SuperSix Evo 2016 bottom bracket help
Moderator: robbosmans
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Hello,
I am looking for a bottom bracket (ceramic) for my 2016 Cannondale SuperSix Evo HiMod. I have found several products and obtained several recommendations and in effect, I am slightly confused:
Kogel - say to use PF30-L, Shallow insert:
https://www.kogel.cc/collections/cannon ... rnal-wires
C bear - PF30A Cannondale Super Six Evo, this one: https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/bott ... 0-fsa-sram
Ceramic Speed - tells me I only need bearings: http://www.ceramicspeed.com/sport/produ ... 2&sku=BB30
Now... who is right, and which one is the lightest? I mean, with Kogel and C Bear, it looks like I would be installing a whole "cups and sleeve" contraption which is certainly heavier than just bearings in the Ceramicspeed kit, no?
Or, does the Ceramicspeed kit re-use cups that are inserted in the Cannondale frame, and the other two manufacturers provide new cups for the bearings?
All in all, I would not like to purchase a bottom bracket that will make my bike 50g heavier as I am going for a "reliable WW build", so please advise
Thank you.
I am looking for a bottom bracket (ceramic) for my 2016 Cannondale SuperSix Evo HiMod. I have found several products and obtained several recommendations and in effect, I am slightly confused:
Kogel - say to use PF30-L, Shallow insert:
https://www.kogel.cc/collections/cannon ... rnal-wires
C bear - PF30A Cannondale Super Six Evo, this one: https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/bott ... 0-fsa-sram
Ceramic Speed - tells me I only need bearings: http://www.ceramicspeed.com/sport/produ ... 2&sku=BB30
Now... who is right, and which one is the lightest? I mean, with Kogel and C Bear, it looks like I would be installing a whole "cups and sleeve" contraption which is certainly heavier than just bearings in the Ceramicspeed kit, no?
Or, does the Ceramicspeed kit re-use cups that are inserted in the Cannondale frame, and the other two manufacturers provide new cups for the bearings?
All in all, I would not like to purchase a bottom bracket that will make my bike 50g heavier as I am going for a "reliable WW build", so please advise
Thank you.
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Not sure about the CeramicSpeed stuff, but my buddy has the Kogel BB in his 2016 Super Six Evo and it has been awesome from a creaking standpoint. Totally silent. To me that is worth 50 grams!!
Last edited by Bigger Gear on Thu May 17, 2018 7:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The CeramicSpeed you've listed is not the equivalent of the other two as it is a BB30 kit not a PF30A kit. It won't fit on it's own.
The direct solution for the Evo is the PF4630, a similar 'contraption' to the others. http://www.ceramicspeed.com/sport/produ ... ht/386EVO)
The direct solution for the Evo is the PF4630, a similar 'contraption' to the others. http://www.ceramicspeed.com/sport/produ ... ht/386EVO)
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Ok, great, thank you,
so, all in all I am looking at weight savings of approx. 45g using the stock cups and bearings, rather than the other setups?
so, all in all I am looking at weight savings of approx. 45g using the stock cups and bearings, rather than the other setups?
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I was similarly confused and gave up and ordered the c-bear!
Would be interested in weight differences compared to the ‘stock’ item. Will publish weight of c-bear when it turns up. Any idea what stock spec is?
The other point to note is that the 2016 hi mod should be PF30a (the bottom bracket is 5mm wider than PF30. I believe the c-bear you need may be different to the one linked above. You should check before you buy.
The sales pitch of c-bear, if I understand it that the B.B. is sized both to the B.B. width and crank type, avoiding the need for spacers (although that may be sales BS)
Oh, and if you get from sigma sports GIRO20 will get you £20 off!
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Would be interested in weight differences compared to the ‘stock’ item. Will publish weight of c-bear when it turns up. Any idea what stock spec is?
The other point to note is that the 2016 hi mod should be PF30a (the bottom bracket is 5mm wider than PF30. I believe the c-bear you need may be different to the one linked above. You should check before you buy.
The sales pitch of c-bear, if I understand it that the B.B. is sized both to the B.B. width and crank type, avoiding the need for spacers (although that may be sales BS)
Oh, and if you get from sigma sports GIRO20 will get you £20 off!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited by Beancouter on Thu May 17, 2018 7:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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I believe - based on a quick google search - we are looking at somewhere around 60 g for the cups and bearings, and 100g+ for the "contraption".
No, he clearly linked to the PF30A version of the C-Bear.Beancouter wrote: ↑Thu May 17, 2018 7:54 pmThe other point to note is that the 2016 hi mod should be PF30a (the bottom bracket is 5mm wider than PF30. I believe the c-bear you need may be different to the one linked above.
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Wingguy - stand corrected - the link had the ‘a’ missing
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What kind of crankset do you have? I think that's a pretty important data point. I'd probably still take the weight hit, go with a thread together setup and forget about the BB for a few years instead of keep servicing it.
I've been a happy Kogel BB user during my the last 20k miles (2017 hm supersix). I've put them through hell. Great company, great support, great installation tools and description.
If I had to pick a new BB now, I'd probably go with wheels mfg and pick a nice steel bearking, like an angular contact one:
https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/c ... pf30a.html
I believe that the the ceramic BB/headset bearing thing is just pure marketing BS and a great steel bearings offer a much better value. The majority of the weight difference is in the shell and not in the bearings.
I've been a happy Kogel BB user during my the last 20k miles (2017 hm supersix). I've put them through hell. Great company, great support, great installation tools and description.
If I had to pick a new BB now, I'd probably go with wheels mfg and pick a nice steel bearking, like an angular contact one:
https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/c ... pf30a.html
I believe that the the ceramic BB/headset bearing thing is just pure marketing BS and a great steel bearings offer a much better value. The majority of the weight difference is in the shell and not in the bearings.
The supersix has a cable guide under the BB shell. The gear cables should be routed through the guide, under the BB.
The cable passes the spindle mega close though, like in this vid. I would have thought it would touch a sleeved bottom bracket?
I'm using hollowgram crankset
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBI1UUx4jDE
I'm using hollowgram crankset
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBI1UUx4jDE
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Holy thread resurrection Batman!
Did anybody find the weight of the stock BB in the end? And long term reviews of the C Bear or Kogel BBs?
Did anybody find the weight of the stock BB in the end? And long term reviews of the C Bear or Kogel BBs?
Cannondale SSEvo3 'Atticus' - 7.2kg
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161634
Cannondale Systemsix ’Dante’ - 7.7kg
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=167144
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161634
Cannondale Systemsix ’Dante’ - 7.7kg
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=167144
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I have Cbear BB and in the beginning a mechanic put Motorex grease and I heared crick crick climbing until I went to another mechanic that he put glue between BB and frame. He said me that in pressfit it is always that way, that the other mechanics have no idea. I read also that Cannondale recommends Loctite 609. I have done about 50000 kms and perfect.
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