Having one bike for racing / training

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
mrsmithone99
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2018 11:45 am

by mrsmithone99

Hi Fellow Riders,

Firstly thank you to those who helped with my last question on carbon wheels. I currently face a dillema. I have just discovered my wheels are failing (brake track) and do not have another pair lying around...I currently have a 2011 Giant TCR Advanced that I really like riding. It has some small paint chips but is in ok condition. I plan on racing every second weekend and do 3 sessions (weeknights) on a Tacx Smart Satori trainer.

Question
I am wondering if I should get another pair of wheels to replace the failed wheels and use the failed wheels for my trainer. Or should I get another bike that will last 5 years and use my old Giant TCR just for the trainer.

Issues:
I only have $3000 AUD to spend so this gets me an ok bike but with heavy wheels...not the deep section aero wheels I could buy with $3,000 AUD
Is using my one bike on the indoor trainer ruining it? I am getting some paint chips around the rear triangle and some paint cracks - they have not grown for 12 months.
My wife has said that this is it for a couple of years so there is no saving for a better wheelset later :(

I kind of want to keep my old bike as the sole bike but don't want to be in a position where I am ruining my bike.

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Anthony

alcatraz
Posts: 920
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

I use a carbon bike on the indoor trainer (tacx vortex) but I put some soft foam under all the feet. The bike has a different feel afterwards and can sway side to side a tiny bit. Good for not stressing the carbon seat and chainstays.

Just get a new wheelset. Look over your position on the bike to score aero points. The frame itself doesn't do much no matter how many aero bike reviews you read. For speed it's always helmet/suit/fit/shoecovers/wheels/frame, and generally in that order.

Chances are your rear wheel brake tracks look better than the front. You could keep that wheel and just get a front wheel.

Also lacing new rims is not that hard. Rims are cheaper than whole wheelsets. Hubs and spokes haven't had much of any development in the last 10 years. Rims have however. (magnetic freehub mechanism is probably the only really big one for hubs)

If you are wearing out carbon rims you either have old technology, horrible brake pads or you ride 10.000km+ per year.

Maybe try a softer pad and change more often. Check for debris in the pads few times a year.

Good luck /a
Last edited by alcatraz on Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:08 am, edited 2 times in total.

moonoi
Posts: 417
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2015 3:04 pm

by moonoi

Personally I would keep the old bike on the trainer and get something new. The other advantage you have is that of you have a problem, you also have a spare bike to use.

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istigatrice
Posts: 793
Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 8:32 am
Location: Australia

by istigatrice

You don't need deep section carbon wheels to race, and your 2011 Giant TCR advanced is more than adequate assuming it's structually fine. If you like riding it keep it. As long as your not super 'rough' with the bike on the trainer I don't think it'll be an issue.

For speed the most important thing are your legs/fitness/strength, then your position on the bike. So the 'sensible' thing to do would be to save the $3k and use that money for race travel/accomodation (for VRS/state or NRS races depending on your level).

Of course, carbon wheels are nice and so is a fresh paintjob. Maybe consider sending the frame to luescher teknik for a scan (check structure) and get it repainted if the cracks bother you (shouldn't be more than 1k) and then spend the rest on some nice wheels?
I write the weightweenies blog, hope you like it :)

Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)

mrsmithone99
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2018 11:45 am

by mrsmithone99

Thank you so much for this amazing advice!

Thanks to alcatraz my other rims seem to be adequete (braking surface is ok) so I might get some wheels as I have the fit, skin suit, helmet and shoe covers.

I do t really want to have good rims on the trainer and I hate having to reindex gears with swappung wheels so Im looking for a cheap cheap bike and then will talk to Yeoleo I think for the rims... that'll be about $2,000 all up.

If anyone has any better ideas chime in!!!

istigatrice
Posts: 793
Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 8:32 am
Location: Australia

by istigatrice

One idea - use the same brand hubs on your race and training wheels. Works IME for Shimano 105/Dura Ace hubs and DT 240 too. If you have 11 speed I'd argue that you shouldn't even need to reindex the gears because all the major brands seem to be really close. For 10 speed you can use microspacers behind the cassette to shim each cassette so they all have the same index.
I write the weightweenies blog, hope you like it :)

Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)

mrsmithone99
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2018 11:45 am

by mrsmithone99

Thank you istigatrice...what a great idea!!!

Ill have a search for the hubs Im looking for...i wanted to get the rims through Yeoleo but they wont have the Powerway r36 hubs on my current wheels... they have dt swiss 340s

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LeDuke
Posts: 1145
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2012 2:39 am
Location: Front Range, CO

by LeDuke

Get some 38mm clinchers, DT 350 hubs and double butted spokes. A training and racing set of tires, if your roads dictate.

Then, Roger Musson’s wheel building book.

Knowing how to build and repair my own wheels has saved me quite a bit of money over the years.








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Stickman
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2017 1:58 am

by Stickman

mrsmithone99 wrote:
Sun Apr 01, 2018 6:22 am
I currently have a 2011 Giant TCR Advanced that I really like riding....

I am wondering if I should get another pair of wheels to replace the failed wheels and use the failed wheels for my trainer. Or should I get another bike that will last 5 years and use my old Giant TCR just for the trainer....

I only have $3000 AUD to spend...
Not sure what state you're in, but WA stores currently have the 2018 TCR Advanced Pro 1 for $3200. I measured a Large in store at 7.5kg without pedals but with the bell and wheel reflectors on. It runs Giant's in-house carbon wheelset that's about 1425g

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/tcr-advanced-pro-1

REGICYCLE
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:48 pm

by REGICYCLE

[/quote]

Not sure what state you're in, but WA stores currently have the 2018 TCR Advanced Pro 1 for $3200. I measured a Large in store at 7.5kg without pedals but with the bell and wheel reflectors on. It runs Giant's in-house carbon wheelset that's about 1425g

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/tcr-advanced-pro-1
[/quote]

I had exactly the same thought when i saw this... and if deep-sections are necessary, any shop would probably change the 30mm SLR1s for the 55mm version without price change.

Kaboom
Posts: 118
Joined: Wed Mar 22, 2017 3:53 pm

by Kaboom

mrsmithone99 wrote:
Sun Apr 01, 2018 6:22 am
I plan on racing every second weekend and do 3 sessions (weeknights) on a Tacx Smart Satori trainer
Sorry to derail this but WOW. Last season I was doing upwards of 200km a week, including lots of climbing and structured training and with an FTP of around 250w I lasted less than 15 minutes in all three races I entered in the lowest possible category available in Spain. All those 15 minutes were spent above 185-190 BPM and I withdrew when I started feeling like I was about to faint.

I'm really envious of you guys in the civilized world that actually get races where people not training upwards of 12 hours a week actually have a chance of not being dropped within the first few minutes...

As to the original question, I'm with the general feeling here. There's lots of carbon bikes that live on trainers and nothing bad has happened to them, but it is always best to have a spare. Things have come a long way since 2011 and if there's a budgetary restriction there's no need to go out and but top-of-the-line, brand spanking new equipment and it will still be more than adequate to race on.

Alternatively and considering you're gonna be racing a lot and the risk of crashing involved, I'd consider going for something like an open mould frame. The right ones are cheap, light and have great handling, and If you snap it in a crash you can always keep racing the TCR till the replacement frame comes.

Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86

I've never understood this whole "the wife says no" thing... evidently you're able to save for the bike so where is the issue with continuing to save for upgrades?

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eric01
Posts: 528
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 1:06 am

by eric01

Lol! you must not be married or have kids!
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TobinHatesYou
Posts: 1185
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

Kaboom, it’s almost like that here. NCNCA (NorCal-Nevada Cycling Association) is the most competitive region for amateur racing in the US. If you can last the first 15-20min, the pace usually slows dramatically after that for the main group.

Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86

eric01 wrote:Lol! you must not be married or have kids!
No im not, tho I've been in long term relationships and never once felt the need to tell my significant other that they can't save for something they want nor have I been told I can't save for what I want. Why should being with someone substantially change things, if you earn enough to save for toys then why can't you have them. Honest question, it's not like after you buy something the money you were saving vanishes from your budget.

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