Did you remember to set the stroke to short (there are two positions) & and lock the position with an alankey while bleeding? H11 manual clearly states that its required and you may damage the hydralic system if you dont.seamaster76 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 12, 2020 2:13 pmOil leaking is located here, everything happened since I tried to adjust the reach of the brake (not of the lever).
Campagnolo 12-Speed
Moderator: robbosmans
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mvh. Morten Reippuert Knudsen @Merlin Works CR, Chorus 15, Reynolds 46/66
mvh. Morten Reippuert Knudsen @Merlin Works CR, Chorus 15, Reynolds 46/66
The lack of esponse from Rotor is why AGR2 had to switch from Campagnolo to Shimano mid season last year.MayhemSWE wrote: ↑Thu Sep 03, 2020 9:03 pmI asked Praxis Works whether the considered their chainrings compatible with Campagnolo 12. Their answer was no, but they hoped to have new product coming out during the winter with full compatibility.
Sent the same question to Rotor but they never bothered to answer…
Why can't Power2Max simply come out with a spider that has the Campy 4-arm BCD but where the crank interface fits a Rotor arm?!
Apperantly sponsor contract is with Rotor, Merckx/Ridley and Mavic - either Merckx or Team buys their groupsets.
Groupset of choice by Team & Merckx was Campagnolo but they had to switch the the 2nd best (Shimano) mid season because Rotor couldn't/wouldn't make 12 speed chainrings.
I wouldnt count on Rotor to ever make Camganolo 12 speed chainrings.
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mvh. Morten Reippuert Knudsen @Merlin Works CR, Chorus 15, Reynolds 46/66
mvh. Morten Reippuert Knudsen @Merlin Works CR, Chorus 15, Reynolds 46/66
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There actually is such a thing as jumps too tight. When you start going close to 5% jumps, as is with 11 - 23 and other absurdly tight cassettes the gear changes don't actually change your cadence much. In an ideal world (on a smart trainer with ERG) you'll be able to ride at your preferred cadence at all times. When you go outside that's not the case. Having jumps in the 6 - 10% range is ideal as at that point your gear changes actually feel like gear changes and you don't need to go through half the cassette to find an appropriate gear. When climbing having a few bigger jumps at the end to help is also often beneficial.barbaar wrote: ↑Thu Oct 01, 2020 9:33 amJumps are never too tight. In my region, I will never use anything above 21 in the rear. I like to have a cassette with the biggest sprocket I will use. If I go to the Alps, that will me either 27 or 29. In my region, that would be a 21. But an 11-21 does not exist. To the nearest best option is an 23. The smaller the jumps are, the better.
Given the forum we are on: the smaller the sprockets are, the lighter your bike is
If you live in a flat area and absolutely have to have a corn cob then just don't buy new stuff. There's no advantage and as you said it's more weight. Often reading this forum it baffles me when people complain when companies release new products that are improvements to the vast majorority of users but it doesn't fit their super small niche that already has a product and the only "improvements" to it would be new stickers or paint jobs.
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I agree that too small a change in cadence and it does not seem worth the change in gear.
However, it amazes me that given the marginal gains philosophy and cadence certainly being a contributor to this, that teams are not seeking closer climbing ratios to optimise efficiency.
However, it amazes me that given the marginal gains philosophy and cadence certainly being a contributor to this, that teams are not seeking closer climbing ratios to optimise efficiency.
The hypothetical 11-23 cassette comes a lot closer to meeting your 6-10% "ideal" gear change requirement than the available 11-29, 11-32, and 11-34 cassettes do.Unniti wrote: ↑Thu Oct 01, 2020 12:30 pmThere actually is such a thing as jumps too tight. When you start going close to 5% jumps, as is with 11 - 23 and other absurdly tight cassettes the gear changes don't actually change your cadence much. In an ideal world (on a smart trainer with ERG) you'll be able to ride at your preferred cadence at all times. When you go outside that's not the case. Having jumps in the 6 - 10% range is ideal as at that point your gear changes actually feel like gear changes and you don't need to go through half the cassette to find an appropriate gear. When climbing having a few bigger jumps at the end to help is also often beneficial.
It would seem to be catering to a niche to only start casettes with 11t. That was my (and others') complaint. A 12-27 option on 12s would be an improvemt over the 12-27 I currently run on 10sUnniti wrote: ↑Thu Oct 01, 2020 12:30 pm
Often reading this forum it baffles me when people complain when companies release new products that are improvements to the vast majorority of users but it doesn't fit their super small niche that already has a product and the only "improvements" to it would be new stickers or paint jobs.
- seamaster76
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I guess that what you figured out...just happened!reippuert wrote:Did you remember to set the stroke to short (there are two positions) & and lock the position with an alankey while bleeding? H11 manual clearly states that its required and you may damage the hydralic system if you dont.seamaster76 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 12, 2020 2:13 pmOil leaking is located here, everything happened since I tried to adjust the reach of the brake (not of the lever).
I’m still using my bike for pretty flat ride, will go to LBS by the end of October.
My biggest issue with the Campy 12 is the gear ratios in the cassette. I was thinking if I got the 11/29 and swapped my 53/39 to a 53/42, that may fit the roads in my area. Right now, I use a SR11 53/39 12/25.
Anyone use a 53/42 or ever a 54/42?
Anyone use a 53/42 or ever a 54/42?
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If you can manage to get a 54/42 12s setup I want one too for my Venge! Anything these days over 53/39 is "Team Use Only" it seems.. Im running a 54/39 setup on my SL5 SR 11s with an 11-25 block... biggest hill I see all day is the overpass over the highway... we don't have hills where I live... a 40kmh headwind is just another day here on the prairies..
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I'm having a problem where my Chorus 12 speed is only taking 9 shifts from the lever to travel from the smallest to largest cog. Has anyone experience this before? I've replaced the housing, the derailleur, the cables, adjusted b screw and height.
I feel like I'm getting something fundamentally wrong here, or in the worst case, there is something wrong with the frame
I feel like I'm getting something fundamentally wrong here, or in the worst case, there is something wrong with the frame
WIth my set up, I would love to have a 11 but I like the 18 more than I would use an 11. I do not need a 27 or up and I have a climbing wheelset that has a 12/29 [I run a semi compact 52/36 when I spend the time in the mountains]. There is nothing that I cannot handle with a 53/39 and a 12-25 as my daily driver.
With the 11-29 that a 12sp has and if a 42 works, I would have a slightly lower and higher gear I have now. At this time, I do not see anyone that will be making a cassette less than a 29. Just trying to justify my wants for a 12sp.
With the 11-29 that a 12sp has and if a 42 works, I would have a slightly lower and higher gear I have now. At this time, I do not see anyone that will be making a cassette less than a 29. Just trying to justify my wants for a 12sp.
Have you attached the shift cable incorrectly? Only a short lever arm length would do that.TheTalentedMrH wrote: ↑Fri Oct 02, 2020 3:45 pmI'm having a problem where my Chorus 12 speed is only taking 9 shifts from the lever to travel from the smallest to largest cog. Has anyone experience this before? I've replaced the housing, the derailleur, the cables, adjusted b screw and height.
I feel like I'm getting something fundamentally wrong here, or in the worst case, there is something wrong with the frame
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I believe so. Its very strange. If I take the cable out, I can shift 11 times as expected, but once connected it, it goes from the lowest cog to the highest cog in 9 shifts, which as you can imagine doesn't work. This is with the chain on and off. I can't imagine the indexing is off, potentially the derailleur parallelogram is broken.DaveS wrote: ↑Fri Oct 02, 2020 6:01 pmHave you attached the shift cable incorrectly? Only a short lever arm length would do that.TheTalentedMrH wrote: ↑Fri Oct 02, 2020 3:45 pmI'm having a problem where my Chorus 12 speed is only taking 9 shifts from the lever to travel from the smallest to largest cog. Has anyone experience this before? I've replaced the housing, the derailleur, the cables, adjusted b screw and height.
I feel like I'm getting something fundamentally wrong here, or in the worst case, there is something wrong with the frame
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