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Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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barryalen1992
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2018 5:11 am

by barryalen1992

Long story short, bought brand new superlogic carbon bars today. Used acetone to take off a to logo and mucked up the carbon! Sanded off the matte clear and naw it's smooth and down to raw carbon. Almost finished with it.

So I spray a matte finish clear coat protectant on it or leave it? I don't want it to be sticky at all on the top bar. I bought some rustoleum advanced matte clear. Just don't know if I should use it or if there is no need.

Kicking myself in the fave right now for ruining $300 bars 10 minutes after getting them home.

alcatraz
Posts: 1132
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

The carbon is where the money's been spent, not the clear coat.

I don't think it's so bad. Consider yourself to be a tuner in true ww spirit and be happy. If you want to be a pessimist you can conclude that you won't get the money back but that is also true for 2nd hand used bike parts anyway.

Use the bars for a long time and whatever you spent will be worth it.

by Weenie


sungod
Posts: 1638
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:37 pm
Location: it's raining, it must be uk

by sungod

i wouldn't use bare cf bars, add a suitable clearcoat to protect the resin

not familiar with the one you mention, make sure it's designed for external use and also uv protective

fwiw i used u-pol up0804 clearcoat on a seat post, it wasn't sticky

NiFTY
Posts: 1186
Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm

by NiFTY

Use the clearcoat after sanding. Matte clear plus aero 303 looks the business. I have done the same thing intentionally to a set of bars, 2 seatposts, a frame, 2 forks, a carbon stem, 2 bottle cages, 2 pairs of shifters, 2 rear derailleur cages, a set of cranks, spacers, part of a saddle. Nil issues.
Evo 5.02kg SL3 6.77 Slice RS 8.89 viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Rick
Posts: 2035
Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 4:30 pm

by Rick

I vote for protective clear coat.
Multiple, thin, layers; with complete cure between. Measure carefully so you don't get too much build-up and make the bars hard to install.
I refinished a carbon fork about 10 years ago and it has held up great using rustoleum clearcoat.

At the time, I did some reserach that indicated you should do a light buffing with fine steel wool, degrease with alcohol, but then the final cleaning was with dish soap and thorough rinse with plain water. Thoroughly dry of course. Wear rubber gloves during any handling so no hand-oils are transferred to the surface. I don't have a good track record with successful paint jobs, but the fork turned out perfectly. The best paint I have ever done.

tabl10s
Posts: 261
Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2017 5:40 am

by tabl10s

Rick wrote:
Mon Jun 18, 2018 2:56 pm
I vote for protective clear coat.
Multiple, thin, layers; with complete cure between. Measure carefully so you don't get too much build-up and make the bars hard to install.
I refinished a carbon fork about 10 years ago and it has held up great using rustoleum clearcoat.

At the time, I did some reserach that indicated you should do a light buffing with fine steel wool, degrease with alcohol, but then the final cleaning was with dish soap and thorough rinse with plain water. Thoroughly dry of course. Wear rubber gloves during any handling so no hand-oils are transferred to the surface. I don't have a good track record with successful paint jobs, but the fork turned out perfectly. The best paint I have ever done.
Dawn dishsoap is one of the best to degrease and is used by Audio/Videophiles on their CD/DVD's before the treating their disc's.
2016 Orbea Orca OMR:

15.2lbs/6.89kg.

2013 Wilier Zero.7:

13.04lbs/5.91kg.

2016 Rca:

11.13lbs/5.048kg(trying to get to 10lbs without tubs).

2015 Pinarello F8(build in-process).

2lo8
Posts: 446
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 10:32 am

by 2lo8

Just a reminder in case you forget, but the edges and coverage can be shoddy where the bar tape is and you didn't sand. You're really only looking at coating the center 6" or so unless you sanded everything.
[6.6kg of no carbon fiber]
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Your one-stop source for information and reviews on cheap eBay bike junk.

Marin
Posts: 2954
Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:48 am
Location: Vienna Austria

by Marin

I'd vote for leaving the bare resin. It's what I do with bars and cranks, and I don't see why this should be a problem.

The best paints are 2k epoxy - basically what your resin is anyway.

pyrahna
Posts: 138
Joined: Wed Aug 14, 2013 9:53 pm

by pyrahna

Marin wrote:
Fri Jun 22, 2018 9:57 am
I'd vote for leaving the bare resin. It's what I do with bars and cranks, and I don't see why this should be a problem.

The best paints are 2k epoxy - basically what your resin is anyway.
A lot of resins are not UV stable and will degrade over time without some sort of protective layer. This is probably an overblown fear unless you leave you bike out all day every day in direct sunlight, but when it is so easy to take care of...why wouldn't you?

Marin
Posts: 2954
Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:48 am
Location: Vienna Austria

by Marin

In my experience, painting is never easy.

by Weenie


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