Wheels with alu brake track for the mountains

[Lewn777]

I also recommend DT Swiss.

[naylor343]

I can only agree with Mr.Gib. Get yourself some nice alu rims and leave the carbons at home. After a really long and cold winter, and then the wettest spring for years, the roads here in the Pyrenees are in a pretty poor condition. The late snow has meant that a lot more routine road repairs have been missed and it is now too late as it is almost summer and tourists are arriving. Talking of tourists, when you are descending on the more narrower roads and you have a huge camper van approaching blindly around a corner, you want every bit of help stopping you can get! Plus when you catch them up, if you cannot pass you almost have to sit on the brakes all the way down.

On a positive though, it has eventually stopped raining and the sun is back in full force, enjoy your trip whatever your wheel choice

[vejnemojnen]

Hunt wheels? Hunt Aero Race Wide is basically built around KinLin XR31T rims and weigh just below 1.500 grams

https://www.huntbikewheels.com/collecti ... im%20Brake

[Multebear]

I've mentioned it in numerous topics, but I'd gladly say it again. I've done many trips to various climbing destinations in Europe with my Farsports 38 x 25 mm carbon wheels. I've been everything between 86 and 92 kg. And I haven't had any problems with the wheels whatsoever. I'm a pretty aggressive descender and sometimes do pretty hard braking. But mostly I do pulsated braking. I've only on one descent on Gran Canaria stopped a couple times and put my hand on the front rim to feel how hot it got, and it was a bit more than lukewarm. But my friend who rode fairly deep alu 3T wheels, had similar temperature on his wheels. So I have no concern descending on those wheels at all. I've even descended them on rainy days. And done without getting concerned. But I'd recommend the blue carbon pads for rainy days - either Reynolds Blue or the cheaper blue ones from aliexpress.

That said, Farsports isn't an option if you're leaving in 10 days. I'd always go handbuild to get wheels, that are targeted your exact needs without being overbuilt. Where are you located? If you are in UK, hurry up and get in touch with the cycle clinic or strada wheels and ask them for the Kinlin XR31T rims, and what kind of build they would recommend. Alternatively the same rim in a lighter and shallower config - the XR26T. With your weight you'd easily get away with 28/20 spoke config - maybe even 24/20. But talk to them and ask their opinion. For hubs DT 240s is always the safe bet, but there are other options, that are at least as good and/or cheaper.

[TurboTommy]

Guys thanks loads for all the well thought out responses so far. Very grateful people taking the time to offer advice. Regarding leaving the carbon rims at home. Well personally I’m very happy with the braking abiliity of my carbon rims in the dry. Poor quality roads, hazards on the roads. Definitely something to take into consideration when tackling the descents. As a point of reference the carbon wheels I’ll be using are lightweight meilenstein 24e tubular. Used in conjunction with EE direct mount brakes. I’ve been super happy with the braking power of this combo so far.

The two things I’m mostly aware of is how poorly carbon performs in the wet. And potential issue with meilesntein in crosswinds. That’s why I want the alu option.

I hope no one thinks I’m dismissing their advice. Because I will use my judgement on a day by day basis and I won’t continue using the carbon out of pride or something silly like that. And I’m very grateful for the heads up regarding the recent conditions.

Originally I was 75% thinking I’d get racing zero nites. Or possibly campag shamals. The mavics threw in a bit of a curve ball to be honest. I’m always a little dismissive of mavics generally but they do look like a nice set of wheels that tick a lot of the boxes. The dura ace are appealing and I know how reliable the hub is so again that got me thinking. But hearing that they’re not overly stiff is off putting considering my weight and the fact I can put a bit of power through the bike on a good day. I think the ship has sailed with regards handbuilts. I do live in the UK. But I want to get this done and dusted by the weekend really to avoid last minute panic. It’s a shame in the sense that I’d really love the handbuilts option and it’s where I’ll eventually end up I think. But at the moment I think it’s the DT Swiss option that has got me most interested. In my head it’s the closest to a handbuilt wheel off the peg so to speak. I have the hub already on my lightweights and a set of zipp 303’s so I know it’s ticking those boxes well. And the price is also decent relevant to the other options I’ve been mulling over.

[Multebear]

Not relevant since you're not going for the Shimano Dura Ace C24's. But I wouldn't pick them either. The tech is OLD, and they haven't even updated them in the latest iteration. They are narrow, shallow, and you wont be able to get replacement rims. Hubs are some of the best, but what does it matter, if you have to trash them, when the rims are worn. And as others mention, they are known to flex under some riders.

You can't go wrong with DT. But you can't go wrong with Fulcrum either.

[Mr.Gib]

If you are open to Shamal Ultras, you won't be dissappointed. I have a set. All you could want from an alloy wheel. Weight is good also. Not fast like a deep carbon wheel but fast enough and a terrific climbing wheel. Just make sure you get the new wider C17 version.

[NickJHP]

I'd also be be curious if there's any alloy/carbon 38-50mm deep rims that aren't heavy. The only ones I can find are Farsports, etc and like 100+g per rim heavier than my carbon 50 & 38s. I miss the alloy brake track sometimes but don't want to give up my light, aero 23mm wide rims.

Don't know what you consider light. Dura Ace WH-R9100-C40 have an alloy brake track and a claimed weight of 1500g.

[Lelandjt]

^Yeah, that's 100g per wheel heavier than my current 38/50mm set. I could live with it and maybe when my current wheels are "worn out" I'll go that sort of route but for now I can't get myself to replace perfectly good wheels (with kinda crappy braking) with something a half pound heavier.

[mattr]

I have the hub already on my lightweights and a set of zipp 303’s so I know it’s ticking those boxes well.

SAves on having to adjust stop screws and cables as well, the cassette should be in exactly the same place. (ish)