From EPS to Di2.... Advise and Feedback!
Moderator: robbosmans
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- Posts: 218
- Joined: Mon Oct 02, 2017 5:46 am
I know that the Wahoo Bolt counts front and rear gear changes separately. See the pic I attached above.
I guess one day I could just go around the block and test how accurate the counting is.
I guess one day I could just go around the block and test how accurate the counting is.
2017 Giant TCR Advanced Pro 0 Disc
2003 Cannondale R1000 (CAAD7)
2003 Cannondale R1000 (CAAD7)
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Hmmm... if I made an app that told you how many times a day you blink, would you like that? Would it change the way you go about your day? I’m still waiting for anything about electric shifting that would compel me to want it. So far... nada.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
For me it isn't one thing, but a combination of many things that make the experience of electronic over mechanical just so much better e.g. auto FD trim, pinky-touch shifting to the big ring, set it and forget it maintenance i.e. no cable stretch, ability to change Garmin pages with buttons, current gear ratio on Garmin, customizable buttons, push and hold button to dump entire cassette block, syncro shift (don't use it in the summer, but in the winter with gloves it's quite useful), and most importantly, that deadly sound when shifting the FD
De Rosa Idol - 6.63kg viewtopic.php?f=10&t=153136&p=1572170#p1572170
Yeah, I get it... people like electric. That’s cool.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
I think syncro is pretty compelling.
A few years ago I was mucking around in Excel with gear ratios, trying to find a solution to the problem of gears getting further apart as you go faster, and I did find a solution, that if you graph the ratios for you get a nice smooth straight line instead of one that curves upwards. Of course, it's a half-step triple, using 38/50/52 (unfortunately that combo is pretty much the only option for a smooth line).
I got a crankset together using spacers, long bolts and a 110/130 38t to hang it all together, with the small ring a couple of mm inboard from the usual spot, the 50t in line with spider, and the 52t quite close to the 50t. This was a proof of concept for the clearances and chainlines; it allowed access to all the required combinations quite nicely, and was possible to friction shift with a double FD, although the 110 50t flexed badly thanks to the miserable load path, and the shifting suffered further from the fact that tailored tooth profiles and FD cage would have been necessary for the shift quality we're accustomed to these days.
I got hold of an Arduino, a suitable battery and some servos, learnt how to code C++, and got the servos responding appropriately to button presses, but I ran out of steam when it came to connecting the servos to my derailers... I had it pretty much worked out, but it was gonna suck somewhat without at least a properly engineered front derailer, let alone chainrings (which could be fitted to a standard double crank)...
Anyway, the whole point is, nobody would bother with this if you had to shift it manually, but syncro is a game-changer for this idea.
If anybody's wondering why I went to all that trouble, just consider that air resistance is proportional to the cube of your speed, and if you were to put a human on a dyno, you'd see a power curve that peaks more or less sharply at a particular rpm. Now consider that because we're stuck with many cogs and few rings, rather than vice versa, gear ratios do exactly the wrong thing - they get wider the taller they get. This blows.
A few years ago I was mucking around in Excel with gear ratios, trying to find a solution to the problem of gears getting further apart as you go faster, and I did find a solution, that if you graph the ratios for you get a nice smooth straight line instead of one that curves upwards. Of course, it's a half-step triple, using 38/50/52 (unfortunately that combo is pretty much the only option for a smooth line).
I got a crankset together using spacers, long bolts and a 110/130 38t to hang it all together, with the small ring a couple of mm inboard from the usual spot, the 50t in line with spider, and the 52t quite close to the 50t. This was a proof of concept for the clearances and chainlines; it allowed access to all the required combinations quite nicely, and was possible to friction shift with a double FD, although the 110 50t flexed badly thanks to the miserable load path, and the shifting suffered further from the fact that tailored tooth profiles and FD cage would have been necessary for the shift quality we're accustomed to these days.
I got hold of an Arduino, a suitable battery and some servos, learnt how to code C++, and got the servos responding appropriately to button presses, but I ran out of steam when it came to connecting the servos to my derailers... I had it pretty much worked out, but it was gonna suck somewhat without at least a properly engineered front derailer, let alone chainrings (which could be fitted to a standard double crank)...
Anyway, the whole point is, nobody would bother with this if you had to shift it manually, but syncro is a game-changer for this idea.
If anybody's wondering why I went to all that trouble, just consider that air resistance is proportional to the cube of your speed, and if you were to put a human on a dyno, you'd see a power curve that peaks more or less sharply at a particular rpm. Now consider that because we're stuck with many cogs and few rings, rather than vice versa, gear ratios do exactly the wrong thing - they get wider the taller they get. This blows.
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- Posts: 1927
- Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:39 am
- Location: Winnipeg Canada
Yes... faster, easier, and more precise when its dialed in and working properly... Ive noticed the slightest little misalignment of the RD hanger will throw my Di2 out vs my Super Record mech where I will still get a positive shift out of it even if its not setup "perfect"... Don't get me wrong, both are great systems in my opinion, contimplating putting SR 12 Mech on my 2015 Cannondale EVO since it doesnt have electronic drilling.
I will admit to having turned the rear derailleur screw once or maybe twice in the 8 years I've owned my 7970 Di2. One time I think I turned the screw clockwise, and then stopped a mile later to turn it back counter. So not sure I even adjusted it that time. It shifts perfectly all the time. So this "when its dialed in" thing you speak of, I do not know what that is. I've bent a rear derailleur hanger. Shifting was not "positive" after that. Shifting was awful until I straightened the hanger with the Park tool or replaced the hanger.ParisCarbon wrote: ↑Tue Jun 12, 2018 2:13 amYes... faster, easier, and more precise when its dialed in and working properly... Ive noticed the slightest little misalignment of the RD hanger will throw my Di2 out vs my Super Record mech where I will still get a positive shift out of it even if its not setup "perfect"... Don't get me wrong, both are great systems in my opinion, contimplating putting SR 12 Mech on my 2015 Cannondale EVO since it doesnt have electronic drilling.
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- Posts: 1927
- Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:39 am
- Location: Winnipeg Canada
Mine has been very picky... I dunno if its the ceramic speed pulleys or what... Mine is the 9070 Di2... The slightest out of the RD hangar makes Di2 finicky where my SR mech just keeps on going... dunno.... it works... Ive also had the whole Di2 shutdown for 5 minutes with no explanation and then work again.. never did find a fault... ghosts...RussellS wrote: ↑Tue Jun 12, 2018 4:53 pmI will admit to having turned the rear derailleur screw once or maybe twice in the 8 years I've owned my 7970 Di2. One time I think I turned the screw clockwise, and then stopped a mile later to turn it back counter. So not sure I even adjusted it that time. It shifts perfectly all the time. So this "when its dialed in" thing you speak of, I do not know what that is. I've bent a rear derailleur hanger. Shifting was not "positive" after that. Shifting was awful until I straightened the hanger with the Park tool or replaced the hanger.ParisCarbon wrote: ↑Tue Jun 12, 2018 2:13 amYes... faster, easier, and more precise when its dialed in and working properly... Ive noticed the slightest little misalignment of the RD hanger will throw my Di2 out vs my Super Record mech where I will still get a positive shift out of it even if its not setup "perfect"... Don't get me wrong, both are great systems in my opinion, contimplating putting SR 12 Mech on my 2015 Cannondale EVO since it doesnt have electronic drilling.
It does have an inner limit screw though, as insurance against shifting into the spokes.
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