Preferred Handlebars For F8.
Moderator: robbosmans
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Currently using ENVE SES Aero Road bar with ENVE stem on my F8 which looks pretty good (my personal perference 
) but always wanted the PRO Stealth Evo combo handlerbar.
Recently thinking to change to new ENVE SES Aero Road bar so that I can tidy up the cockpit with the bar ends Di2 junction box.
) but always wanted the PRO Stealth Evo combo handlerbar.Recently thinking to change to new ENVE SES Aero Road bar so that I can tidy up the cockpit with the bar ends Di2 junction box.
I'd go for the one piece MOST Talon.
Does anyone have a legit Most Talon who would also be kind enough to check something for me? I’m wanting to know if the clamping area around the steertube is carbon wrap over a solid alloy sleeve or if it is all carbon. I have a fake in front of me and I’m comparing a couple of things. Thx.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Hi Calnago,Calnago wrote:Does anyone have a legit Most Talon who would also be kind enough to check something for me? I’m wanting to know if the clamping area around the steertube is carbon wrap over a solid alloy sleeve or if it is all carbon. I have a fake in front of me and I’m comparing a couple of things. Thx.
Have you found the differences between original and fake?. I'm receiving a supposedly legit one but don't know where to look at to verify
Enviado desde mi SM-J530F mediante Tapatalk
@osw000: I think we're talking about the same bar... buy yes... one way to tell "a" fake (there may be all kinds of other fakes out there, who knows), but in my case I called the Pinarello distributor and sent a couple pics and was told that they never printed the logos on "upside down" (from the riders standpoint, like this...
But while we're revisiting this, I might as well describe some of the other anomalies that finally ended up just trashing this bar completely and going with a legit Pro Stealth option instead.
First, the bike was brought over to me basically just to show it off. It was a Pinarello K8. It was in great shape, but I took one look at it and said "you can't possibly ride it around like that... look at that cabling..., please leave it with me to give it a once over and make it at least presentable..."
Cabling as it was...
At this point I had no reason to believe the bars were fake... then I started pulling things apart and well... nothing went well, I would be suprised if the legitimate version of these bars are as poorly designed as far as cable entry and exit points relative to the levers...
There was a big chunk of what appeared to be "filler" rather than carbon missing just above the clamp area, probably a mishap from the initial build... but it was deep. It's not like filler isn't used in legitimate products all the time either, but I would hope mostly for minor smoothing touchups before paint etc.... I was worried this could more of a structural issue...
The cables above were the replaced versions, but at this point, I had convinced the owner that these bars should be trashed and some "real" ones used instead, so at this stage I was actually stripping the thing down again to replace these bars, but decided to take a couple pics for posterity sake... here are the condition of the cables that I removed intiially...
Ok, so routing was a nightmare, especially due to the relatively sharp edges of the exit/entry holes by the lever and the close proximity to the lever, making the install a total bear.
But then there was the clamping of the stem to the steertube. The stem bolts were two piece (male/female) design, with no threads in the stem itself. In general I don't like these designs since it's hard to keep the female piece from spinning while you're trying to torque down the male side. And without proper washers and a seating surface for the bolt nut and head, it tends to just act as a grinder against the carbon surface of the stem. I suppose it's a lot easier just to drill a couple of holes all the way through and just toss in a couple male/femal bolts with it than properly thread the stem itself with alloy inserts. Anyway, the quality of the bolts and seating surfaces in the stem was so bad that this is when I decided to call the distributor to see what's up with what. I sent pics and was told the bars were definitely fake, primarily due to the upside down graphics. Sheesh... of all the things you would think be the easiest to get right in order to fool people, you'd think putting on the graphics the right side up would be one of the easiest. Oh well. So, at that point, it threw into question the legitimacy of the entire frameset, but in the end the frame was confirmed as legit. So all good on that front at least.
Lastly, and relating to my initial question/post in the this thread was whether there is a solid alloy sleeve in the stem that clamps around the steertube. The inner surface of the stem where it clamps to the steertube certainly looked to be alloy, as if there was an alloy sleeve there. But upon throwing these bars in the box for binning, a thin piece no thicker than a piece of aluminum tin foil came falling out of the stem. Lol... It was a foil wrap stuck on the inner surface of the stem where it clamps to the steertube. I don't know if the real ones are solid alloy (that's why I was asking in the first place) or if this was just a shim of sorts (although it wasn't thick enough to be providing any shimming spacer effect). It appeared to be just a cheap piece of foil stuck there for appearances, so I'm still wondering what the legit ones look like in that area.
Anyway, the bars were replaced with a Pro Vibe Stealth one piece affair and all is good.
Cal
But while we're revisiting this, I might as well describe some of the other anomalies that finally ended up just trashing this bar completely and going with a legit Pro Stealth option instead.
First, the bike was brought over to me basically just to show it off. It was a Pinarello K8. It was in great shape, but I took one look at it and said "you can't possibly ride it around like that... look at that cabling..., please leave it with me to give it a once over and make it at least presentable..."
Cabling as it was...
At this point I had no reason to believe the bars were fake... then I started pulling things apart and well... nothing went well, I would be suprised if the legitimate version of these bars are as poorly designed as far as cable entry and exit points relative to the levers...
There was a big chunk of what appeared to be "filler" rather than carbon missing just above the clamp area, probably a mishap from the initial build... but it was deep. It's not like filler isn't used in legitimate products all the time either, but I would hope mostly for minor smoothing touchups before paint etc.... I was worried this could more of a structural issue...
The cables above were the replaced versions, but at this point, I had convinced the owner that these bars should be trashed and some "real" ones used instead, so at this stage I was actually stripping the thing down again to replace these bars, but decided to take a couple pics for posterity sake... here are the condition of the cables that I removed intiially...
Ok, so routing was a nightmare, especially due to the relatively sharp edges of the exit/entry holes by the lever and the close proximity to the lever, making the install a total bear.
But then there was the clamping of the stem to the steertube. The stem bolts were two piece (male/female) design, with no threads in the stem itself. In general I don't like these designs since it's hard to keep the female piece from spinning while you're trying to torque down the male side. And without proper washers and a seating surface for the bolt nut and head, it tends to just act as a grinder against the carbon surface of the stem. I suppose it's a lot easier just to drill a couple of holes all the way through and just toss in a couple male/femal bolts with it than properly thread the stem itself with alloy inserts. Anyway, the quality of the bolts and seating surfaces in the stem was so bad that this is when I decided to call the distributor to see what's up with what. I sent pics and was told the bars were definitely fake, primarily due to the upside down graphics. Sheesh... of all the things you would think be the easiest to get right in order to fool people, you'd think putting on the graphics the right side up would be one of the easiest. Oh well. So, at that point, it threw into question the legitimacy of the entire frameset, but in the end the frame was confirmed as legit. So all good on that front at least.
Lastly, and relating to my initial question/post in the this thread was whether there is a solid alloy sleeve in the stem that clamps around the steertube. The inner surface of the stem where it clamps to the steertube certainly looked to be alloy, as if there was an alloy sleeve there. But upon throwing these bars in the box for binning, a thin piece no thicker than a piece of aluminum tin foil came falling out of the stem. Lol... It was a foil wrap stuck on the inner surface of the stem where it clamps to the steertube. I don't know if the real ones are solid alloy (that's why I was asking in the first place) or if this was just a shim of sorts (although it wasn't thick enough to be providing any shimming spacer effect). It appeared to be just a cheap piece of foil stuck there for appearances, so I'm still wondering what the legit ones look like in that area.
Anyway, the bars were replaced with a Pro Vibe Stealth one piece affair and all is good.
Cal
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
On my prior F8, I switched from a lightweight standard bar-stem combo to a one piece integrated stem \ aero bar (Chinese-made on eBay for $100 -- very pleased), and the difference was noticeable; the bike sailed through the wind.
Cannondale Supersixevo 4 (7.05 kg)
Retired: Chapter2, Tarmac SWorks SL6, Orbea, Dogma F8\F10, LOW, Wilier, Ridley Noah, Cervelo R3\R5\S2\Aspero, Time Fluidity, Lapierre Pulsium, Cyfac, Felt, Klein, Cannondale pre-CAAD aluminum
Retired: Chapter2, Tarmac SWorks SL6, Orbea, Dogma F8\F10, LOW, Wilier, Ridley Noah, Cervelo R3\R5\S2\Aspero, Time Fluidity, Lapierre Pulsium, Cyfac, Felt, Klein, Cannondale pre-CAAD aluminum
Definitely Most Talon Aero. They're really comfortable, superstiff (makes the bike decent perfectly), fits the bike to a tee (as it should), although not very light. Oh well, can't have it all
"Suddenly the thought struck me; my floor is someone elses ceiling" - Nils Ferlin
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
