Supersix Build

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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calv1n
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 8:27 am

by calv1n

Thought I’d share as this is pretty much my dream bike and I love how it has come together .

From hill climbs to time trials it is a delight.

Image

Image

2016 hi mod frame (52) stripped by Kustomflow - reduced weight from 880g to 680. Fork at 240g.

Bora one 50 clinchers with cotton turbos (26mm)

C-bear BB

Stock headset and seat post clamp

42cm ergonova bars, lizard skin tape.

100mm enve stem and mount

SRAM etap with Red Quarq PM

Darimo seat post

Berk Lupina saddle

Dura Ace pedals

Tune 2.0 bottle cage

6.36kg - could be much lighter but I like all the kit on it.

Thanks for looking.


Last edited by calv1n on Sun May 27, 2018 12:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

by Weenie


alcatraz
Posts: 972
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

Nice bike. The frame and fork are so light they are a little bit wasted on.the final weight. :)

Chain looks a bit on the short side. So does the brake cable housing front/rear.

The bartape on the second pic is very generously wrapped near the shifter. Is this to solve some comfort issues?

Is the seatpost clamp supposed to be with the bolt in the front? Isn't the gap in the seat tube at the back?

Just a few observations. I would like to have a supersix weenie bike myself.

/a

calv1n
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 8:27 am

by calv1n

alcatraz wrote:Nice bike. The frame and fork are so light they are a little bit wasted on.the final weight. Image

Chain looks a bit on the short side. So does the brake cable housing front/rear.

The bartape on the second pic is very generously wrapped near the shifter. Is this to solve some comfort issues?

Is the seatpost clamp supposed to be with the bolt in the front? Isn't the gap in the seat tube at the back?

Just a few observations. I would like to have a supersix weenie bike myself.

/a
Thanks for the thoughts A.

Agreed - the frame, fork, seatpost (67g) and saddle (65g) are definitely worthy of something a little more weenie, but then I like the wheels, gruppo, PM, stem etc and the light stuff keeps the weight down for the rest..

I felt like I needed the brake cable housing as short as it is because the red callipers get pushed off centre otherwise (unless I’m doing something wrong).

You might be right about the chain but it shifts fine. Could I be damaging stuff if it’s too short?

I’ll have a look a rewrapping bar tape - no comfort issues..

Yes, clamp has to be that way round as it has a little notch on the non-bolt side that slots into seat post gap.

Cheers man. What do you have at present?

alcatraz
Posts: 972
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

I understand the red caliper brake housing length issue. I also have brakes of similar design and when the housing is stiff it's hard to not have it push or pull on the calipers. Well if it brakes fine then thats ok.

Less chain tension should give you a bit more quiet and efficient (watts saved) drivetrain. As long as you don't bottom out the derailleur in small/small. Some red derailleur cage axles have some wear issues that cause the cage to develop play. Less tension would probably help with that. I'm not sure if etap is affected.

My bike is nothing special. Cheapo Hongfu FM066SL build at 6kg with chinese zipp 404 clincher copies. Chinese time 12 pedals. Chinese bontrager xxx integrated handlebar copies. Planet-x cnc brakes. Sram red groupset, minus cannondale sisl2 crank.

That's the climber. My other bike is a cervelo s5 fake tt bike. Disc wheel, 88mm front. Got tt bars that arent adjustable so I have the base bar moved around to accomodate. 60mm stem :lol: , 25mm risers on the tt bars.

All the bikes run 10s because I noticed spare parts are dirt cheap.

I'm a lightweight guy only pushing around 250w ftp so I can survive and survive well on this fake stuff that was designed for thin asian people.

Cheers!

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4ibanez
Posts: 465
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2014 4:54 pm
Location: Norwich, UK
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by 4ibanez

Change the seatpost clamp. Seems a no brainer way to save 10g fairly cheap. Those rings look chunky, you could try a WW option (Extralite or Cannondale MK5 as per Ryan) to shave off 50-75g I'd guess. Brakes are expensive, but could be a big weight loss. Those would be my 3 targets :thumbup:

calv1n
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 8:27 am

by calv1n

alcatraz wrote:I understand the red caliper brake housing length issue. I also have brakes of similar design and when the housing is stiff it's hard to not have it push or pull on the calipers. Well if it brakes fine then thats ok.

Less chain tension should give you a bit more quiet and efficient (watts saved) drivetrain. As long as you don't bottom out the derailleur in small/small. Some red derailleur cage axles have some wear issues that cause the cage to develop play. Less tension would probably help with that. I'm not sure if etap is affected.

My bike is nothing special. Cheapo Hongfu FM066SL build at 6kg with chinese zipp 404 clincher copies. Chinese time 12 pedals. Chinese bontrager xxx integrated handlebar copies. Planet-x cnc brakes. Sram red groupset, minus cannondale sisl2 crank.

That's the climber. My other bike is a cervelo s5 fake tt bike. Disc wheel, 88mm front. Got tt bars that arent adjustable so I have the base bar moved around to accomodate. 60mm stem :lol: , 25mm risers on the tt bars.

All the bikes run 10s because I noticed spare parts are dirt cheap.

I'm a lightweight guy only pushing around 250w ftp so I can survive and survive well on this fake stuff that was designed for thin asian people.

Cheers!
Cheers A. If the kit all works for you then that’s awesome - I imagine there isn’t much difference with the genuine articles. Makes good sense to use 10 speed too.

I’ll recheck the chain length - probably make it a link longer when I change it next Image

calv1n
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 8:27 am

by calv1n

4ibanez wrote:Change the seatpost clamp. Seems a no brainer way to save 10g fairly cheap. Those rings look chunky, you could try a WW option (Extralite or Cannondale MK5 as per Ryan) to shave off 50-75g I'd guess. Brakes are expensive, but could be a big weight loss. Those would be my 3 targets :thumbup:
Thanks for the thoughts Ibanez. You’ve got me looking at eebrakes now!

I couldn’t find a large mk5 chainring..

Also, does anyone know whether extralite would shift as well as sram chainrings?

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4ibanez
Posts: 465
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2014 4:54 pm
Location: Norwich, UK
Contact:

by 4ibanez

No they won't shift as well. Like a lot of things when you bring the weight down you compromise performance or durability.

I found Extralite to be perfectly good even with a modded 46g FD, although others have had issues. As someone who has light weight as an important consideration I think Extralite is probably the best overall WW ring (although not found MKVs for myself). I'm currently on 11s Fibre Lytes with the same FD, and I got it shifting fairly reliably (but not fast/easy) but still I wouldn't be surprised if I dropped a chain with them in certain conditions. They are juuuuuust within my tolerance of acceptable performance.

What I'm getting at, is are you willing to compromise, and where do you set the bar for cost, function, durability, looks?

alcatraz
Posts: 972
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

Call me crazy but cheap sram 10s powerglide rings in 50/34 are 33gr lighter than sram red. They also cost nearly nothing. Sure shifting is a bit worse but they work and they are sram (truvativ). Next step (another 30gr) is extralite but here I wouldn't go larger than 50/34. Extralite can lose it's shape and 50/34 is probably the least likely to do so.

/a

calv1n
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 8:27 am

by calv1n

4ibanez wrote:No they won't shift as well. Like a lot of things when you bring the weight down you compromise performance or durability.

I found Extralite to be perfectly good even with a modded 46g FD, although others have had issues. As someone who has light weight as an important consideration I think Extralite is probably the best overall WW ring (although not found MKVs for myself). I'm currently on 11s Fibre Lytes with the same FD, and I got it shifting fairly reliably (but not fast/easy) but still I wouldn't be surprised if I dropped a chain with them in certain conditions. They are juuuuuust within my tolerance of acceptable performance.

What I'm getting at, is are you willing to compromise, and where do you set the bar for cost, function, durability, looks?
I probably go functionality then weight / looks then cost, so will most likely stick with slightly heavier chainrings in favour of them shifting well Image

reedplayer
Posts: 312
Joined: Sat Nov 14, 2015 10:10 am

by reedplayer

calv1n wrote:
Sun May 27, 2018 12:28 pm


2016 hi mod frame (52) stripped by Kustomflow - reduced weight from 880g to 680. Fork at 240g.

wow, a weight reduction of 200 gr. is a hell of a lot (the more on a 52-size-frame).

i stripped a couple of glossy painted frames (cannondale caad4-white, size 56/stevens slc-multi-coloured, size 54/isaac sonic-blue, size 52...), and never saved more than 100 gr.

may i ask which paintjob it was before frame has been stripped?
thanks, regards

by Weenie


calv1n
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 8:27 am

by calv1n

reedplayer wrote:
calv1n wrote:
Sun May 27, 2018 12:28 pm


2016 hi mod frame (52) stripped by Kustomflow - reduced weight from 880g to 680. Fork at 240g.

wow, a weight reduction of 200 gr. is a hell of a lot (the more on a 52-size-frame).

i stripped a couple of glossy painted frames (cannondale caad4-white, size 56/stevens slc-multi-coloured, size 54/isaac sonic-blue, size 52...), and never saved more than 100 gr.

may i ask which paintjob it was before frame has been stripped?
thanks, regards
The guy who stripped it, kustomflow (who was great) said there were about 8 coats of paint and he’d never seen so much on a high end frame.

It was this

Image

I’ve read that when cannondale made it, they kept the paint thick because they didn’t want it too much under UCI limit.

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