Saving weight....lateral thinking
Moderator: robbosmans
I was thinking about other ways to save weight rather than the bike itself.
Example 1:
Regular multi-tool = 138.8g
Paired-down multi-tool = 70.2g
Saving = 68.6g
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Example 2:
Shimano cleat bolt = 3.1 x 6 = 18.6g
Titanium cleat bolt = 1.2 x 6 = 7.2g
Saving = 11g
Anyone got any more? Particularly ones that are free or cheap, as all weight reduced means faster climbing!
Example 1:
Regular multi-tool = 138.8g
Paired-down multi-tool = 70.2g
Saving = 68.6g
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Example 2:
Shimano cleat bolt = 3.1 x 6 = 18.6g
Titanium cleat bolt = 1.2 x 6 = 7.2g
Saving = 11g
Anyone got any more? Particularly ones that are free or cheap, as all weight reduced means faster climbing!
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- vejnemojnen
- Posts: 406
- Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2013 7:11 pm
the cleat screws are good idea: after all, you are constantly rotating your feet, therefore it's worth to invest in lighter shoes-cleat bolts or pedals.
generally, shoes without ratchet, but with laces or velcro straps can be a bit lighter. Shorts with less padding-thinner material. There you go
generally, shoes without ratchet, but with laces or velcro straps can be a bit lighter. Shorts with less padding-thinner material. There you go
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- in the industry
- Posts: 396
- Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 8:32 pm
- Location: Connecticut, USA
Lighter clothing.
Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager, Road Bikes
Cycling Sports Group, Cannondale
Ex-Kestrel, ex-Velomax, ex-Trek, ex-Cervelo
Engineering Manager, Road Bikes
Cycling Sports Group, Cannondale
Ex-Kestrel, ex-Velomax, ex-Trek, ex-Cervelo
I found light shoes that are comfy without the insoles.
369gr for the pair. Titanium bolts and washers for the cleats.
I'm on time knockoff pedals at 160gr/pair. Cleats are a bit heavy at around 60-65gr for the pair but they work adequately at least.
Here is a hysterical thing to save weight on that I sometimes do. Phone! I have a big phone @220gr and I never use it when I do the common training rides. I don't want to be stranded without a phone if I have a problem so I have one of those mini phones that only calls/texts/mp3. 50-60gr. If my carrier wouldn't use cdma I could get a 20gr gsm phone.
Helmet 180gr
Pump 45gr
Inner tube 50gr (like a conti supersonic or maxxis flyweight).
No tools apart from one plastic tire lever and 2 tire patches, abrasive piece of metal, vulcanizing agent. All my bolts are torqued before I leave the house so I never had to adjust anything. On rare occasion I ask a stranger if they have a hex key. My rd wire slipped once so I couldn't change gear. Also it's good for finding a good seat position while on the ride. When I have new gear that influences fit I just put 4+5 mm hex keys in my pocket.
Bottle + no bottle cage. I use lightweight bottles. 40gr 850ml and 60gr 1L, or drink bag under the jersey 120gr for 2L including tube. The drink bag is a pain to put in but a dream to have on long rides without stops. I don't have any bottle cages. Always a bottle in the jersey pocket. It also saves a few aero watts. Less clutter on the bike. If I do ride mostly long flat roads I take the aero bike and use a 1L heavy bottle with a straw between the aero bars. No need to bother with lightweight on flat roads.
/a
369gr for the pair. Titanium bolts and washers for the cleats.
I'm on time knockoff pedals at 160gr/pair. Cleats are a bit heavy at around 60-65gr for the pair but they work adequately at least.
Here is a hysterical thing to save weight on that I sometimes do. Phone! I have a big phone @220gr and I never use it when I do the common training rides. I don't want to be stranded without a phone if I have a problem so I have one of those mini phones that only calls/texts/mp3. 50-60gr. If my carrier wouldn't use cdma I could get a 20gr gsm phone.
Helmet 180gr
Pump 45gr
Inner tube 50gr (like a conti supersonic or maxxis flyweight).
No tools apart from one plastic tire lever and 2 tire patches, abrasive piece of metal, vulcanizing agent. All my bolts are torqued before I leave the house so I never had to adjust anything. On rare occasion I ask a stranger if they have a hex key. My rd wire slipped once so I couldn't change gear. Also it's good for finding a good seat position while on the ride. When I have new gear that influences fit I just put 4+5 mm hex keys in my pocket.
Bottle + no bottle cage. I use lightweight bottles. 40gr 850ml and 60gr 1L, or drink bag under the jersey 120gr for 2L including tube. The drink bag is a pain to put in but a dream to have on long rides without stops. I don't have any bottle cages. Always a bottle in the jersey pocket. It also saves a few aero watts. Less clutter on the bike. If I do ride mostly long flat roads I take the aero bike and use a 1L heavy bottle with a straw between the aero bars. No need to bother with lightweight on flat roads.
/a
Ritchey CPR-9 tool
Minimal number of house/garage keys, held together with gutted paracord.
No bottle on rides under 1.5h, just drink before & after (except on very hot days of course)
Minimal number of house/garage keys, held together with gutted paracord.
No bottle on rides under 1.5h, just drink before & after (except on very hot days of course)
But all the above is still focused on reducing the weight of the bike, or bike-related items.
If you really think laterally you can come up with lots of other ideas, such as....
- Wear shorter socks.
- Don't wear gloves.
- Don't wear sunglasses.
- Eat 1 less take-away meal each week.
- Get a haircut.
- Cut your fingernails/toenails.
- Make sure you've gone to the loo before a ride.
If you really think laterally you can come up with lots of other ideas, such as....
- Wear shorter socks.
- Don't wear gloves.
- Don't wear sunglasses.
- Eat 1 less take-away meal each week.
- Get a haircut.
- Cut your fingernails/toenails.
- Make sure you've gone to the loo before a ride.
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- Location: USA
alcatraz wrote: ↑Fri Apr 27, 2018 1:01 pmHere is a hysterical thing to save weight on that I sometimes do. Phone! I have a big phone @220gr and I never use it when I do the common training rides. I don't want to be stranded without a phone if I have a problem so I have one of those mini phones that only calls/texts/mp3. 50-60gr. If my carrier wouldn't use cdma I could get a 20gr gsm phone.
I do this. I have a super cheap AT&T pay-as-you-go "flip phone" for cycling. No texts, or anything -- just plain old phone. It's tiny and light. Honestly, its a better "phone" than my expensive Android anyway. It was about $15 on Amazon, and if it gets trashed, I don't really care.
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- Posts: 130
- Joined: Thu Oct 29, 2015 11:13 pm
- Location: Phoenix,AZ
Funny. I had the same thought. I decided to shave the extra 40 lbs off my belly before investing another cent into my bike
Titanium should be half the weight of steel. Those clear bolt weights don’t add up. Also are the Shimano bolts the hollow kind? That’s what I have currently.
I don’t even carry a phone. I do have two tubes and two CO2 cartridge, as well as quick patches and a very light carbon pump. So I’m as self sufficient as you can get.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don’t even carry a phone. I do have two tubes and two CO2 cartridge, as well as quick patches and a very light carbon pump. So I’m as self sufficient as you can get.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Can't see clearly but it looks like the bolt head integrated washer is of a smaller diameter and maybe a bit thinner.
I would issue a warning of using inadequate washer area directly on plastic cleats. Plastic deforms with time and you will end up pulling the bolt heads through the cleats and possibly have an accident. I saw pictures on the internet from a guy that did this. He broke his frame and everything. Knee all messed up.
Time cleats have this problem. You need to fit as large of a washer (bolt) as you can fit into the two lower bolt holes. Even original bolts are dangerous. I get knockoff cleats and the bolts were only 8-9mm at the widest point with 12mm of space available in the cleat channel. I popped a pair of titanium 11mm diameter bolts there and the thing has been very solid.
/a
I would issue a warning of using inadequate washer area directly on plastic cleats. Plastic deforms with time and you will end up pulling the bolt heads through the cleats and possibly have an accident. I saw pictures on the internet from a guy that did this. He broke his frame and everything. Knee all messed up.
Time cleats have this problem. You need to fit as large of a washer (bolt) as you can fit into the two lower bolt holes. Even original bolts are dangerous. I get knockoff cleats and the bolts were only 8-9mm at the widest point with 12mm of space available in the cleat channel. I popped a pair of titanium 11mm diameter bolts there and the thing has been very solid.
/a
never seen that before, been using time pedals for the last 5 years, both the xpresso and rxs, my father has used the rxs from when they came out to when they were replaced by the xpresso, the change the cleats about once a year, that's about 10000 km on the cleat, they are usually worn by that time.alcatraz wrote: ↑Sat Apr 28, 2018 3:32 amCan't see clearly but it looks like the bolt head integrated washer is of a smaller diameter and maybe a bit thinner.
I would issue a warning of using inadequate washer area directly on plastic cleats. Plastic deforms with time and you will end up pulling the bolt heads through the cleats and possibly have an accident. I saw pictures on the internet from a guy that did this. He broke his frame and everything. Knee all messed up.
Time cleats have this problem. You need to fit as large of a washer (bolt) as you can fit into the two lower bolt holes. Even original bolts are dangerous. I get knockoff cleats and the bolts were only 8-9mm at the widest point with 12mm of space available in the cleat channel. I popped a pair of titanium 11mm diameter bolts there and the thing has been very solid.
/a
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