The crankset is the one piece that actually can be swapped out pending third-party chainring options.
SRAM 2019?
Moderator: robbosmans
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yes, but it need time for third-party company to come up with their new product, so I think it's not a good time to change to Etap AXS...TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Tue Feb 12, 2019 6:09 am
The crankset is the one piece that actually can be swapped out pending third-party chainring options.
I am abuot to buy a new bike. Probaly a venge pro disc or a TMR. However I started looking at the 12sp from SRAM as I do prefer SRAM. However the infomation about replacing chainrings is that you have to send them back to be replaced to now making me look at the Venge or TMR instead.
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Aiming to get a Etap AXS 1x12 groupset and curious about this as I got a brand new Garbaruk chainring on my bike now. Tried today first with a Sram XX1 (like it over Red22) chain and then with an AXS chain on my Garbaruk chainring. Also tried both with a Sram X-Sync (11-speed) chainring and compared it with how it feels on a Sram Red AXS double crank. Can't find any difference and it seems to work fine to me? (just tried in a workstand as I didn't want to use a brand new chain from a brand new bike for real)TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Mon Feb 11, 2019 7:37 pmNefarious86 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 11, 2019 1:15 pmAXS will have a different chain pitch interaction due to the different roller size. Put smaller rollers into those teeth and wear/chain suck is not going to be pretty....
The chain pitch is still .5” The only thing that happens with increased roller size is the gap between rollers shrinks. The distance between pins stays the same. Therefore you can just design a chainring with a tooth profile that probably suits both.
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Can you measure chain roller diameter and cassette pitch?cerro wrote: ↑Wed Feb 13, 2019 7:46 pmAiming to get a Etap AXS 1x12 groupset and curious about this as I got a brand new Garbaruk chainring on my bike now. Tried today first with a Sram XX1 (like it over Red22) chain and then with an AXS chain on my Garbaruk chainring. Also tried both with a Sram X-Sync (11-speed) chainring and compared it with how it feels on a Sram Red AXS double crank. Can't find any difference and it seems to work fine to me? (just tried in a workstand as I didn't want to use a brand new chain from a brand new bike for real)TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Mon Feb 11, 2019 7:37 pmNefarious86 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 11, 2019 1:15 pmAXS will have a different chain pitch interaction due to the different roller size. Put smaller rollers into those teeth and wear/chain suck is not going to be pretty....
The chain pitch is still .5” The only thing that happens with increased roller size is the gap between rollers shrinks. The distance between pins stays the same. Therefore you can just design a chainring with a tooth profile that probably suits both.
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Would the deeper teeth not cause chain suck?
The pitch of the pins will be the same but the distance from roller to roller will be different meaning that one maybe 2 teath will engage the chain. I cant see how the non AXS chain will work with AXS road chainring teeth. The use of AXS Mtb parts with road levers seems to be based on the rear mech, casette and chain all being q mountain variant while the 1×road gear is a road casette, road chain and road chainring.
The pitch of the pins will be the same but the distance from roller to roller will be different meaning that one maybe 2 teath will engage the chain. I cant see how the non AXS chain will work with AXS road chainring teeth. The use of AXS Mtb parts with road levers seems to be based on the rear mech, casette and chain all being q mountain variant while the 1×road gear is a road casette, road chain and road chainring.
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The road chainrings are designed for the bigger rollers, but that means chains with smaller rollers will still work because the distance from the trailing edge of each roller to the trailing edge of the next is the same. Just imagine a MTB chainring that has been sharktoothed from years of use. It still works even though the teeth have gotten thinner.
The distance from trailing edge to leading edge doesn’t matter except if the teeth don’t physicslly fit in between.
The reason why the Eagle chain can’t be used with an eTap cassette is the difference in cog pitch (each cog is closer together.) The Eagle chain is around 5.25mm wide while the eTap AXS chain is 5.0mm.
The distance from trailing edge to leading edge doesn’t matter except if the teeth don’t physicslly fit in between.
The reason why the Eagle chain can’t be used with an eTap cassette is the difference in cog pitch (each cog is closer together.) The Eagle chain is around 5.25mm wide while the eTap AXS chain is 5.0mm.
They should have just said that clearly from the start. It sounds much better just than saying the road chain is the our strongest chain and you can't use it on Eagle, implying with the "flat top" designation that it's the link shape that plays a part in both the increased strength and incompatibility with Eagle. A narrower chain should be stronger.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sat Feb 16, 2019 6:31 pmThe road chainrings are designed for the bigger rollers, but that means chains with smaller rollers will still work because the distance from the trailing edge of each roller to the trailing edge of the next is the same. Just imagine a MTB chainring that has been sharktoothed from years of use. It still works even though the teeth have gotten thinner.
The distance from trailing edge to leading edge doesn’t matter except if the teeth don’t physicslly fit in between.
The reason why the Eagle chain can’t be used with an eTap cassette is the difference in cog pitch (each cog is closer together.) The Eagle chain is around 5.25mm wide while the eTap AXS chain is 5.0mm.
What, like Red Etap 12 was worth waiting for....
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Heard this yesterday on a ride.
This true?
Without going through the whole 70 pages, can someone enlighten me?
How does the chainrings connect to the "spider" or then rather the Quarq powermeter? Can it be seperated?
Or is this true that when the chainrings go, you throw everything away?
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Spinnekop wrote: ↑Thu Feb 28, 2019 7:57 am
Heard this yesterday on a ride.
This true?
Without going through the whole 70 pages, can someone enlighten me?
How does the chainrings connect to the "spider" or then rather the Quarq powermeter? Can it be seperated?
Or is this true that when the chainrings go, you throw everything away?
The Quarq PM is integrated into the chainrings. There is no removable spider. The cost of the PM chainrings is US$820 but you will be able to trade-in for ~$410. Non-PM chainrings cost $300.
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Thank you kind sir for the info. It is appreciated.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Thu Feb 28, 2019 8:42 amSpinnekop wrote: ↑Thu Feb 28, 2019 7:57 am
Heard this yesterday on a ride.
This true?
Without going through the whole 70 pages, can someone enlighten me?
How does the chainrings connect to the "spider" or then rather the Quarq powermeter? Can it be seperated?
Or is this true that when the chainrings go, you throw everything away?
The Quarq PM is integrated into the chainrings. There is no removable spider. The cost of the PM chainrings is US$820 but you will be able to trade-in for ~$410. Non-PM chainrings cost $300.
"In my experience, there is only one motivation, and that is DESIRE.
No reason or principle contain it or stand against it........"
No reason or principle contain it or stand against it........"