EPS rear derailleur dead
Moderator: robbosmans
Have anyone else encountered that the rear derailleur on a EPS system has stopped working?
On yesterdays ride i was suddenly only able to shift down on the cassette, until it was on the smallest cog. The battery is charged and the front derailleur works fine.
When putting the system in adjustment mode I seem to be able to do micro adjustment downwards but not up again.
Any tips before i contact a mechanic.
On yesterdays ride i was suddenly only able to shift down on the cassette, until it was on the smallest cog. The battery is charged and the front derailleur works fine.
When putting the system in adjustment mode I seem to be able to do micro adjustment downwards but not up again.
Any tips before i contact a mechanic.
What can you do? I would try disconnecting and remaking the plug connection but beyond that I can't think of anything.
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I was going to ask the same questions. I've never heard of a derailleur going bad -- it's just a motor. This sounds a lot like when my V1 power unit went bad. If the derailleeur went bad, you should have a warning light.
1. check the rear derailleur connector.
2. visually inspect the wire.
3. see if you can test the derailleur on a friends bike
I am on V3, and the derailleur was shifting to heavier gear so neither lock mode or broken cable seem to be the problem.
And yes i kind of regret going from mechanical to EPS. Perhaps one should admit that the japanese are better at electronic devices than the Italians Less issues with Di2 than with EPS is my experience.
And yes i kind of regret going from mechanical to EPS. Perhaps one should admit that the japanese are better at electronic devices than the Italians Less issues with Di2 than with EPS is my experience.
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Use the diagnostics. It maybe a simple fault. Di2 goes wrong to. V3 EPS is pretty good like V2 and v1 before it.
My wife's bike with di2 is non functional. Again diagnostics will reveal all.
My wife's bike with di2 is non functional. Again diagnostics will reveal all.
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It kept moving down. Have you tried to reach in and twist the output shaft to see if it's mechanically unable to move up (careful, it's a pinch point, disconnect the derailleur is recommended.... ALSO, if you do this you'll confuse the zero setting, so you'll have to resetup your rear derailleur in full by holding both buttons to enter zero setting mode, not just one). As mentioned, the EPS derailleur has no brains, just position sensors and drive lines to the DC brushed motor. So not going up, if it's not mechanically jammed preventing rotation, means the problem likely lies in the power unit and not the derailleur.
If it is mechanically jammed from moving up that likely means the derailleur is going into over current. This would be noticable if you tried to upshift and the downshift was unresponsive for a second or two. If you try to upshift then immediately downshit and it shifts..... I'm fairly certain power unit.
Also, there are instances like older firmware updates that can loose zero settings. Have you tried zero setting it again?
If it is mechanically jammed from moving up that likely means the derailleur is going into over current. This would be noticable if you tried to upshift and the downshift was unresponsive for a second or two. If you try to upshift then immediately downshit and it shifts..... I'm fairly certain power unit.
Also, there are instances like older firmware updates that can loose zero settings. Have you tried zero setting it again?
Yes but there are no lights flashing indicating an error. I get the normal blue etc lights when setting the system to zero reset mode etc. But i am only able to shift it outwards. Not inwards.
I am thinking perhaps there is a problem with the button on the brake shifter itself.
I am thinking perhaps there is a problem with the button on the brake shifter itself.
There is a small grub screw inside the lever and seems to adjust the contact point of the shift button on the microswitch...i experienced some intermittent shift issues and this solved it as there was not quite enough contact. You can test this by removing the lever cover and pressing the microswitch button with a screwdriver or similar.
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I initally didn't think of this. The left and right shifter connectors are indexed, and while not recommended you can force the left and right into opposite connectors -- the indexing is rather weak. Then you'd be able to test this theory. It's certainly a more propable theory. I mean worse case pull the hoods back and remoe cover and press the button with the end of something like the blunt side of a pen.
Roadhog44 mentioned the grub screw inside. If this was loose it could have lost the spring and plunger that actually pushes the button, or just backed out a little maybe and needs adjustment.
Service diagnositics page in the app would show the problem clearly as it shows which button you're pressing. You've already mentioned that you don't have access to this page. Could just fill in the request form and see if they add you.
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It turned out the problem was on the brake shifter button, and my LBS will order a new one but it might apparently take months before it arrives...
In the meanwhile i can use the system. I just changed the setting to "left shifter only" via the app. The two shifting buttons operate the rear, and the mode button operate the front. I will get used to it I suppose, and most important I can use the bike while I wait.
Thanks for all suggestions and tips.
In the meanwhile i can use the system. I just changed the setting to "left shifter only" via the app. The two shifting buttons operate the rear, and the mode button operate the front. I will get used to it I suppose, and most important I can use the bike while I wait.
Thanks for all suggestions and tips.