bearing Tarmac
Moderator: robbosmans
Hello I have a Sworks Tarmac sl5.
I must renew the bearings of the bracket. I think it 's a BB30.
Which should I buy, Ceramic speed, Rotor, ... (link)
Are these tools good to use to remove the bearing en replace the new ones?
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/kaufen/ ... bb30-42907
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/kaufen/ ... ger-500289
I must renew the bearings of the bracket. I think it 's a BB30.
Which should I buy, Ceramic speed, Rotor, ... (link)
Are these tools good to use to remove the bearing en replace the new ones?
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/kaufen/ ... bb30-42907
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/kaufen/ ... ger-500289
- IrrelevantD
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So it's possible that it's OSBB and not truely BB30. Not sure what year the SL5 was, if it's a 2014 or earlier, probably OSBB. If it has an aluminium sleeve, should be fully BB30 compatible. Nutshell, same inside diameter size, different shell width, not sure if the outside diameter is going to be the same, but it might make a difference on what bearings you need. Kogel has a good write up on OSBB here.
Tools should work either way, and I'm not going to weigh in too much on which bearings you should get other than to say in my personal opinion, ceramics in the BB are a bit of a waste unless you're racing at a Pro/Cat1 level and are concerned with fractions of a Watt. I question that you'd get any major benefit for the cost or that there's really that much benefit at all in the BB with the relatively low RPM and spread out loads, maybe in wheels, but not in the BB. I look for what's going to last the longest in the BB.
Tools should work either way, and I'm not going to weigh in too much on which bearings you should get other than to say in my personal opinion, ceramics in the BB are a bit of a waste unless you're racing at a Pro/Cat1 level and are concerned with fractions of a Watt. I question that you'd get any major benefit for the cost or that there's really that much benefit at all in the BB with the relatively low RPM and spread out loads, maybe in wheels, but not in the BB. I look for what's going to last the longest in the BB.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
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Its osbb whixh uses standard bb30 bearing in a reusable delrin cup. Yes to those tools. Get standard steel bearings but quality. I have over 10000k in some wheels manufacturing bearings in my sl3 and they still spin like new, have never changed geease. Have seen plenty of rain.
Evo 4.9kg SL3 6.64kg Slice RS 8.89kg viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Newer Carbon OSBB (Tarmac SL5) are reusable aluminum cups epoxied in with 3M DP 420. OP should just be able to remove the retaining clips and knock the 6806 bearings. I agree with you on the high quality steel bearings, I recommend: https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/bea ... 9864669123NiFTY wrote: ↑Tue May 15, 2018 9:05 pmIts osbb whixh uses standard bb30 bearing in a reusable delrin cup. Yes to those tools. Get standard steel bearings but quality. I have over 10000k in some wheels manufacturing bearings in my sl3 and they still spin like new, have never changed geease. Have seen plenty of rain.
Also, don't attempt to hammer out the epoxied in aluminum cups from your bottom bracket shell, the 3M DP420 has a really high shear strength. Regular maintenance on this bike is simply to replace the catridge bearings from the shell, treat this as you would a naked bb30 install.
Eventually if you have to replace the alu cups, you can consider modules like the bbinf one, but it requires scoring the alu cups and twisting them out until they crack. It's rather intimidating -- https://www.bbinfinite.com/blogs/news/s ... val-solved
Eventually if you have to replace the alu cups, you can consider modules like the bbinf one, but it requires scoring the alu cups and twisting them out until they crack. It's rather intimidating -- https://www.bbinfinite.com/blogs/news/s ... val-solved
So I have to order BB30 bearings?dvq wrote: ↑Tue May 15, 2018 11:08 pmNewer Carbon OSBB (Tarmac SL5) are reusable aluminum cups epoxied in with 3M DP 420. OP should just be able to remove the retaining clips and knock the 6806 bearings. I agree with you on the high quality steel bearings, I recommend: https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/bea ... 9864669123NiFTY wrote: ↑Tue May 15, 2018 9:05 pmIts osbb whixh uses standard bb30 bearing in a reusable delrin cup. Yes to those tools. Get standard steel bearings but quality. I have over 10000k in some wheels manufacturing bearings in my sl3 and they still spin like new, have never changed geease. Have seen plenty of rain.
Which clip I have to remove before I can knock out the bearing?
I can't find a dealer in europe/belgium of BBinfinite. What about
SKF https://www.onlinebearings.co.uk/6806-2 ... aring.html
enduro https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8; ... 1000,4,326
So a bearing of 20$-60$ is as good as my bearing of ceramic speed 250$-300$?
- IrrelevantD
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If you do a search, there are entire threads arguing the merrits of varius bearing brands... as I recal SKF rates highly. Personally, I'm using Wheels Mfg. thread together bottom brackets in both of my bikes (angular contact, I believe they use Enduro in their BBs).
As for Ceramic Speed bottom brackets... I'm going to say there are other places that you'd be better off spending $200-250 than on bottom bracket bearings that will give you more benefits. Lots of benefits to using ceramic bearings at 10,000rpms in industrial aplications... 80-120rpms on a bike... probably not as much.
As for Ceramic Speed bottom brackets... I'm going to say there are other places that you'd be better off spending $200-250 than on bottom bracket bearings that will give you more benefits. Lots of benefits to using ceramic bearings at 10,000rpms in industrial aplications... 80-120rpms on a bike... probably not as much.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
Yes, you should order just the bearings, you can re-use the retaining clips. The retaining clips should have a slot in them, they're shaped like a "C", you can use a screwdriver/pick to grab at one end of the C and get them out of the slot in the alloy cup.Timmy269 wrote: ↑Wed May 16, 2018 6:39 amSo I have to order BB30 bearings?dvq wrote: ↑Tue May 15, 2018 11:08 pmNewer Carbon OSBB (Tarmac SL5) are reusable aluminum cups epoxied in with 3M DP 420. OP should just be able to remove the retaining clips and knock the 6806 bearings. I agree with you on the high quality steel bearings, I recommend: https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/bea ... 9864669123NiFTY wrote: ↑Tue May 15, 2018 9:05 pmIts osbb whixh uses standard bb30 bearing in a reusable delrin cup. Yes to those tools. Get standard steel bearings but quality. I have over 10000k in some wheels manufacturing bearings in my sl3 and they still spin like new, have never changed geease. Have seen plenty of rain.
Which clip I have to remove before I can knock out the bearing?
I can't find a dealer in europe/belgium of BBinfinite. What about
SKF https://www.onlinebearings.co.uk/6806-2 ... aring.html
enduro https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8; ... 1000,4,326
So a bearing of 20$-60$ is as good as my bearing of ceramic speed 250$-300$?
If you're having a hard time visualizing how this works, attached is a photo of the bare alloy cups and the retaining clips. Each cup gets epoxied into each side of the bottom bracket shell. Then the retaining clips are squeezed into the little slot in the cups. Then the bearings are pressed in and the retaining clips help tell you when to stop pressing them in, they act as a wall.
I'd go with the enduros you posted, my 2018 Venge Vias frame came with the expensive BB30 bearings pressed in. They don't spin any better or worse than $30 Enduro bearings. I certainly won't be replacing them with laughably overpriced full ceramic ones when they eventually deteriorate.
Btw, BBInfinite ships just fine internationally, same price as those enduros -- I met the owners at the Sea Otter bike expo couple years back, they're nice guys, and the only people who offer an abec-7 steel bb30 bearing.
So if you would choose between the overpriced ceramic bb, the enduro abec-5, skf or bb infinite abec-7, you choose the bbinfinite abec-7 ones?
Must I remove the clip before I knock the bearings out?
Which loctite I should use to replace the new bearings?
Must I remove the clip before I knock the bearings out?
Which loctite I should use to replace the new bearings?
Yes.
Yes.
A very light coat of loctite 609 retaining compound on the outer race surface.
How can I remove them if the bearing still is in the frame?
Is loctite 648 good enough, a friend of mine has a bottle of 648?
I have mailed BBinfinite and the suggested these two
https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/bb3 ... mm-spindle
https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/cer ... k-setspair
That is not cheap but the both are ceramic.
I hope the ABEC-7 is as good
Regarding the retaining clips. Every OSBB I've ever worked on (and I currently own three bikes with OSBB, which is a terrible system for the record), the clips are behind the bearings to keep them in place while the crank compresses from the outside. So you have to knock out the bearings first, then use a screwdriver and pliers to remove the clips. (Cannondale uses a clip that has two holes on either side so you can use a removal tool).
Add loctite at your own risk. This is just delaying the inevitable problem. Spec's implentation of this is particularly prone to creaking because the diameter of their shell is too big. Add loctite to prevent creaking. Next time you go to replace those bearings, they will be a mother to get out.
If I were you I would buy the Praxis OSBB to GXP conversion kit and say goodbye to the OSBB.
Add loctite at your own risk. This is just delaying the inevitable problem. Spec's implentation of this is particularly prone to creaking because the diameter of their shell is too big. Add loctite to prevent creaking. Next time you go to replace those bearings, they will be a mother to get out.
If I were you I would buy the Praxis OSBB to GXP conversion kit and say goodbye to the OSBB.
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