Rotor Aldhu

[Martijnbls]

Bolts and also the spider is only necessary if you would use separate chainrings.

[Ytse]

Bolts and also the spider is only necessary if you would use separate chainrings.

Thanks!

[LanceLegstrong]

Are the DM chainrings 12-speed compatible? There's a Labor Day sale that I'm looking at but it's a full set (Carbon Aldhu, spindle, DM rings). I love oval rings so I'm fine with that, but not sure if they'll work with my 12-sp Di2 groupset.

[lukaszzsch]

They work, I use oval dm chainring 50-34 with 8100.
But rotor website also confirms compatibility

[LanceLegstrong]

They work, I use oval dm chainring 50-34 with 8100.
But rotor website also confirms compatibility

Awesome. Found a full set with arms, spindle, 52/36 DM rings for $530. Cheaper than just the arms cost normally. Jenson USA for anybody looking. Only 52/36 rings though.

[LanceLegstrong]

Anybody have experience with swapping chainrings fairly regularly? Wondering how quick you could swap out the spider or swap chainrings. Considering different road and gravel setups without having to have two full cranksets, that is, having a road chainring and a gravel chainring and just removing the cranks and swapping them out.

[jch3n]

Anybody have experience with swapping chainrings fairly regularly? Wondering how quick you could swap out the spider or swap chainrings. Considering different road and gravel setups without having to have two full cranksets, that is, having a road chainring and a gravel chainring and just removing the cranks and swapping them out.

I don't do it regularly, but swapping out a spider or direct mount chainring can be done in less than 5 minutes. It's super simple with Rotor's system. You probably don't even have to take the whole crank off the bike, just unbolt the DS crankarm that sandwiches the spider/DM chainring with the axle. Obviously if you're swapping chainrings on a spider it might take a little longer since you're fiddling with more individual bolts.

[tmanley]

Anybody have experience with swapping chainrings fairly regularly? Wondering how quick you could swap out the spider or swap chainrings. Considering different road and gravel setups without having to have two full cranksets, that is, having a road chainring and a gravel chainring and just removing the cranks and swapping them out.

I swap out usually 2-3x/year, mostly around the Fall when I decide I want to use the 50/34 and grind less up climbs and then move back to the 52/36 in the Spring when racing season rolls around. I too run Rotor on my gravel bike and like the fact that I could take either of these two chainring options and use it on that bike too!

[LanceLegstrong]

Anybody have experience with swapping chainrings fairly regularly? Wondering how quick you could swap out the spider or swap chainrings. Considering different road and gravel setups without having to have two full cranksets, that is, having a road chainring and a gravel chainring and just removing the cranks and swapping them out.

I swap out usually 2-3x/year, mostly around the Fall when I decide I want to use the 50/34 and grind less up climbs and then move back to the 52/36 in the Spring when racing season rolls around. I too run Rotor on my gravel bike and like the fact that I could take either of these two chainring options and use it on that bike too!

Just watched the installation video. I didn't realize how easy and quick it is to swap chainrings. No messing with preload and the left side. Looks like it would take less than a minute. This could be a very viable option.

[pushpush]

Is anyone running this crankset on TarSL7? What spacers do you have installed? Using which chain?

Everything has been working flawlessly, but my Shimano crankset had to go to Shimano for some unknown amount of time for replacement, so I took the opportunity to save some weight. Now I'm starting to think that was a mistake.

While shifting overall is good, I'm having trouble with the rotor chainring I have never had with Shimano rings. 11t and 13t sprockets to 52t ring, and the chain periodically drops off on the outside. It happens just infrequently enough that I think it is resolved but just often enough that I don't trust it.

I've never experienced this with a Shimano crankset and am confused by why it is happening. On the stand, I can watch everything rotate perfectly for a while, and then with no changes, the chain just randomly rides off the outside of the ring.

Rotor recommends using 0.5mm spacer on both sides. If I do that, it increases the angle of the chain line, and the chain will come off the big ring almost immediately. Shimming it out to 2mm on the drive-side puts the cranks off-center (a different bad problem) but reduces the chain line angle and the chain doesn't fall off constantly. It still happens, but much less frequently. No amount of reconfiguring the FD seems to make any difference. The chain isn't dropping during shifts but during normal rotation. There isn't any interaction with the FD. I can trim the FD close enough to prevent the chain from coming off the ring, but then I have these intermittent events where the chain rubs the FD cage. Better than the chain dropping, but also not great.


SL7
BbInfinite bb
rotor aldhu 30mm
rotor 2x11 52/36
shimano 9100 di2 fd/rd
shimano hg800 cassette
shimano 12s chain


Current options that I can think of:
1) Go back to a 11s chain and hope that it works better. I'm not sure why this would be. Going to a 12s chain has been trouble-free for the past 2yrs.
2) Abandon the Rotor and go back to Shimano when they ship me a new one.


The Rotor crankset seems to be well liked. What is the secret to make it work reliably?



EDIT: In case someone comes along in the future with the same setup.... I installed the BBinfinite BB, installed the rotor crankset with 0.5mm spacer on each side, I zeroed out the di2 FD trim, set the fd height and angle, and then adjusted the FD for the outer limits. Shimano advises that you set the FD for a gap on the inside edge of each ring. I set this for an inside gap on the small ring, and an outside gap on the big ring. So far, it has not dropped the chain and shifting is good. Chain doesn't go onto or come off the rotor ring as smoothly as the shimano ring, but it is good enough for the time being. I'll follow up if I experience more troubles.

[sigma]

Is anyone running this crankset on TarSL7? What spacers do you have installed? Using which chain?

Everything has been working flawlessly, but my Shimano crankset had to go to Shimano for some unknown amount of time for replacement, so I took the opportunity to save some weight. Now I'm starting to think that was a mistake.

While shifting overall is good, I'm having trouble with the rotor chainring I have never had with Shimano rings. 11t and 13t sprockets to 52t ring, and the chain periodically drops off on the outside. It happens just infrequently enough that I think it is resolved but just often enough that I don't trust it.

I've never experienced this with a Shimano crankset and am confused by why it is happening. On the stand, I can watch everything rotate perfectly for a while, and then with no changes, the chain just randomly rides off the outside of the ring.

Rotor recommends using 0.5mm spacer on both sides. If I do that, it increases the angle of the chain line, and the chain will come off the big ring almost immediately. Shimming it out to 2mm on the drive-side puts the cranks off-center (a different bad problem) but reduces the chain line angle and the chain doesn't fall off constantly. It still happens, but much less frequently. No amount of reconfiguring the FD seems to make any difference. The chain isn't dropping during shifts but during normal rotation. There isn't any interaction with the FD. I can trim the FD close enough to prevent the chain from coming off the ring, but then I have these intermittent events where the chain rubs the FD cage. Better than the chain dropping, but also not great.


SL7
BbInfinite bb
rotor aldhu 30mm
rotor 2x11 52/36
shimano 9100 di2 fd/rd
shimano hg800 cassette
shimano 12s chain


Current options that I can think of:
1) Go back to a 11s chain and hope that it works better. I'm not sure why this would be. Going to a 12s chain has been trouble-free for the past 2yrs.
2) Abandon the Rotor and go back to Shimano when they ship me a new one.


The Rotor crankset seems to be well liked. What is the secret to make it work reliably?

FWIW, I run all my rotor cranks save the gravel ones with Shimano chainrings to maintain the best shifting experience. Years ago (Rotor 3d crank error) I had a continuous bad chain suck with rotor rings but swtiched to praxis and never had another problenm.

[pushpush]

The more I dig into this, the more I suspect that the rotor ring doesn't mate with the 12s chain well enough to effectively retain it at certain chain line angles. Rotor claims that these rings are compatible with shimano 2x12, so I would expect the 12s chain to be a non-issue, but it sure seems to be one.

The rotor weight savings are attractive but I'm not sure it is worth the trouble.

[LanceLegstrong]

The more I dig into this, the more I suspect that the rotor ring doesn't mate with the 12s chain well enough to effectively retain it at certain chain line angles. Rotor claims that these rings are compatible with shimano 2x12, so I would expect the 12s chain to be a non-issue, but it sure seems to be one.

The rotor weight savings are attractive but I'm not sure it is worth the trouble.

Easy. Rotor cranks with Shimano chainrings. Best of both worlds. Boom.

[pushpush]

Easy. Rotor cranks with Shimano chainrings. Best of both worlds. Boom.

You are likely right. I just need a minute to come to terms with the most recent expensive lesson I'm learning.

I centered the crankset as recommended by Rotor. Then I adjusted the FD again, this time, I just put it where it needs to be rather than where Shimano says it should be. So far it is better than before but I haven't had a chance to actually ride it yet. What I have noticed is that the Rotor ring is highly susceptible to rapid changes in cadence that induce chainlash. The chain effectively just jumps off the chainring.

I'll ride this a couple of times and see how it goes. Next logical step is figuring out which shimano rings will fit. lol. An actual drug habit would be a lot cheaper!

[wltz]

The more I dig into this, the more I suspect that the rotor ring doesn't mate with the 12s chain well enough to effectively retain it at certain chain line angles. Rotor claims that these rings are compatible with shimano 2x12, so I would expect the 12s chain to be a non-issue, but it sure seems to be one.

The rotor weight savings are attractive but I'm not sure it is worth the trouble.

I've always recommended KMC chains for non-standard setups, that's what I use. My Rotor rings have never dropped the chain in normal operation, it has only ever happened multi-shifting under load when the drive side crank is between 1 and 4 o'clock, and I consider this to be a user error. Having used Shimano 12s chain with 11s drivetrains, I fail to understand the benefits, especially taking into account it being so prone to rusting. KMC chains are just better at accommodating non-standard Shimano setups, probably because KMC designed them to work with components from different vendors.