Compatibility of EPS for my C60 frame?

[TonyM]

Hi,

I have a 2015 C60 frame currently built with Campy SR 2015 mechanical.
I think it is a frame which is also compatible for EPS as it has a hole on the botton of the down tube for the charging of the "old" Campy electronic groupset.

The chainstay however doesn't have any visible hole for the cable for the rear derailleur. Just this attachment for the regular cable for the mechanical rear derailleur.



So my questions:
- Is my frame EPS compatible?
- If yes where does the cable for the rear derailleur go? inside the chainstay and outside where? Or outside the chainstay? I hope I don't have to drill a hole in the chainstay...Or is there a hole for that purpose under the piece holding the cable for the mechanical rear derailleur?

[Calnago]

Rear derailleur wire goes internally through the chainstay and comes out the very end. There should be a rubber stop in the very end of the chainstay (with no hole in it) and you replace that one with the one that came with the other small parts (headset cap, compression plug, etc.). It looks like this...


You can remove the cable stop under the chainstay if you like as it is just screwed on.

[TonyM]

I now found the hole in the chainstay! thanks!

However I don't have this rubber stop with the hole in it so that I will have to use something else, maybe Sugru.



Looking at the position of the hole it means that the cable will then go just above the skewer. I feel that I will have to be careful not to squeeze it if I have to swap the wheel etc....

[Calnago]

No, see that little "slot" in the droput above the exit hole. The wire will fit into that, taking it above and around the top of the dropout. No worries about it getting jammed in between the dropout and skewer. Quite frankly, I think the EPS implementaion on the C60 is kind of an ugly mess up front. The power wire has to enter in through the mechanical derailleur hole in the downtube, as opposed to a much cleaner entry point on the top tube (which there is none). You should also have a plastic stop that inserts into the left side derailleur port that will hold the wire better. But if you don't have the "electric accessories" that would have come with your frame in the box of goodies, then you probably don't have this either. Sugru might come in handy for you.

[TonyM]

Ok!

A few question to EPS:
- where should the cable from the V3 interface go into the down tube? in the left, right? And then Sugru in the right hole?
- What is the best location of the V3 battery? in the seatpost or in the seat tube attached to the bolts if the bottle cage holder?

[Mockenrue]

This is how I have mine, routed down the rear brake cable with shrink wrap and into the down tube's left side:



As Calnago points out, this is not the most elegant solution. My other C60 is an electronic-only frame with a much neater implementation:



In the accessories kit there is a blanking plug for the right hole, although it's not the most snug fit. If you don't have this kit you should be able to get it from the importer/distributor. Otherwise yes Sugru is a good alternative (I used it on my M10S.)

What is the best location of the V3 battery? in the seatpost or in the seat tube attached to the bolts if the bottle cage holder?

In the seat post is much easier IMO. All you need is this:



Just be sure to orientate the PU so that you know roughly where the 'on/off' mark is facing once the seat post is in place. This takes the guesswork out of positioning the magnetic switch off strap.

[TonyM]

Ok!

Thanks for the pictures!

[Calnago]

Yup, those are your options... well, the top pic is really your only option, as you don't have an electric specific frame (nice Mocckenrue, so much cleaner... was that a special order?). You want to follow the rear brake cable as much as possible else have too much flailing flimsy power wire faffing about, hence entry into the left derailleur port. You can use heat shrink tube like Mockenrue did or some of that curly stuff that is easy to put on and holds the cables together. Just be sure you leave enough slack for the power wire to not get hung up during a complete movement of the bars from one side to the other.
And I too like the seatpost mounting option when possible. And once you determine exactly where the rather narrow band is that you need to wrap the magnet around to turn it off, there's a little stick on indicator that comes with the power unit that isn't too obtrusive on your frame that will basically provide you, or any mechanic that might work on it, the exact location to wrap the magnet on in order to turn it off.

[TonyM]

OK!

I was thinking about getting the wire on the right side of the down tube but it doesn't look clean indeed.

Will now go for the EPS V3 on my bike (as Campy will not have an EPS V4 soon).

[joeyb1000]

The v3 interface can only go in from the left. don't be surprised if you have to clean the paint out of the hole with a dremel tool or file.
The battery goes in the seat tube. you have to buy the 31.6 post rubber sleeve.
I encased the wire in the downtube with foam surgical tubing because the clanking drove me crazy.
I trimmed a Campy wire grommet and put it in the end of the chain stay.
Get a Garmin 520 so that you can see your gears.

[TonyM]

The idea with the foam is good. I intended to use some cable zip ties like the Di2 cable ties.

Do you know the diameter of the wires/ foam that it is needed?

[joeyb1000]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DMI-Tube-Foam- ... SwWnFV8bzJ

[TonyM]

Thanks!