Ultegra di2 or update 105 with R7000
Moderator: robbosmans
Most of you are looking at the premium groupsets. However I am perfectly happy with my 105. Unbeatable value for money and, when well maintained, technically spot on.
So now I would like to bring my bike a bit more alive again and bring down the weight. Frame is good and new wheels, seat and seatpost are now in place.
I don’t see any added value in upgrading to Ultegra mech with marginal improvements.
However... looking at Ultegra di2...
Brings me to my dilemma: go for R8050 or wait for clarity on R7000 specs.
Is the “di2” experience really value for money? What would you think?
So now I would like to bring my bike a bit more alive again and bring down the weight. Frame is good and new wheels, seat and seatpost are now in place.
I don’t see any added value in upgrading to Ultegra mech with marginal improvements.
However... looking at Ultegra di2...
Brings me to my dilemma: go for R8050 or wait for clarity on R7000 specs.
Is the “di2” experience really value for money? What would you think?
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- IrrelevantD
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R7000 specs are up on si.shimano.com, what info are you wanting?
Personally... I'm running a mix of 5800/6800 mechanical with the new FD-5801 (looks to be the same FD as the R7000) on my CX bike, and full 6870 Di2 on my road bike. Money no object, I'd go Di2. I'm seriously contemplating trying to find a deal on a 6870 upgrade group for my CX.
Di2 is no nonsense, no fuss, crisp clean shifting every time. No worries about cable streach, cable shrink/expansion due to temp, fidgeting with barrel adjusters, etc. All you really have to worry about is charging it every 4-6 months and possibly adjusting the rear trim if you switch between wheels a lot.
Personally... I'm running a mix of 5800/6800 mechanical with the new FD-5801 (looks to be the same FD as the R7000) on my CX bike, and full 6870 Di2 on my road bike. Money no object, I'd go Di2. I'm seriously contemplating trying to find a deal on a 6870 upgrade group for my CX.
Di2 is no nonsense, no fuss, crisp clean shifting every time. No worries about cable streach, cable shrink/expansion due to temp, fidgeting with barrel adjusters, etc. All you really have to worry about is charging it every 4-6 months and possibly adjusting the rear trim if you switch between wheels a lot.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
Stay with 105 or switch to di2 ultegra OR mechanical Da R9100 (maybe ultegra cassette) for same price as R8050. I assume your frame is compatible?
You would probably have to replace your bb though since you would need access to your bb area... Placing and wiring your junction box
Remember to add that ew-wu111 component for the Bluetooth/phone app
You would probably have to replace your bb though since you would need access to your bb area... Placing and wiring your junction box
Remember to add that ew-wu111 component for the Bluetooth/phone app
Factor Ostro VAM
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Colnago C60
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Good points brought up by Boshk. If you go Di2 and you have a press fit BB, you might be better off just replacing it. You can run Di2 internally with the BB in place, I've done it, but it's a colossal PITA.
Also, if you're bike isn't designed for Di2, be prepared for some workarounds or to make warranty voiding mods to your frame. I had to cut E-Tube cables and splice them back together in order to wire my Allez Sprint for Di2 without drilling extra holes in the frame.
That being said, if you have a threaded BB or a thread together PF and you're bike is designed to be Di2 complatible, it's pretty easy to get setup.
Also, if you're bike isn't designed for Di2, be prepared for some workarounds or to make warranty voiding mods to your frame. I had to cut E-Tube cables and splice them back together in order to wire my Allez Sprint for Di2 without drilling extra holes in the frame.
That being said, if you have a threaded BB or a thread together PF and you're bike is designed to be Di2 complatible, it's pretty easy to get setup.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
The new mechanical groups from Shimano are very very good. They're pretty much just a longer throw version of Di2. So, if budget is an issue, IMO it's not worth it. It's like buying an add on for you car that massages you. Great if the extra cost doesn't make a difference to you, but if you're on a budget, probably not worth it.
You can get Ultegra 6800 for pretty cheap and how much better do you want from the batteries? They last a few months and are about the size of 2.5 AA batteries.
Di2 gets my vote.
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Could always swap out the shimano pads for Kool Stop 'Salmon' versions, apparently they are one of the best pads for all weather riding, great in dry and good in wet.
Factor Ostro VAM
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=171023
Colnago C60
F12 Rim
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=159065&start=15
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=171023
Colnago C60
F12 Rim
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=159065&start=15