EW-RS910 Junction + S-works Shallow Bend cable routing

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
Tarmacian
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2016 9:00 pm

by Tarmacian

Hello all,

I am planning to upgrade my S-working Tarmac SL5 to DA9150. I have the groupset at home and am now looking for the cleanest way to install the cables in the handlebar. I have an S-works Shallow bend (version without hole for the e-tube for EW-RS910 Junction).

The new Tarmac has the same handlebar (with hole) and uses the EW-JC130 Y-Split Junction-B Wire. I understand that it is practical but can be much cleaner i guess. I’m using the older junctionbox under the stem and have the cables neatly packed with heat shrink tubing. I want the new situation to be as clean as possible.

There are plenty examples out there for handlebars with internal cables routing but is there anyone who has a good example of EW-RS910 Junction without the split wire and use of internal routing?

Regards,
Tarmacian

Delorre
Posts: 966
Joined: Sat May 24, 2014 12:09 pm

by Delorre

If you make the effort to go with the bar end junction box, please don't use those Y-splitters. They came with my 9170 Scott bike, and it's still a mess. My advise:

*Drill a 5,5mm hole on both sides of the handlebar, 4, or 5 cm from the bar end.
*From the bar end junction box, go to the shifter via a hole on one side.
*From that shifter, route a long (750mm or more) cable back to the same hole, through the handlebar, through the other hole on the other side and so to shifter on that side.
*From that shifter, route an other long cable, along with the brake cable f.ex , to the junction in the BB.

Super clean, and drilling holes near the bar end won't have any effect on safety, there is no stress in that area. But use a new, high quality drill and make sure you smooth out the hole before wiring, to avoid any damage to the di2 wires.

by Weenie


cassard
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2018 12:31 am

by cassard

In the same idea, I'm looking for a way to hide the WU111 unit for a customer. He uses an s-works stem and s-work shallow bend handle bar. So I know that the stem cannot hide the junction (like the most or pro).

I haven't looked at the frame bb spacing but I thought of hiding it in this area and finding a way of not making it bumping anywhere.

Any other ideas ?

Tarmacian
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2016 9:00 pm

by Tarmacian

@Delorre Sounds great. Were would you put the D-fly unit? I prefer somewhere hidden in the frame.

Delorre
Posts: 966
Joined: Sat May 24, 2014 12:09 pm

by Delorre

Tarmacian wrote:
Tue Apr 17, 2018 1:01 pm
@Delorre Sounds great. Were would you put the D-fly unit? I prefer somewhere hidden in the frame.
Inside the frame, near the cable entry to minimise the distance between the D-fly and the head unit. Although you wil find succes storys with a D-fly in the BB area or seatpost, why take the risks of a too weak signal.

marek
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2017 11:53 am

by marek

cassard wrote:
Mon Apr 16, 2018 9:34 pm
In the same idea, I'm looking for a way to hide the WU111 unit for a customer. He uses an s-works stem and s-work shallow bend handle bar. So I know that the stem cannot hide the junction (like the most or pro).

I haven't looked at the frame bb spacing but I thought of hiding it in this area and finding a way of not making it bumping anywhere.

Any other ideas ?
I've placed small bluetooth transmitter (EW-WU111) in seat tube, under seatpost. The setup is following:

Battery (BT-DN110-1) - 100 mm DI2 cable (EW-SD50) - transmitter (EW-WU111) - 550 mm DI2 cable (EW-SD50) - junction box in the bottom bracket (SM-JC41) - rest of the system.

No issues with connectivity to Garmin Edge 1030.

muffinman
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2016 5:29 am

by muffinman

Sort of relevant because I had to do this to my bike, but with different bars. 3T Rotundo LTD don't have holes for internally routed e-tube cables so I just ran the cables on the outside of the bar and fed them through the bar with very very minimal modifications. End result is pretty clean and you can't see nor feel the cable unless you're actively looking for it.

Cable routing:
Junction b in bb ==> 1400mm etube cable to right shifter ==> 1200mm etube cable to EW-RS910 ==> etube cable to left shifter.

I know the 1200mm cable from right shifter to ew-rs910 is extremely excessive, but my previous setup used compact 38cm pro vibe bars with the cable routing holes, so I just used my old b to a junction cable and bought a new cable because the gaulzetti neeeded a longer cable for that junction anyways.

Build pics:

Used a grinding wheel to take one of the corners off the junction box. I might have done this upside down, but it doesn't really matter.
Image

With the junction box inside the bar end along with the cable linking the left to right shifter
Image

Taped up with slack in the cable for the shifter to be adjusted
Image

Cut a slit in the bracket thing that holds the junction box in. I only used the top half with the ring and not the other half.
Image

Installed and taped down
Image

Filed a small slit in the DS bar end plug for the cable to enter the bar
Image

Installed and taped up.
Image

Unfortunately I didn't take any pics of the junction box with bar tape, but it looks like a normal one with a slit cut in it and a cable filling that slot. If anyone wants it, I can grab a pic tonight.

Finished product from the side and front after heat shrink and all that good stuff.
Image

Image

cassard
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2018 12:31 am

by cassard

marek wrote:
Tue Apr 17, 2018 5:19 pm
cassard wrote:
Mon Apr 16, 2018 9:34 pm
In the same idea, I'm looking for a way to hide the WU111 unit for a customer. He uses an s-works stem and s-work shallow bend handle bar. So I know that the stem cannot hide the junction (like the most or pro).

I haven't looked at the frame bb spacing but I thought of hiding it in this area and finding a way of not making it bumping anywhere.

Any other ideas ?
I've placed small bluetooth transmitter (EW-WU111) in seat tube, under seatpost. The setup is following:

Battery (BT-DN110-1) - 100 mm DI2 cable (EW-SD50) - transmitter (EW-WU111) - 550 mm DI2 cable (EW-SD50) - junction box in the bottom bracket (SM-JC41) - rest of the system.

No issues with connectivity to Garmin Edge 1030.
this is actually a very good idea !! In the meantime I found a way by putting it in the downtube, but I'll keep your idea !

DeeHubbs
Posts: 77
Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2015 11:05 pm

by DeeHubbs

One point to add, if you're running your cables externally on your bars make sure its not run on the bottom, or outer side of the bars. If you have a small crash and your bars drag on the ground you will cut though the cable.
I have mine on the inner side of the bars (not inside) to protect them from and road rash damage, and I'll still be able to pedal/shift home.

Greatestalltime
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2017 12:47 pm

by Greatestalltime

One option I’ve seen is rs-110-wire past the shifter out of the hole for internal cable routing then back to the shifter. Then a 600mm to the other shifter.

Can the wu111 be placed inside the bar right after the rs-110? Seems to work similarly on the pinnerello f10 with the cut out on the down tube.

Any suggestions would be helpful in helping me decide what wire lengths to buy.

I do like the idea above about having the wu111 rigbt after the battery.

Greatestalltime
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2017 12:47 pm

by Greatestalltime

Does anyone know what cable lengths the 9070 groupset comes with?

cassard
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2018 12:31 am

by cassard

the groupset doesn't come with wires you have to buy them after

marek
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2017 11:53 am

by marek

See the full set of Di2 components with cable lenghts which will work with my Bianchi OltreXR4, size 57 and handlebar 3T Aeronova, 40 cm:

DI2 hub: EW-RS910 (bar end type - in the LEFT end of handlebar)
DI2 junction box (by bottom bracket) SM-JC41
DI2 bluetooth transmitter (small) EW-WU111
DI2 battery BT-DN110-1
DI2 battery holder i.e. FSA, Ritchey
DI2 cable: bar end hub - left lever EW-SD50 - 400 mm
DI2 cable: bar end hub - right lever EW-SD50 - 850mm
DI2 cable: right lever - junction box EW-SD50 - 1200 mm
DI2 cable: battery - bt transmitter EW-SD50 - 150 mm
DI2 cable: bt transmitter - junction box EW-SD50 - 550 mm
DI2 cable: junction box - front derailleur EW-SD50 - 300 mm
DI2 cable: junction box - rear derailleur EW-SD50 - 550 mm
DI2 cable holders EW-SD50-I (2 sets)
DI2 rubber grommets (penetrations in the frame) SM-GM01 (6 mm) or SM-GM02 (7x8mm)

I hope it will help.

Greatestalltime
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2017 12:47 pm

by Greatestalltime

cassard wrote:
Thu Apr 19, 2018 3:48 pm
the groupset doesn't come with wires you have to buy them after
The 9070 I just bought from Merlin came with all the wires I need for the seatpost setup with the WU-111 and the RS-110 in the barend except the 1400mm.

Came with:
2-350mm
1-1000mm
1-700mm
1-300mm
1-600mm

Greatestalltime
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2017 12:47 pm

by Greatestalltime

muffinman wrote:
Tue Apr 17, 2018 6:36 pm
Sort of relevant because I had to do this to my bike, but with different bars. 3T Rotundo LTD don't have holes for internally routed e-tube cables so I just ran the cables on the outside of the bar and fed them through the bar with very very minimal modifications. End result is pretty clean and you can't see nor feel the cable unless you're actively looking for it.

Cable routing:
Junction b in bb ==> 1400mm etube cable to right shifter ==> 1200mm etube cable to EW-RS910 ==> etube cable to left shifter.

I know the 1200mm cable from right shifter to ew-rs910 is extremely excessive, but my previous setup used compact 38cm pro vibe bars with the cable routing holes, so I just used my old b to a junction cable and bought a new cable because the gaulzetti neeeded a longer cable for that junction anyways.

Build pics:

Used a grinding wheel to take one of the corners off the junction box. I might have done this upside down, but it doesn't really matter.
Image

With the junction box inside the bar end along with the cable linking the left to right shifter
Image

Taped up with slack in the cable for the shifter to be adjusted
Image

Cut a slit in the bracket thing that holds the junction box in. I only used the top half with the ring and not the other half.
Image

Installed and taped down
Image

Filed a small slit in the DS bar end plug for the cable to enter the bar
Image

Installed and taped up.
Image

Unfortunately I didn't take any pics of the junction box with bar tape, but it looks like a normal one with a slit cut in it and a cable filling that slot. If anyone wants it, I can grab a pic tonight.

Finished product from the side and front after heat shrink and all that good stuff.
Image

Image
I must be missing something. Why do you have a channel cut in the DS bar end plug? Why would the wire go through that?

by Weenie


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