Homemade Di2 sprint/climbing shifters

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
thefuzzycow
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by thefuzzycow

IrrelevantD wrote:
Mon Aug 20, 2018 3:29 pm
thefuzzycow wrote:
Mon Aug 20, 2018 7:14 am
I'm a little confused. What buttons did you splice into the etube wire? Any more details on your "hack"?
Same buttons as here spliced onto an etube wire cut in half and then plugged directly into the shifters. They work exactly like the SW-R610 sprint shifters, just a bit smaller. They don't have the additional functionality of the climbing shifters, but if I'm climbing on the tops, I'm already out of gears anyway.
What added functionality do you mean? I thought the switches needed to complete a circuit which is why you splice into the climbing shifters and solder to the board.

So you’re saying if you cut an E-TUBE wire in half, added a micro switch on the end, then just plugged it in, it’ll work to shift?
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1sanglier
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by 1sanglier

It's very simple to understand if you look the second picture.

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IrrelevantD
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by IrrelevantD

thefuzzycow wrote:
Mon Aug 20, 2018 5:42 pm

What added functionality do you mean? I thought the switches needed to complete a circuit which is why you splice into the climbing shifters and solder to the board.

So you’re saying if you cut an E-TUBE wire in half, added a micro switch on the end, then just plugged it in, it’ll work to shift?
So the sprint shifters are just that, momentary button that just complets a circuit. HOWEVER, the sprint shifters can only work if plugged into compatible brake levers (9070, 6870 and 9150), they only serve one function and are not programable. The left button moves the RD left (bigger), the right button moves it right (smaller). The climbing switches used here can operate completely independent of brake levers and have the same programability. They are essentially the same as the two buttons on the levers, so you could use them with non-Shimano brake-only levers. Ive seen people do this with flat bar conversions and non-shimano hydraulic levers.

EDIT: I just read up a few posts and saw your mention of having 8050. Completely disregard everything I've said about cutting e-tube cables and making the sprint shifters because they won't work with the 8050. It only works with SW-R610 compatible levers.
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thefuzzycow
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by thefuzzycow

IrrelevantD wrote:
Mon Aug 20, 2018 6:59 pm
thefuzzycow wrote:
Mon Aug 20, 2018 5:42 pm

What added functionality do you mean? I thought the switches needed to complete a circuit which is why you splice into the climbing shifters and solder to the board.

So you’re saying if you cut an E-TUBE wire in half, added a micro switch on the end, then just plugged it in, it’ll work to shift?
So the sprint shifters are just that, momentary button that just complets a circuit. HOWEVER, the sprint shifters can only work if plugged into compatible brake levers (9070, 6870 and 9150), they only serve one function and are not programable. The left button moves the RD left (bigger), the right button moves it right (smaller). The climbing switches used here can operate completely independent of brake levers and have the same programability. They are essentially the same as the two buttons on the levers, so you could use them with non-Shimano brake-only levers. Ive seen people do this with flat bar conversions and non-shimano hydraulic levers.

EDIT: I just read up a few posts and saw your mention of having 8050. Completely disregard everything I've said about cutting e-tube cables and making the sprint shifters because they won't work with the 8050. It only works with SW-R610 compatible levers.
That’s what I thought. That’s why I wanted the clarification. I’m running r8070 levers but the E-TUBE splice still won’t work as I need to complete the circuit with an r600 remote and such. Thank you!
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thefuzzycow
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by thefuzzycow

TheDoctor wrote:
Wed Jun 13, 2018 8:36 pm
Wanted to share my (very similar) homework as well... Followed the same basic approach to make small climbing shifters for a Dura Ace Di2 Disc 9170 setup, with the shifters only having ports for "smart" switches with the full circuitry, not for the "dumb" sprint shifters.

I purchased a (second hand) SW-R600 climbing shifter and took it apart; I was amazed to see how big the shifter is relative to the circuitry inside. In addition I got some small microswitches; these are available with different button lengths, I went with the shortest (~3mm) as these just protrude out of the bar tape - very low profile.

Soldering the wires onto the circuitry was precision work (left this to my dad the soldering expert :D ). The microswitches were soldered onto the other end. Filled up the little housing with sugru for waterproofing and for extra protection also covered it in heat shrink tubing. I also sealed the outside of the microswitches and soldered connection with sugru, giving the switches a smooth outside profile.

Image
All soldered up...

End result: very clean wiring, hardly visible climbing shifters, and a hidden WiFi unit as a bonus :thumbup:
Alright Doc! When you wired it up, did you run it directly into the shifter or into the bar end junction? Below is my wiring plan but I'm not sure if it'll work. I know as long as it's all wired up one way or another, it'll work, however with the old sprinter shifters, those needed to be connected directly into the levers. I'm hoping that is not the case with this remote climbing shifter.

I want to splice in some micro switches for custom sprinter shifters; exactly a you did.

My problem: How to wire them while using the bar end RS910

As of now, my set up is:
Climber remote wire - TO - d-fly unit - TO - RS910 bar end junction
350mm- Bar end to RS
550mm-RS to LS
1200mm-LS to B junction at bottom bracket
250mm-BT110 battery to B junction
300mm-FD to B junction
650mm-RD to B junction

For the switches:
Keep remote body internal, run buttons to desired location on drops, connect r600 etube wire to d-fly bluetooth port, then etube wire to 2nd port in bar end RS910.

All ports are full and successfully routed. Besides the above potential wiring, I don't see any other way to do it without adding another junction. Will that end up working?

Thanks!
"moo"
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1sanglier
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by 1sanglier

You can plug it where you want, because of the electronic part.

TheDoctor
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by TheDoctor

There are several wiring setups possible. My guess is yours would work; mine is (was easier with microswitches on the left and bar end junction on the right):
- wire of hacked climbing switches into left shifter
- wire from left shifter to d-fly and from d-fly to bar end junction (through handlebar)
- wire from bar end junction to right shifter
- wire from right shifter to B junction.
Don't have the wire precise lengths available but would depend on your handlebar and shifter positions, best to measure it on your bike (eg route a length of cord as you would run the wires, then measure length).
Good luck!
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thefuzzycow
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by thefuzzycow

TheDoctor wrote:
Thu Aug 23, 2018 3:13 pm
There are several wiring setups possible. My guess is yours would work; mine is (was easier with microswitches on the left and bar end junction on the right):
- wire of hacked climbing switches into left shifter
- wire from left shifter to d-fly and from d-fly to bar end junction (through handlebar)
- wire from bar end junction to right shifter
- wire from right shifter to B junction.
Don't have the wire precise lengths available but would depend on your handlebar and shifter positions, best to measure it on your bike (eg route a length of cord as you would run the wires, then measure length).
Good luck!
I'm running it with Ultegra Di2 8070 levers. I'm assuming that does not matter, but want to make sure before I start this project! Couple more questions, Doc!

So this set up will work with the new Ultegra 8070 hydro levers? (even though I'm routing to bar end.)
This will work when set up to ONLY shift the rear derailleur?
Will I need to use the E-Tube app to set up the functions for the buttons?

Any other advice or tips? I do like the sound of using Sugru stuff. Never have but seems like it could be VERY useful.
What would you day about putting a layer of the sugru stuff over every connection and letting dry so then they're protected?

Thank you once again! First time building a complete bike AND first time going Di2 and parting it all together. It's fun but nerve-wracking at the same time!!!
"moo"
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TheDoctor
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by TheDoctor

As far as I know the 8070's have exactly the same connections (2 Etube ports per shifter) as the DA levers I have but I haven't seen them myself. When you roll back the shifter rubber a bit it should be easy to see.
The buttons will by default indeed shift the rear derailleur. Because of the SW-R600 circuitry they can be programmed via the etube app, but when all is connected you can easily check which button does what by default (one is up one is down), before putting on the handlebar tape. So no actual need to use the app, but you can, just to change settings afterwards.
In my experience Sugru is best for sealing the connections, cannot go wrong with that.

One tip, make sure all the wires are plugged in fully and check that everything works before putting on the handlebar tape - one loose connection and it's a no go...
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thefuzzycow
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by thefuzzycow

TheDoctor wrote:
Fri Aug 24, 2018 11:11 am
The buttons will by default indeed shift the rear derailleur. Because of the SW-R600 circuitry they can be programmed via the etube app, but when all is connected you can easily check which button does what by default (one is up one is down), before putting on the handlebar tape.

In my experience Sugru is best for sealing the connections, cannot go wrong with that.

One tip, make sure all the wires are plugged in fully and check that everything works before putting on the handlebar tape - one loose connection and it's a no go...
Perfect! Thanks!
That’s what I figured since I’d complete the circuit, they should work just fine!

I will use Sugru as it sounds like the best option as to seal the contact points and mold to how you want them on the bar.

I guess there’s two last things I’m wondering:
1. What gauge wire did you use for splicing in those wires?
2. If I wore them into the WU111 then into the RS910 bar end, how will it default to shifting the rear derailleur rather than the front?

Thanks!
"moo"
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TheDoctor
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by TheDoctor

thefuzzycow wrote:
Tue Aug 28, 2018 9:43 am

I guess there’s two last things I’m wondering:
1. What gauge wire did you use for splicing in those wires?
2. If I wore them into the WU111 then into the RS910 bar end, how will it default to shifting the rear derailleur rather than the front?

Thanks!

1. Nothing special - the thinnest 2 core wire I had available. Needs to be a bit flexible though for easier routing.
2. Not sure if I understand this correctly - I plugged the hacked buttons into a free shifter port, instead of into the junction box. I am not sure if it works if you plug them straight into the junction, probably yes but I haven't tested that. The EW111 shouldn't be making a difference to their action or default settings (which is to shift the rear). To be clear, my wiring is: buttons into left shifter, left shifter into EW111 and on into junction, from there to right shifter.

Hope this helps
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thefuzzycow
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by thefuzzycow

TheDoctor wrote:
Tue Aug 28, 2018 10:44 am

1. Nothing special - the thinnest 2 core wire I had available. Needs to be a bit flexible though for easier routing.
2. Not sure if I understand this correctly - I plugged the hacked buttons into a free shifter port, instead of into the junction box. I am not sure if it works if you plug them straight into the junction, probably yes but I haven't tested that. The EW111 shouldn't be making a difference to their action or default settings (which is to shift the rear). To be clear, my wiring is: buttons into left shifter, left shifter into EW111 and on into junction, from there to right shifter.

Hope this helps
Cool. 2 core will be just fine.

My routing and with all the wires I got:
Bar end to right shifter
Shifter to shifter
left shifter to b junction in down tube
(The rest doesn’t matter)

So that leaves me with an open port on the RS910 bar end. That’s what I was wondering. You plugged into the shifter so it’s just like another shifter but with two buttons.

I’m looking to plug into the extra port in the bar end junction and wasn’t sure if it would work with my routing plan. I’m really curious if they would work when plugged into the bar end. (I suppose I will let you know when I do start the build)

I’m trying to see if there’s any other way to make my wires work without buying new ones. But if I’m adding these buttons, I suppose I don’t need a wire from shifter to shifter and can just go bar end to shifter like you did, then I’ll have buttons to shifter, and can the extra port on the shifter to run to the downtube. That’s makes sense now.
"moo"
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thefuzzycow
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by thefuzzycow

TheDoctor wrote:
Tue Aug 28, 2018 10:44 am

1. Nothing special - the thinnest 2 core wire I had available. Needs to be a bit flexible though for easier routing.
2. Not sure if I understand this correctly - I plugged the hacked buttons into a free shifter port, instead of into the junction box. I am not sure if it works if you plug them straight into the junction, probably yes but I haven't tested that. The EW111 shouldn't be making a difference to their action or default settings (which is to shift the rear). To be clear, my wiring is: buttons into left shifter, left shifter into EW111 and on into junction, from there to right shifter.

Hope this helps
Just to confirm, I reached out to shimano and they said because the R600 has it's own circuitry built in, it can be plugged in anywhere in the system and it will function. By default, it is designed to shift the rear derailleur only unless full/semi synchro shift is activated, then the front derailleur might move depending on how you have it set up. And it can be programmed in the e tube app to change how you'd like it to function is necessary.
"moo"
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TheDoctor
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by TheDoctor

thefuzzycow wrote:
Fri Aug 31, 2018 10:10 pm

Just to confirm, I reached out to shimano and they said because the R600 has it's own circuitry built in, it can be plugged in anywhere in the system and it will function. By default, it is designed to shift the rear derailleur only unless full/semi synchro shift is activated, then the front derailleur might move depending on how you have it set up. And it can be programmed in the e tube app to change how you'd like it to function is necessary.
Cool! Better than guessing... Post some pics when you're done!
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thefuzzycow
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by thefuzzycow

TheDoctor wrote:
Sat Sep 01, 2018 7:30 am

Cool! Better than guessing... Post some pics when you're done!
Question, Doc! Maybe it’s dumb.

So you used some 2 core wire. I got some wire and getting ready to start the project but made me think...

Why are two wires needed there? Since each button is single function, one wire to shift up, the other wire to shift down, why are two wires soldered to each contact? (Totaling 4 connections). It appears that both solder points are on each contact/button piece. (One in the middle and the other on the side of the metal contact)

Does this matter with completing the circuit somehow? I don’t understand this stuff.

Gotta go find some micro switches tmrw then I can get started on the project!
"moo"
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