Disc Brake Tolerances - specs?
Moderator: robbosmans
bit of a strange question, but does actually anyone know the tolerances between the brake pad and the rotor for the various disc groupsets?
Most interested in if the new Shimano Ultegra R8000 groupset runs closer to the rotor than the old RS685/785, but I haven't read anything in the reviews about this being the case (or not being the case), so does anyone have the actual specifications on this?
reason for asking is the smaller that pad-rotor gap the higher the likelihood the disc will rub on the pads if anything is slightly off.
Most interested in if the new Shimano Ultegra R8000 groupset runs closer to the rotor than the old RS685/785, but I haven't read anything in the reviews about this being the case (or not being the case), so does anyone have the actual specifications on this?
reason for asking is the smaller that pad-rotor gap the higher the likelihood the disc will rub on the pads if anything is slightly off.
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This is the inherent fault with all current hydraulic road disc brake systems........until they design a method of retracting the pistons further away and thus the pads away from the rotor, brake rub will always be a problem......the magnitude of which depends upon your own tolerance(pun intended) to the shim shim shim sound.
All setups currently rely on the deformation of square shouldered seals that will reconform to their natural shape once the pressure of the hydraulic fluid has been released by releasing the brake levers. This seems like an easy no maintenance low weight solution but does not allow a sufficient pad rotor gap in my opinion.
All setups currently rely on the deformation of square shouldered seals that will reconform to their natural shape once the pressure of the hydraulic fluid has been released by releasing the brake levers. This seems like an easy no maintenance low weight solution but does not allow a sufficient pad rotor gap in my opinion.
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Then throw in the variable of the disc not being in the same place on the wheel... I have 2 sets of wheels on my CX bike, both DT SWISS... I needed to put a pedal washer between the bearing and dustcap to add an offset to realign the disc down the middle... frustrating...
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Problem with mine was the rotor was too far outboard, and really close to the seatstay (Stevens Super Presitige Post mount) so I had to do the washer deal to force alignment to the driveside slightly...
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There is available movement in the brake itself to move it, but the rotor itself was probably less than a mm from the actual chainstay.. any hard flexing would probably cause the rotor to hit the frame (especially getting smashed around in cross)
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My SRAM HRD calipers give maybe a half millimeter of clearance on either side of the rotor and never get brake rub. If you do, true your rotors and align your calipers properly.
If your caliper is centered (loosen bolts, pull brake handle a few times, tighten caliper while pulled) and your wheel is fully tightened, then you may need to shim the rotor. I know there are 6-bolt shims from a few sources. For centerlock/afs, I've had to pull the washer off another centerlock hub.
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Half milimeter ? Sound a lot. My Sram Red no hrd (same caliper) it's like 1/3 milimeter or less.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:36 pmMy SRAM HRD calipers give maybe a half millimeter of clearance on either side of the rotor
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Hmm I'll look into the shifting caliper... My DT Swiss38 carbon tubs have the rotor well inside the seatstay while the clinchers R32 splines ae shifted... DT Swiss said this was entirely normal because they are different hubs..
I can only squeeze a business card between rotors and pads (DA, not Sram), so max 0.2mm, but no rub 99,9% of the time.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:36 pmMy SRAM HRD calipers give maybe a half millimeter of clearance on either side of the rotor and never get brake rub. If you do, true your rotors and align your calipers properly.
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Some of the DH bikes i've worked on have less clearance than that. Not seeing any rub on those either. Even with all the slop in pivots and ~10" of travel......... i doubt you could get your rotor to touch the frame unless you actually bent it. Or the hub bearings failed.ParisCarbon wrote: ↑Mon Jun 11, 2018 5:29 pmbut the rotor itself was probably less than a mm from the actual chainstay.. any hard flexing would probably cause the rotor to hit the frame (especially getting smashed around in cross)
unfortunately those specs don't include pad return distance which is what I was after...
I was a bit curious if anyone had done the measurements to see if any company has greater clearance between pads/rotor or if it's changed with the updated shimano groupset, but it doesn't look like that's the case.
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