C60 rear brake cable woes

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bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Maybe I had trouble because it was late when I was doing this and I was tired. The rear brake cable routing though looks odd. the opening in the top tube near the head tube for the cable is fixed and will only allow the cable in. the opening in the other end is more open but again the insert does not come out.

The campagnolo brake cable is not magnetic so cannot be guided. given the nature of the inserts in the top top the PArk Tool IR 1.2 is of no help either. so what trick am I missing. My phone died so I can not take a pic.

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Cervelolite
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by Cervelolite

i just send the cable into the Top Tube (without the sleeve) and fish it out with some tweezers at the Seat tube end. Dont forget to put a ferrule on the brake cable housing (campy sadly dont supply these with the cable kit). Also there's plently of threads about a gritty rear brake cable pull - Calnago posted some ways to make it smoother.

If i'm not wrong you take the sleeve out when you put the cable in anyway...the instructions say its just to make it easier to thread the cable through the frame. I ended up cutting mine sleeve shorter to try and resolve the gritty cable pull i refer above.

Not sure if i have interpreted your issue correctly - without a photo it is hard...

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

The frame was handed to me with no sleeve which would explain why it is such a pain. I thought there was something odd. My wife will look at me oddly when I take her tweezers tomorrow.

mattr
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by mattr

Tweezers, torch, dentists mirror = raised eyebrow and a "wtf are you doing down there?"

Saying that, my wife has 10mm ring spanners stashed everywhere. Handbag, kit bag, work bag. Useful tool for Norwegian resets on cars. (Battery off, cup of tea, battery on.)

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

I think i am in for a morning of swearing tomorrow. A good long ride is going to be needed to prepare myself in the morning.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

I feel your pain, but don't panic.

Here's a link to the relevant post in my C60 build.
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/foru ... 5#p1274393

Note to link above: If you're using Tapatalk the links just take you to the thread, not the actual individual post, so if you are using tapatalk, the relevant post is #57 in the thread. It's a long thread so that should make it easier to find.


I've learned more since then... but for your purposes a few points...

1) Virtually everything has to be accessed throught the rear exit port.2) The campy brake cables are steel and definitely stick to magnets.
3) The best magnet to use is the little rod that Campy supplies with Fulcrum MoMag or whatever they call the wheels where you have to guide the nipples to the holes with a magnet. Works perfect for this. There's a picture of it in the thread I linked to.
4) You can try just running the cables through the frame with no rubber o-ringed liner, and just a couple of alloy ferrules at the stops, but it will likely have a rough feeling as the cable makes it way around the edge of the port covers. Caution: If you do use a bit of a liner that ends up inside with o-rings around it, make sure you have a plan for getting it out. What I did, was before removing the brake inner cable I pull it out from the front some, but don't let the rear slide in... then I put a little piece of tape around the inner which will help push the liner inside to the rear port so you can access it and pull it out.
5) It helps if you've got a set of little picks, although if things go well the magnet above is all you should need. The big magnet in the Park cable routing kit is too big to fit in the port hole. The magnet I used will just fit in that hole and you can carefully latch on to the end of the cable and guide it out quite easily.
6) It's a process, and frustrating the first time. Having some cable liner on hand is a good thing.
Good luck.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
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Kimmoth
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by Kimmoth

In the absence of cable liner, a good trick (especially with a new cable) is to put a bend an inch or two from the end, and twirl the cable when the end is next to the port. Probably the best way to do that is to have the end of the cable poking out of the lever and use pliers to turn it if necessary.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Even with strong Nb-Fe-B magnets there is barely any attraction to a magnet. Certainly much less attraction than you get with shamans cables and u gave already tried with a whole clump of strong magnets I can't get the cable to move reliably against its own weight.

I think the solution will be to hang the bike rear wheel facing down in the stand and fish it out that way. Sitting on the throne and thinking always brings a solution.

Campagnolo cables are made from steels with a high austenite content which means lots of chromium and nickel which is why they last for so long.

For such an expensive bike colnago could have put a guide on there.

When I am ruler this will be law.
Last edited by bm0p700f on Sat Jun 09, 2018 7:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

There barely space for tweezers in there certainly no space for pliers.

NickJHP
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by NickJHP

If the frame is missing internal guides, what I do is:
  • Put a vacuum cleaner nozzle at one of the cable entry points and use it to suck a length of cotton thread through from the other entry point.
  • Tie one end of the thread to a brake cable inner using a pipe hitch and pull the brake cable inner through the frame.
  • Use the brake cable inner as a guide to pull the cable outer through the frame.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Done with the bike at a funny angle upright and tilted towards the floor. I was simply tired and fed up last night and just got passed off with it. Took 5 minutes this morning with some tweezers.

There's a lesson leave a job for the next day, it might be easier then.

All of the above tricks would have failed on this frame which is why I did not try them.

Partially done with some old wheels in to get the eps set up. Image

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micky
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by micky

By my experience;

put cable inside; when it reachs the cable hole near the seatpost use a small size allen key to direct the cable out while pushing from the other side.
It takes a few minutes but not big deal.

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chris8382
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by chris8382

I recently used the “twirl the cable” technique and got it done in less than 5min. I had thought it would be a much more laborious process, but it turned out to be fairly easy. That was without an inner liner, obviously. And while I am sure some could not bear the thought of not using a liner, it works just fine with no issues in brake feel (Chorus levers and brakes).
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Calnago
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by Calnago

The frames come new with a liner to run the cable through. That liner is not meant to be left in the frame.
But if you simply use a ferrule on each end of the brake housing where it enters and exits the top tube, you will likely experience some roughness in the action as the bare cable rubs directly against the edges of the internal carbon edges of the ports upon entry and exit. To prevent that, you can use a couple of short pieces of liner, flared at one end to prevent the whole thing from slipping through the holes, and placed in the holes first with the ferrules butting up against it.
That should get you to the point where the operation is silky smooth with no rough feeling.
And the last thing to consider is whether or not the noise of the internal cable hitting against the inside of the top tube is bothersome to you or not. If it is, that’s where the internal piece of liner with the attached o-rings comes into play.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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Calnago
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by Calnago

This thread inspired me to finally tend to something on my own bike. But since I was at it, and this thread was active, I thought I'd just see if I could show a running of the C60 brake cable without a guide. The final install will have a small piece of flared tubing going in from the front to prevent rub on the inside carbon as it makes the bend, and the rear long piece of liner will have little rubber o-rings attached to it to prevent the noise from the cable hitting the inside of the top tube when going over rough stuff... but for now, here's routing the brake cable....
https://vimeo.com/274281066#t=0s
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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