Drilling Titanium Chainstay
Moderator: robbosmans
- PyreofFyre
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:43 am
Hi all,
Seeking the collective wisdom of all the experts here.
First time poster, long time lurker here.
Am currently in possession of a titanium frame, that's lacking a drive-side chainstay port for a Di2 cable (for the rear derailleur).
I've noticed that the dropout uses hooded style Paragon one, with a tiny breather hole at the rear of the chainstay.
Assuming the necessary tools are available, would there be any issues to the frame if I were to enlarge this whole to 6mm in diameter to fit the cable (along with the Shimano SM-GM01 grommet)?
Would there be any impact on durability, reliability, etc?
Thanks and very much appreciate the inputs.
PoF
Seeking the collective wisdom of all the experts here.
First time poster, long time lurker here.
Am currently in possession of a titanium frame, that's lacking a drive-side chainstay port for a Di2 cable (for the rear derailleur).
I've noticed that the dropout uses hooded style Paragon one, with a tiny breather hole at the rear of the chainstay.
Assuming the necessary tools are available, would there be any issues to the frame if I were to enlarge this whole to 6mm in diameter to fit the cable (along with the Shimano SM-GM01 grommet)?
Would there be any impact on durability, reliability, etc?
Thanks and very much appreciate the inputs.
PoF
I'd take it to a local bike builder for the best placement and size of the hole. If you're talking about the capped area at the end of the tube, it should be fine. Do you have pics of the chainstay?
Also, look up particulars of drilling Ti. You need some oil, a sharp & hard bit, and some pressure. Material is grabby.
Also, look up particulars of drilling Ti. You need some oil, a sharp & hard bit, and some pressure. Material is grabby.
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Wouldn't it be easier to splice a thinner cable into the Di wiring loom?
i think its fine. i have an older Guru Ti frame that has a Di2 port in that area.
you just need to make the breather hole larger, yes? to 6mm, correct?
you just need to make the breather hole larger, yes? to 6mm, correct?
- Factor Ostro VAM Disc
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- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
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- Posts: 84
- Joined: Sat Jun 23, 2018 3:34 am
I have the same problem looking to upgrade my volagi Ti to di2. There're di2 holes on the downtube and seat tube for front derailleur, but nothing for the rear exacept the breather hole. I think I'm going to splice the etube, becuse the etube wire fits in the hole without the plugs.
- PyreofFyre
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:43 am
Hi Kode54, yup, that's the idea. I didn't want to risk my chances with an external job, where the drill bit might slip and mar the finish of the frame.
Thanks for the feedback.
- PyreofFyre
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:43 am
jfranci3 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 25, 2018 2:27 pmI'd take it to a local bike builder for the best placement and size of the hole. If you're talking about the capped area at the end of the tube, it should be fine. Do you have pics of the chainstay?
Also, look up particulars of drilling Ti. You need some oil, a sharp & hard bit, and some pressure. Material is grabby.
Thanks Jfranci3, I've got a 6mm cobalt bit that I could use for this, and was going to go with some chain lubricant (also as a coolant). Just more worried about stuff like embrittlement like Theologian said.
Appreciate the inputs though.
That coolant needs to be run through continuously. Chain lube as coolant is too low temp.PyreofFyre wrote: ↑Mon Jun 25, 2018 11:21 pmjfranci3 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 25, 2018 2:27 pmI'd take it to a local bike builder for the best placement and size of the hole. If you're talking about the capped area at the end of the tube, it should be fine. Do you have pics of the chainstay?
Also, look up particulars of drilling Ti. You need some oil, a sharp & hard bit, and some pressure. Material is grabby.
Thanks Jfranci3, I've got a 6mm cobalt bit that I could use for this, and was going to go with some chain lubricant (also as a coolant). Just more worried about stuff like embrittlement like Theologian said.
Appreciate the inputs though.
- PyreofFyre
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:43 am
Thanks for the heads up. What would you use for coolant then?jfranci3 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:45 amThat coolant needs to be run through continuously. Chain lube as coolant is too low temp.PyreofFyre wrote: ↑Mon Jun 25, 2018 11:21 pmjfranci3 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 25, 2018 2:27 pmI'd take it to a local bike builder for the best placement and size of the hole. If you're talking about the capped area at the end of the tube, it should be fine. Do you have pics of the chainstay?
Also, look up particulars of drilling Ti. You need some oil, a sharp & hard bit, and some pressure. Material is grabby.
Thanks Jfranci3, I've got a 6mm cobalt bit that I could use for this, and was going to go with some chain lubricant (also as a coolant). Just more worried about stuff like embrittlement like Theologian said.
Appreciate the inputs though.
Some discussion of cutting/coolant oil here: https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/g ... um-315381/.
That's a bit too much for a shallow wall 6mm hole. Maybe motor or olive oil. Ideally you want something that can pull the heat away as TI does not conduct heat, it'd rather heat the tool and bond with it.
Ti will also work harden, no tap tap tap tap rather than light constant pressure.
Ti will also work harden, no tap tap tap tap rather than light constant pressure.
If you’re enlarging a drain hole a reamer would be more appropriate and much quicker. The quicker work you can make of it, the less heat. But you would want to use a cutting fluid like Rapid Tap as opposed to coolant.
- PyreofFyre
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:43 am
Wow, thanks guys for all the info! Much appreciated.
=)
=)
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