bike was left idol the whole time, and shift buttons were not pressed. Went out on a ride wish the 25% battery, 40 minutes later the battery is completely dead. Cannot even shift the RD
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that would only matter if the bike is left at the extreme gears, mine was left at the middle of the cassette, the limit screw is no where near touching the RDpdlpsher1 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 20, 2019 3:07 amSometimes a mysterious battery drain is caused by incorrectly set limit screw. The motor is trying to shift but can’t complete the shift due to the limit screw set too far inward. When left in this condition the battery will drain quickly. Worth checking it.ChiZ01 wrote:i think my battery is on its way out, charged to 100%, 10 hrs later it was down to 25%. The bike was left idol the whole time, and shift buttons were not pressed. Went out on a ride wish the 25% battery, 40 minutes later the battery is completely dead. Cannot even shift the RD
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All updates from e-tube have been made?ChiZ01 wrote:that would only matter if the bike is left at the extreme gears, mine was left at the middle of the cassette, the limit screw is no where near touching the RDpdlpsher1 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 20, 2019 3:07 amSometimes a mysterious battery drain is caused by incorrectly set limit screw. The motor is trying to shift but can’t complete the shift due to the limit screw set too far inward. When left in this condition the battery will drain quickly. Worth checking it.ChiZ01 wrote:i think my battery is on its way out, charged to 100%, 10 hrs later it was down to 25%. The bike was left idol the whole time, and shift buttons were not pressed. Went out on a ride wish the 25% battery, 40 minutes later the battery is completely dead. Cannot even shift the RD
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Assuming everything is showing up ok on the E-Tube app at home, you need to take your bike into a shop and let them use the new PCE-2 tool. It has a new function that can identify battery drain issues.
still doing testing, get a brand new battery and left RD and FD disconnected, battery is still draining at rate of 20% every 4 hours. More and more looks like the front junction port issue, My garmin is able to detect the di2 when the bike was idol for hours. So something is keeping the system awake the whole time.
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I had a similar issue and it was a defective EW-WU111. Shimano has a two year warranty on the part so they replaced it. It was the last thing I checked after disconnecting FD, RD, junctions, etc to find the drain. In hindsight, the giveaway should have been the garmin detecting the unit even when it was not being used.