Di2 wiring
Moderator: robbosmans
- Greatestalltime
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2017 12:47 pm
Ok. I’ve read several of the threads on here and I appreciate them. I have a few more questions to help me decide the cable lengths.
This is for wu111 and the rs-110. Specially where to place the wu111. Can I put it in the bar? Is the downtube a better place?
The cable lengths recommended were:
350mm bar end to lever(shorter if I put the rs-110 in there?)
600mm lever to lever
1400mm to the b junction (shorter if I put the wu111 in there?)
Any tips and advice would be appreciated.
This is going in a 53 De Rosa Protos which couldn’t wait any longer for Eps to be back in stock.
This is for wu111 and the rs-110. Specially where to place the wu111. Can I put it in the bar? Is the downtube a better place?
The cable lengths recommended were:
350mm bar end to lever(shorter if I put the rs-110 in there?)
600mm lever to lever
1400mm to the b junction (shorter if I put the wu111 in there?)
Any tips and advice would be appreciated.
This is going in a 53 De Rosa Protos which couldn’t wait any longer for Eps to be back in stock.
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I just did it on a S-works Sl6 build. The customer wanted the WU111 to be hidden and wanted to use the RS-910 junction box. The best way I found to prevent clacking sound is putting the wu111 in the downtube without using the Y wire.
What I did :
From junction Box RS-910 in the handle bar (2 wires) :
- 1 wire goes to the right shifter
- 1 wire goes to the downtube connect the WU111
From the Right lever (2 wires) :
- 1 wire come from the RS-910
- 1 wire goes to the left shifter (up to you if you want to put the cable inside the handle bar)
In the downtube :
- The wire that comes from the cockpit is plugged with the WU111 and then continues to the Junction Box (B)
COCKPIT <------(dt)-------> WU111 <---(dt)-----> JUNCTION BOX (B)
An other option could be in the seat-tube between the batterie and the Junction box but I didn't tried it.
What I did :
From junction Box RS-910 in the handle bar (2 wires) :
- 1 wire goes to the right shifter
- 1 wire goes to the downtube connect the WU111
From the Right lever (2 wires) :
- 1 wire come from the RS-910
- 1 wire goes to the left shifter (up to you if you want to put the cable inside the handle bar)
In the downtube :
- The wire that comes from the cockpit is plugged with the WU111 and then continues to the Junction Box (B)
COCKPIT <------(dt)-------> WU111 <---(dt)-----> JUNCTION BOX (B)
An other option could be in the seat-tube between the batterie and the Junction box but I didn't tried it.
- Greatestalltime
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2017 12:47 pm
Thanks. This is the setup on the YouTube video, correct?cassard wrote: ↑Thu Apr 19, 2018 3:44 pmI just did it on a S-works Sl6 build. The customer wanted the WU111 to be hidden and wanted to use the RS-910 junction box. The best way I found to prevent clacking sound is putting the wu111 in the downtube without using the Y wire.
What I did :
From junction Box RS-910 in the handle bar (2 wires) :
- 1 wire goes to the right shifter
- 1 wire goes to the downtube connect the WU111
From the Right lever (2 wires) :
- 1 wire come from the RS-910
- 1 wire goes to the left shifter (up to you if you want to put the cable inside the handle bar)
In the downtube :
- The wire that comes from the cockpit is plugged with the WU111 and then continues to the Junction Box (B)
COCKPIT <------(dt)-------> WU111 <---(dt)-----> JUNCTION BOX (B)
An other option could be in the seat-tube between the batterie and the Junction box but I didn't tried it.
https://youtu.be/cON3w1IL_7k
I put my WU111 in the handlebars between the bar end junction box and the shifter. It seems to be working well there. I've had no issues with the connection dropping out or anyting like that. (I had a Y cable from the junction box to the shifters which I HIGHLY don't recommend using for interanally routed bars. It was a real pain to get it through all the right holes.)
the video doesn't show mutch but yes. I'll take picture tomorrow to show youGreatestalltime wrote: ↑Thu Apr 19, 2018 4:03 pmThanks. This is the setup on the YouTube video, correct?cassard wrote: ↑Thu Apr 19, 2018 3:44 pmI just did it on a S-works Sl6 build. The customer wanted the WU111 to be hidden and wanted to use the RS-910 junction box. The best way I found to prevent clacking sound is putting the wu111 in the downtube without using the Y wire.
What I did :
From junction Box RS-910 in the handle bar (2 wires) :
- 1 wire goes to the right shifter
- 1 wire goes to the downtube connect the WU111
From the Right lever (2 wires) :
- 1 wire come from the RS-910
- 1 wire goes to the left shifter (up to you if you want to put the cable inside the handle bar)
In the downtube :
- The wire that comes from the cockpit is plugged with the WU111 and then continues to the Junction Box (B)
COCKPIT <------(dt)-------> WU111 <---(dt)-----> JUNCTION BOX (B)
An other option could be in the seat-tube between the batterie and the Junction box but I didn't tried it.
https://youtu.be/cON3w1IL_7k
This approach works if you are going to limit (eliminate, in case of 9170) your choices for connecting climber/sprinter switches.cassard wrote: ↑Thu Apr 19, 2018 3:44 pmI just did it on a S-works Sl6 build. The customer wanted the WU111 to be hidden and wanted to use the RS-910 junction box. The best way I found to prevent clacking sound is putting the wu111 in the downtube without using the Y wire.
What I did :
From junction Box RS-910 in the handle bar (2 wires) :
- 1 wire goes to the right shifter
- 1 wire goes to the downtube connect the WU111
From the Right lever (2 wires) :
- 1 wire come from the RS-910
- 1 wire goes to the left shifter (up to you if you want to put the cable inside the handle bar)
In the downtube :
- The wire that comes from the cockpit is plugged with the WU111 and then continues to the Junction Box (B)
COCKPIT <------(dt)-------> WU111 <---(dt)-----> JUNCTION BOX (B)
An other option could be in the seat-tube between the batterie and the Junction box but I didn't tried it.
I know it is subjective but I find those switches very useful (so useful that I am building the latest 9170 bike with two pairs of sprinter switches, one pair on the handlebar and one pair on the horns, and a modified version of the climber switch on the handlebar. The setup uses two jc41 junctions in the bar. )
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- Posts: 95
- Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2018 8:52 am
So this is kind of where I'm stuck. I'm building up my 3T Exploro with 2x hydraulic Di2 and want to use the R9150 remote climbing shifters or splice some micro switches for custom sprinter shifters.2old4this wrote: ↑Mon Apr 23, 2018 4:55 am
This approach works if you are going to limit (eliminate, in case of 9170) your choices for connecting climber/sprinter switches.
I know it is subjective but I find those switches very useful (so useful that I am building the latest 9170 bike with two pairs of sprinter switches, one pair on the handlebar and one pair on the horns, and a modified version of the climber switch on the handlebar. The setup uses two jc41 junctions in the bar. )
My problem: How to wire them while using the bar end RS910
As of now, my set up is:
150mm- Bar end to Bluetooth d-fly
350mm- Bar end to RS
550mm-RS to LS
1200mm-LS to B junction at bottom bracket
250mm-BT110 battery to B junction
300mm-FD to B junction
650mm-RD to B junction
All ports are full and successful routing. I suppose I would need another passive junction to connect everything; which seems annoying.
Only option I see is this. The Bluetooth Unit (EW-WU111) has two e-tube ports....
If I spliced 2 micro switches into a R600 climber remote shifter, I could run the climber etube wire to the bluetooth unit, then a etube wire continuing to the bar end junction. Can anybody confirm if the Bluetooth unit will work as an JC200 2 port connector? I don't see why not.
Besides the above potential wiring, I don't see any other way to do it without adding another junction.
Thanks!
"moo"
Cervelo Aspero
Specialized Epic
Quintana Roo pr5
Cervelo Aspero
Specialized Epic
Quintana Roo pr5
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- Posts: 624
- Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am
@fuzzycow: why not use the JC130 Y-junction which you can use to connect the two STIs and the RS910; these come in 3 different lengths. Connect the two long ends of the Y junction to the STIs and the short end to the RS910. Connect a cable from the second port on the RS910 to the WU111 (presumably in the downtube). Run a wire from the WU111 to the Junction B. Finally, the Junction B will be connected to the RD, FD and Battery (presumably in your seat post).
The JC130 is fairly pricey for what it is especially if you've already purchased all your cables. I think the purpose of the Y Junction was primarily to be used with the RS910 so you can keep two ports free on the STI. That’s what it looks like on the Shimano manuals anyway.
The JC130 is fairly pricey for what it is especially if you've already purchased all your cables. I think the purpose of the Y Junction was primarily to be used with the RS910 so you can keep two ports free on the STI. That’s what it looks like on the Shimano manuals anyway.
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- Posts: 95
- Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2018 8:52 am
I bought all my wires before I decided I wanted to add remote shifters for my drops. But even if I use the JC130, the 50mm end will not reach to the bar end where the junction will be. So I’d need another cable anyway.iamraymond wrote: ↑Wed Aug 22, 2018 8:45 am@fuzzycow: why not use the JC130 Y-junction which you can use to connect the two STIs and the RS910; these come in 3 different lengths. Connect the two long ends of the Y junction to the STIs and the short end to the RS910. Connect a cable from the second port on the RS910 to the WU111 (presumably in the downtube). Run a wire from the WU111 to the Junction B. Finally, the Junction B will be connected to the RD, FD and Battery (presumably in your seat post).
The JC130 is fairly pricey for what it is especially if you've already purchased all your cables. I think the purpose of the Y Junction was primarily to be used with the RS910 so you can keep two ports free on the STI. That’s what it looks like on the Shimano manuals anyway.
If I end up NOT using remote shifters, then my wiring is already set, wires ordered and good to go. No need to buy a y wire. If I were to use the a y wire, it seems as it might just complicate the schematic with trying to add in a spliced r600 remote for custom sprint shifter buttons.
But I do understand what you’re saying. That was my original plan. But after talking with many other Exploro owners, as well as 3T, I just decided to go with their wiring recommendations since they have the experience with what is best for the that bike etc.
I guess we’ll see how the goes!
"moo"
Cervelo Aspero
Specialized Epic
Quintana Roo pr5
Cervelo Aspero
Specialized Epic
Quintana Roo pr5
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- Posts: 624
- Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am
Ooops, my recommendation above would only work for a frame mounted RS910. For a handlebar end mounted RS910, then you can have one long end to the left STI, the other long end to the RS910, and the short end to the WU111. Then run a short 150mm cable from the RS910 to the right STI. Here's a diagram from the Shimano manual:
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- IrrelevantD
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- Location: Near DFW Airport
Maybe I'm missing something, but would just adding another b-juction up front not work? Unless my understanding of Di2's networking is wrong, you should be able to add multiple b-junctions and switches, so long as they aren't dumb switches like the R610 sprint shifters.thefuzzycow wrote: ↑Wed Aug 22, 2018 10:55 amI bought all my wires before I decided I wanted to add remote shifters for my drops. But even if I use the JC130, the 50mm end will not reach to the bar end where the junction will be. So I’d need another cable anyway.iamraymond wrote: ↑Wed Aug 22, 2018 8:45 am@fuzzycow: why not use the JC130 Y-junction which you can use to connect the two STIs and the RS910; these come in 3 different lengths. Connect the two long ends of the Y junction to the STIs and the short end to the RS910. Connect a cable from the second port on the RS910 to the WU111 (presumably in the downtube). Run a wire from the WU111 to the Junction B. Finally, the Junction B will be connected to the RD, FD and Battery (presumably in your seat post).
The JC130 is fairly pricey for what it is especially if you've already purchased all your cables. I think the purpose of the Y Junction was primarily to be used with the RS910 so you can keep two ports free on the STI. That’s what it looks like on the Shimano manuals anyway.
If I end up NOT using remote shifters, then my wiring is already set, wires ordered and good to go. No need to buy a y wire. If I were to use the a y wire, it seems as it might just complicate the schematic with trying to add in a spliced r600 remote for custom sprint shifter buttons.
But I do understand what you’re saying. That was my original plan. But after talking with many other Exploro owners, as well as 3T, I just decided to go with their wiring recommendations since they have the experience with what is best for the that bike etc.
I guess we’ll see how the goes!
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I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
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