Di2 wiring

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
Greatestalltime
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2017 12:47 pm

by Greatestalltime

Ok. I’ve read several of the threads on here and I appreciate them. I have a few more questions to help me decide the cable lengths.
This is for wu111 and the rs-110. Specially where to place the wu111. Can I put it in the bar? Is the downtube a better place?
The cable lengths recommended were:
350mm bar end to lever(shorter if I put the rs-110 in there?)
600mm lever to lever
1400mm to the b junction (shorter if I put the wu111 in there?)

Any tips and advice would be appreciated.

This is going in a 53 De Rosa Protos which couldn’t wait any longer for Eps to be back in stock.

by Weenie


cassard
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2018 12:31 am

by cassard

I just did it on a S-works Sl6 build. The customer wanted the WU111 to be hidden and wanted to use the RS-910 junction box. The best way I found to prevent clacking sound is putting the wu111 in the downtube without using the Y wire.

What I did :

From junction Box RS-910 in the handle bar (2 wires) :
- 1 wire goes to the right shifter
- 1 wire goes to the downtube connect the WU111

From the Right lever (2 wires) :
- 1 wire come from the RS-910
- 1 wire goes to the left shifter (up to you if you want to put the cable inside the handle bar)

In the downtube :
- The wire that comes from the cockpit is plugged with the WU111 and then continues to the Junction Box (B)

COCKPIT <------(dt)-------> WU111 <---(dt)-----> JUNCTION BOX (B)

An other option could be in the seat-tube between the batterie and the Junction box but I didn't tried it.

Greatestalltime
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2017 12:47 pm

by Greatestalltime

cassard wrote:
Thu Apr 19, 2018 3:44 pm
I just did it on a S-works Sl6 build. The customer wanted the WU111 to be hidden and wanted to use the RS-910 junction box. The best way I found to prevent clacking sound is putting the wu111 in the downtube without using the Y wire.

What I did :

From junction Box RS-910 in the handle bar (2 wires) :
- 1 wire goes to the right shifter
- 1 wire goes to the downtube connect the WU111

From the Right lever (2 wires) :
- 1 wire come from the RS-910
- 1 wire goes to the left shifter (up to you if you want to put the cable inside the handle bar)

In the downtube :
- The wire that comes from the cockpit is plugged with the WU111 and then continues to the Junction Box (B)

COCKPIT <------(dt)-------> WU111 <---(dt)-----> JUNCTION BOX (B)

An other option could be in the seat-tube between the batterie and the Junction box but I didn't tried it.
Thanks. This is the setup on the YouTube video, correct?
https://youtu.be/cON3w1IL_7k

CallumRD1
Posts: 129
Joined: Mon Apr 03, 2017 2:54 pm

by CallumRD1

I put my WU111 in the handlebars between the bar end junction box and the shifter. It seems to be working well there. I've had no issues with the connection dropping out or anyting like that. (I had a Y cable from the junction box to the shifters which I HIGHLY don't recommend using for interanally routed bars. It was a real pain to get it through all the right holes.)

djel
Posts: 43
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2016 12:29 am
Location: Montreal, CA

by djel

I tied the WU111 with the Junction box B with some bubble wrap and zip ties...it's not moving.

cassard
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2018 12:31 am

by cassard

Greatestalltime wrote:
Thu Apr 19, 2018 4:03 pm
cassard wrote:
Thu Apr 19, 2018 3:44 pm
I just did it on a S-works Sl6 build. The customer wanted the WU111 to be hidden and wanted to use the RS-910 junction box. The best way I found to prevent clacking sound is putting the wu111 in the downtube without using the Y wire.

What I did :

From junction Box RS-910 in the handle bar (2 wires) :
- 1 wire goes to the right shifter
- 1 wire goes to the downtube connect the WU111

From the Right lever (2 wires) :
- 1 wire come from the RS-910
- 1 wire goes to the left shifter (up to you if you want to put the cable inside the handle bar)

In the downtube :
- The wire that comes from the cockpit is plugged with the WU111 and then continues to the Junction Box (B)

COCKPIT <------(dt)-------> WU111 <---(dt)-----> JUNCTION BOX (B)

An other option could be in the seat-tube between the batterie and the Junction box but I didn't tried it.
Thanks. This is the setup on the YouTube video, correct?
https://youtu.be/cON3w1IL_7k
the video doesn't show mutch but yes. I'll take picture tomorrow to show you

2old4this
Posts: 359
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2014 7:26 am

by 2old4this

cassard wrote:
Thu Apr 19, 2018 3:44 pm
I just did it on a S-works Sl6 build. The customer wanted the WU111 to be hidden and wanted to use the RS-910 junction box. The best way I found to prevent clacking sound is putting the wu111 in the downtube without using the Y wire.

What I did :

From junction Box RS-910 in the handle bar (2 wires) :
- 1 wire goes to the right shifter
- 1 wire goes to the downtube connect the WU111

From the Right lever (2 wires) :
- 1 wire come from the RS-910
- 1 wire goes to the left shifter (up to you if you want to put the cable inside the handle bar)

In the downtube :
- The wire that comes from the cockpit is plugged with the WU111 and then continues to the Junction Box (B)

COCKPIT <------(dt)-------> WU111 <---(dt)-----> JUNCTION BOX (B)

An other option could be in the seat-tube between the batterie and the Junction box but I didn't tried it.
This approach works if you are going to limit (eliminate, in case of 9170) your choices for connecting climber/sprinter switches.

I know it is subjective but I find those switches very useful (so useful that I am building the latest 9170 bike with two pairs of sprinter switches, one pair on the handlebar and one pair on the horns, and a modified version of the climber switch on the handlebar. The setup uses two jc41 junctions in the bar. :smartass: )

dricked
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2018 1:57 pm

by dricked

My DA 9000 levers have 3 ports and one will only work with the sprint shifter. The new 9100 is different?

CallumRD1
Posts: 129
Joined: Mon Apr 03, 2017 2:54 pm

by CallumRD1

The Ultegra 8070 and Dura Ace 9070 hydraulic STIs only have 2 normal Di2 ports. The rim brake STIs still have the extra port dedicated for sprint shifters.

dricked
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2018 1:57 pm

by dricked

Well now that’s annoying.

thefuzzycow
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2018 8:52 am

by thefuzzycow

2old4this wrote:
Mon Apr 23, 2018 4:55 am

This approach works if you are going to limit (eliminate, in case of 9170) your choices for connecting climber/sprinter switches.

I know it is subjective but I find those switches very useful (so useful that I am building the latest 9170 bike with two pairs of sprinter switches, one pair on the handlebar and one pair on the horns, and a modified version of the climber switch on the handlebar. The setup uses two jc41 junctions in the bar. :smartass: )
So this is kind of where I'm stuck. I'm building up my 3T Exploro with 2x hydraulic Di2 and want to use the R9150 remote climbing shifters or splice some micro switches for custom sprinter shifters.

My problem: How to wire them while using the bar end RS910

As of now, my set up is:
150mm- Bar end to Bluetooth d-fly
350mm- Bar end to RS
550mm-RS to LS
1200mm-LS to B junction at bottom bracket
250mm-BT110 battery to B junction
300mm-FD to B junction
650mm-RD to B junction

All ports are full and successful routing. I suppose I would need another passive junction to connect everything; which seems annoying.

Only option I see is this. The Bluetooth Unit (EW-WU111) has two e-tube ports....
If I spliced 2 micro switches into a R600 climber remote shifter, I could run the climber etube wire to the bluetooth unit, then a etube wire continuing to the bar end junction. Can anybody confirm if the Bluetooth unit will work as an JC200 2 port connector? I don't see why not.

Besides the above potential wiring, I don't see any other way to do it without adding another junction.

Thanks!
"moo"
3T Exploro
Specialized CruX
Pivot Trail 429

iamraymond
Posts: 83
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

@fuzzycow: why not use the JC130 Y-junction which you can use to connect the two STIs and the RS910; these come in 3 different lengths. Connect the two long ends of the Y junction to the STIs and the short end to the RS910. Connect a cable from the second port on the RS910 to the WU111 (presumably in the downtube). Run a wire from the WU111 to the Junction B. Finally, the Junction B will be connected to the RD, FD and Battery (presumably in your seat post).

The JC130 is fairly pricey for what it is especially if you've already purchased all your cables. I think the purpose of the Y Junction was primarily to be used with the RS910 so you can keep two ports free on the STI. That’s what it looks like on the Shimano manuals anyway.

thefuzzycow
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2018 8:52 am

by thefuzzycow

iamraymond wrote:
Wed Aug 22, 2018 8:45 am
@fuzzycow: why not use the JC130 Y-junction which you can use to connect the two STIs and the RS910; these come in 3 different lengths. Connect the two long ends of the Y junction to the STIs and the short end to the RS910. Connect a cable from the second port on the RS910 to the WU111 (presumably in the downtube). Run a wire from the WU111 to the Junction B. Finally, the Junction B will be connected to the RD, FD and Battery (presumably in your seat post).

The JC130 is fairly pricey for what it is especially if you've already purchased all your cables. I think the purpose of the Y Junction was primarily to be used with the RS910 so you can keep two ports free on the STI. That’s what it looks like on the Shimano manuals anyway.
I bought all my wires before I decided I wanted to add remote shifters for my drops. But even if I use the JC130, the 50mm end will not reach to the bar end where the junction will be. So I’d need another cable anyway.

If I end up NOT using remote shifters, then my wiring is already set, wires ordered and good to go. No need to buy a y wire. If I were to use the a y wire, it seems as it might just complicate the schematic with trying to add in a spliced r600 remote for custom sprint shifter buttons.

But I do understand what you’re saying. That was my original plan. But after talking with many other Exploro owners, as well as 3T, I just decided to go with their wiring recommendations since they have the experience with what is best for the that bike etc.

I guess we’ll see how the goes!
"moo"
3T Exploro
Specialized CruX
Pivot Trail 429

iamraymond
Posts: 83
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:59 am

by iamraymond

Ooops, my recommendation above would only work for a frame mounted RS910. For a handlebar end mounted RS910, then you can have one long end to the left STI, the other long end to the RS910, and the short end to the WU111. Then run a short 150mm cable from the RS910 to the right STI. Here's a diagram from the Shimano manual:
Attachments
SNAG-1260.jpg

User avatar
IrrelevantD
Posts: 354
Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2015 5:47 pm
Location: Near DFW Airport

by IrrelevantD

thefuzzycow wrote:
Wed Aug 22, 2018 10:55 am
iamraymond wrote:
Wed Aug 22, 2018 8:45 am
@fuzzycow: why not use the JC130 Y-junction which you can use to connect the two STIs and the RS910; these come in 3 different lengths. Connect the two long ends of the Y junction to the STIs and the short end to the RS910. Connect a cable from the second port on the RS910 to the WU111 (presumably in the downtube). Run a wire from the WU111 to the Junction B. Finally, the Junction B will be connected to the RD, FD and Battery (presumably in your seat post).

The JC130 is fairly pricey for what it is especially if you've already purchased all your cables. I think the purpose of the Y Junction was primarily to be used with the RS910 so you can keep two ports free on the STI. That’s what it looks like on the Shimano manuals anyway.
I bought all my wires before I decided I wanted to add remote shifters for my drops. But even if I use the JC130, the 50mm end will not reach to the bar end where the junction will be. So I’d need another cable anyway.

If I end up NOT using remote shifters, then my wiring is already set, wires ordered and good to go. No need to buy a y wire. If I were to use the a y wire, it seems as it might just complicate the schematic with trying to add in a spliced r600 remote for custom sprint shifter buttons.

But I do understand what you’re saying. That was my original plan. But after talking with many other Exploro owners, as well as 3T, I just decided to go with their wiring recommendations since they have the experience with what is best for the that bike etc.

I guess we’ll see how the goes!
Maybe I'm missing something, but would just adding another b-juction up front not work? Unless my understanding of Di2's networking is wrong, you should be able to add multiple b-junctions and switches, so long as they aren't dumb switches like the R610 sprint shifters.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.

by Weenie


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