Campagnolo 12-Speed

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reippuert
Posts: 120
Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2011 9:18 am
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

by reippuert

seamaster76 wrote:
Sat Sep 12, 2020 2:13 pm
Oil leaking is located here, everything happened since I tried to adjust the reach of the brake (not of the lever).

Image
Did you remember to set the stroke to short (there are two positions) & and lock the position with an alankey while bleeding? H11 manual clearly states that its required and you may damage the hydralic system if you dont.
--
mvh. Morten Reippuert Knudsen @Merlin Works CR, Chorus 15, Reynolds 46/66

reippuert
Posts: 120
Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2011 9:18 am
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

by reippuert

MayhemSWE wrote:
Thu Sep 03, 2020 9:03 pm
I asked Praxis Works whether the considered their chainrings compatible with Campagnolo 12. Their answer was no, but they hoped to have new product coming out during the winter with full compatibility.

Sent the same question to Rotor but they never bothered to answer…

Why can't Power2Max simply come out with a spider that has the Campy 4-arm BCD but where the crank interface fits a Rotor arm?!
The lack of esponse from Rotor is why AGR2 had to switch from Campagnolo to Shimano mid season last year.

Apperantly sponsor contract is with Rotor, Merckx/Ridley and Mavic - either Merckx or Team buys their groupsets.
Groupset of choice by Team & Merckx was Campagnolo but they had to switch the the 2nd best (Shimano) mid season because Rotor couldn't/wouldn't make 12 speed chainrings.

I wouldnt count on Rotor to ever make Camganolo 12 speed chainrings.
--
mvh. Morten Reippuert Knudsen @Merlin Works CR, Chorus 15, Reynolds 46/66

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Unniti
Posts: 506
Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2020 3:35 pm

by Unniti

barbaar wrote:
Thu Oct 01, 2020 9:33 am
Jumps are never too tight. In my region, I will never use anything above 21 in the rear. I like to have a cassette with the biggest sprocket I will use. If I go to the Alps, that will me either 27 or 29. In my region, that would be a 21. But an 11-21 does not exist. To the nearest best option is an 23. The smaller the jumps are, the better.

Given the forum we are on: the smaller the sprockets are, the lighter your bike is :P
There actually is such a thing as jumps too tight. When you start going close to 5% jumps, as is with 11 - 23 and other absurdly tight cassettes the gear changes don't actually change your cadence much. In an ideal world (on a smart trainer with ERG) you'll be able to ride at your preferred cadence at all times. When you go outside that's not the case. Having jumps in the 6 - 10% range is ideal as at that point your gear changes actually feel like gear changes and you don't need to go through half the cassette to find an appropriate gear. When climbing having a few bigger jumps at the end to help is also often beneficial.

If you live in a flat area and absolutely have to have a corn cob then just don't buy new stuff. There's no advantage and as you said it's more weight. Often reading this forum it baffles me when people complain when companies release new products that are improvements to the vast majorority of users but it doesn't fit their super small niche that already has a product and the only "improvements" to it would be new stickers or paint jobs.

ghisallo2003
Posts: 742
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 7:10 pm

by ghisallo2003

I agree that too small a change in cadence and it does not seem worth the change in gear.

However, it amazes me that given the marginal gains philosophy and cadence certainly being a contributor to this, that teams are not seeking closer climbing ratios to optimise efficiency.

LionelB
Posts: 1595
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:09 pm
Location: Aix en Provence

by LionelB

barbaar wrote:
Thu Oct 01, 2020 10:02 am
gorkypl wrote:
Thu Oct 01, 2020 9:40 am
Also, changing from 11-23 to 11-29 when going to the Alps would require changing the RD too. Not sure if this is what you would prefer?
No.. any (Record) 11sp from 2015 or newer can do both cassettes. I'm sure that goes for 12sp as well..
Just stay with 11s or 10s

tomato
Posts: 729
Joined: Mon Jul 01, 2019 8:37 pm

by tomato

Unniti wrote:
Thu Oct 01, 2020 12:30 pm
There actually is such a thing as jumps too tight. When you start going close to 5% jumps, as is with 11 - 23 and other absurdly tight cassettes the gear changes don't actually change your cadence much. In an ideal world (on a smart trainer with ERG) you'll be able to ride at your preferred cadence at all times. When you go outside that's not the case. Having jumps in the 6 - 10% range is ideal as at that point your gear changes actually feel like gear changes and you don't need to go through half the cassette to find an appropriate gear. When climbing having a few bigger jumps at the end to help is also often beneficial.
The hypothetical 11-23 cassette comes a lot closer to meeting your 6-10% "ideal" gear change requirement than the available 11-29, 11-32, and 11-34 cassettes do.

GS100
Posts: 256
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2015 12:00 pm

by GS100

Unniti wrote:
Thu Oct 01, 2020 12:30 pm

Often reading this forum it baffles me when people complain when companies release new products that are improvements to the vast majorority of users but it doesn't fit their super small niche that already has a product and the only "improvements" to it would be new stickers or paint jobs.
It would seem to be catering to a niche to only start casettes with 11t. That was my (and others') complaint. A 12-27 option on 12s would be an improvemt over the 12-27 I currently run on 10s
🤷‍♂️

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seamaster76
Posts: 106
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2018 9:54 pm
Location: Italy
Contact:

by seamaster76

reippuert wrote:
seamaster76 wrote:
Sat Sep 12, 2020 2:13 pm
Oil leaking is located here, everything happened since I tried to adjust the reach of the brake (not of the lever).

Image
Did you remember to set the stroke to short (there are two positions) & and lock the position with an alankey while bleeding? H11 manual clearly states that its required and you may damage the hydralic system if you dont.
I guess that what you figured out...just happened!

I’m still using my bike for pretty flat ride, will go to LBS by the end of October.

Image

Butcher
Shop Owner
Posts: 1925
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:58 am

by Butcher

My biggest issue with the Campy 12 is the gear ratios in the cassette. I was thinking if I got the 11/29 and swapped my 53/39 to a 53/42, that may fit the roads in my area. Right now, I use a SR11 53/39 12/25.

Anyone use a 53/42 or ever a 54/42?

ParisCarbon
Posts: 1918
Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:39 am
Location: Winnipeg Canada

by ParisCarbon

If you can manage to get a 54/42 12s setup I want one too for my Venge! Anything these days over 53/39 is "Team Use Only" it seems.. Im running a 54/39 setup on my SL5 SR 11s with an 11-25 block... biggest hill I see all day is the overpass over the highway... we don't have hills where I live... a 40kmh headwind is just another day here on the prairies..

TheTalentedMrH
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2020 2:31 am

by TheTalentedMrH

I'm having a problem where my Chorus 12 speed is only taking 9 shifts from the lever to travel from the smallest to largest cog. Has anyone experience this before? I've replaced the housing, the derailleur, the cables, adjusted b screw and height.

I feel like I'm getting something fundamentally wrong here, or in the worst case, there is something wrong with the frame

Butcher
Shop Owner
Posts: 1925
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:58 am

by Butcher

WIth my set up, I would love to have a 11 but I like the 18 more than I would use an 11. I do not need a 27 or up and I have a climbing wheelset that has a 12/29 [I run a semi compact 52/36 when I spend the time in the mountains]. There is nothing that I cannot handle with a 53/39 and a 12-25 as my daily driver.

With the 11-29 that a 12sp has and if a 42 works, I would have a slightly lower and higher gear I have now. At this time, I do not see anyone that will be making a cassette less than a 29. Just trying to justify my wants for a 12sp.

DaveS
Posts: 3922
Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2006 1:26 pm
Location: Loveland Colorado

by DaveS

TheTalentedMrH wrote:
Fri Oct 02, 2020 3:45 pm
I'm having a problem where my Chorus 12 speed is only taking 9 shifts from the lever to travel from the smallest to largest cog. Has anyone experience this before? I've replaced the housing, the derailleur, the cables, adjusted b screw and height.

I feel like I'm getting something fundamentally wrong here, or in the worst case, there is something wrong with the frame
Have you attached the shift cable incorrectly? Only a short lever arm length would do that.

TheTalentedMrH
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2020 2:31 am

by TheTalentedMrH

DaveS wrote:
Fri Oct 02, 2020 6:01 pm
TheTalentedMrH wrote:
Fri Oct 02, 2020 3:45 pm
I'm having a problem where my Chorus 12 speed is only taking 9 shifts from the lever to travel from the smallest to largest cog. Has anyone experience this before? I've replaced the housing, the derailleur, the cables, adjusted b screw and height.

I feel like I'm getting something fundamentally wrong here, or in the worst case, there is something wrong with the frame
Have you attached the shift cable incorrectly? Only a short lever arm length would do that.
I believe so. Its very strange. If I take the cable out, I can shift 11 times as expected, but once connected it, it goes from the lowest cog to the highest cog in 9 shifts, which as you can imagine doesn't work. This is with the chain on and off. I can't imagine the indexing is off, potentially the derailleur parallelogram is broken.

by Weenie


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rudye9mr
Posts: 498
Joined: Wed May 01, 2019 12:01 pm

by rudye9mr

Set up on 5th cog with same shifts on shifter from 11tooth...tension RD for upshift and downshift using 5th cog as baseline...

Is it internal routing?

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