Campagnolo 12-Speed

[Leon]

What am I doing wrong?

You should be ok yes. The tech manual of Campagnolo contains the length of the derailleur hanger. So you can check if the length is inline or not.

I'm running Record on a CAAD12 disc but with a 29. No issues what so ever. But you already stated that also.

[Dov]

If I need to replace only the cable innner on a maximum smoothness gear cable set. Which thing do I buy?

[rollinslow]

If I need to replace only the cable innner on a maximum smoothness gear cable set. Which thing do I buy?

You really need to replace both at the same time. When you remover the cable, pulliing dirt and damaging the lining of the housing it will make your shifting poor. Just buy the replacemnt maximum smoothness set.

[Leon]

If I need to replace only the cable innner on a maximum smoothness gear cable set. Which thing do I buy?

Replace both indeed. I run Jagwire Elite sealed cables. When replacing a new inner I just need to change the liner also but not the outer cable. Only downside is that the Jagwire set is not coming with Campa cables. You need to order them seperatly. And they are quite expensive...

[usr]

If I need to replace only the cable innner on a maximum smoothness gear cable set. Which thing do I buy?

I went with highest grade Jagwire (ultra elite whatever polished inners, in the Campag TMS outers) , happy with the result (wasn't happy with regular cheap old campag inners)

[bikeboy1tr]

I looking for a little help with my new 12-speed Record setup. Specifically with switching between the 11-29 and 11-34 cassette.

I'm having to add a whole lot of "b-tension" in order to get the chain to shift up to the 34T cog. So much so that it seems to lead to compromised shifting in the smaller sprockets. The gear changes just become sloppy and lag.

I wonder about needing a bit more chain length, but the campy setup recommendations seem to suggest the same chain length regardless of cassette. According to the geometry charts, my 60cm CAAD12 has 407mm chainstays and puts me square in their "110 link" window, but when I'm running the 11-34 with my 53/39, I know I'm stretching the chain pretty far.

I've been told that the CAAD12's use a pretty short hanger, but I'd be surprised if it was short enough to throw the shifting. Doesn't look particularly short compared to some others.

I'm kind of at a loss at this point. It shifts beautifully with my 11-29 cassette - sublime-, but I really do expect better performance when I head to the big mountains. What am I doing wrong?
(Yes my rear mech has the 34t markings on the back)

I found my 12sp was very sensitive to the B screw adjustments as when I installed the Edco cass it didnt shift all that well until I turned the B screw out bringing the pulley up close to the smaller rear cogs. I am running 12/29 which wasnt an issue with the pulley rubbing the 29 when adjusting the B screw. I would try running a longer chain to keep the pulley as close as possible to the rear cog

[snapshot21]

First time EPS user here.
Is it normal that the left lever (FD) becomes unresponsive or on sort of "standby mode" after a while of no shifting?
I find that in order for me to "wake up" the left lever and shift my front mech, I have to either shift the RD first or press the mode button.
My right lever is responsive all the time.
Is this normal behavior or is there a setting I can change?
Thanks!

[Miller]

First time EPS user here.
Is it normal that the left lever (FD) becomes unresponsive or on sort of "standby mode" after a while of no shifting?

No, it isn't, that sounds like a fault to me. Left lever should be as responsive as the right.

[snapshot21]

No, it isn't, that sounds like a fault to me. Left lever should be as responsive as the right.

Yeah Its weird. Once it wakes up, it shifts fine and is very responsive, but when I dont use it again for around 1 minute, it sleeps again.
Will have my LBS check it.

[Moltobene]

I currently experience chain drops once or twice a week, only in the big-big(ger) combinations, i.e. when crosschaining ony my chorus setup.
Chain is new, I redid the front and rear derailleur setups and still happened to me yesterday, even though the front derailleur quickly put the chain back onto the big ring.
I'm on 400mm chainstays and the chain is 110 links, should I look into shortening it? Or what's the course of action for getting rid of that?

[gorkypl]

I currently experience chain drops once or twice a week, only in the big-big(ger) combinations, i.e. when crosschaining ony my chorus setup.
Chain is new, I redid the front and rear derailleur setups and still happened to me yesterday, even though the front derailleur quickly put the chain back onto the big ring.
I'm on 400mm chainstays and the chain is 110 links, should I look into shortening it? Or what's the course of action for getting rid of that?

Campagnolo officially does not support chainstays shoreter than 405mm. What size chainrings are you using? 108 links may work a bit better in this scenario, but it should not cause chain drops anyway.
I would suggest redoing the FD setup meticulously sticking to the manual, especially making sure the derailleur is parallell to the rings (using proper Campy tool) and the limits are set spot on.

[Nickldn]

I currently experience chain drops once or twice a week, only in the big-big(ger) combinations, i.e. when crosschaining ony my chorus setup.
Chain is new, I redid the front and rear derailleur setups and still happened to me yesterday, even though the front derailleur quickly put the chain back onto the big ring.
I'm on 400mm chainstays and the chain is 110 links, should I look into shortening it? Or what's the course of action for getting rid of that?

I found the Chorus 12s FD pernickety to set up. Had lots of chain drops, which scratched my frame.

A Campy chain catcher and very meticulous setup of the FD limit screws and cable tension, with test rides in between each change solved the issue. Even 1/8 of a turn of a limit screw can lead to problems. No more chain drops now and reliable front shifts all the way.

[Moltobene]

Campagnolo officially does not support chainstays shoreter than 405mm. What size chainrings are you using? 108 links may work a bit better in this scenario, but it should not cause chain drops anyway.
I would suggest redoing the FD setup meticulously sticking to the manual, especially making sure the derailleur is parallell to the rings (using proper Campy tool) and the limits are set spot on.

As far as I know, neither does Shimano support shorter chainstays than 405mm. However, bikes are being sold like that, so I want to get it to work properly.
I'm on 52/36 and 11-32.
I used the proper Campy tool fo FD setup and did it according to the manual. Even in the trimmed big ring position, the FD should not allow for a dropped chain as there is room for no contact of the chain to the FD but not any more. Also, FD shifting is perfect when I actually want to shift. That's why I thought it might have to do with the chain tension or something else related to the RD.

I found the Chorus 12s FD pernickety to set up. Had lots of chain drops, which scratched my frame.

A Campy chain catcher and very meticulous setup of the FD limit screws and cable tension, with test rides in between each change solved the issue. Even 1/8 of a turn of a limit screw can lead to problems. No more chain drops now and reliable front shifts all the way.

Currently waiting for a Campy chain catcher. Also, it's not actually the front shifting I'm unhappy with but rather the chain dropping when there's crosschaining going on or I'm shifting in the bigger sprockets. This had me thinking about it being related to the RD or chain tension, but people on here are way more competent on the subject than I am.

[gorkypl]

The fact that bikes are being sold with frames not designed according to specs does not mean they will work properly. Problematic FD shifting with SRAM 2x is probably a more common example that proves it happens.

Anyway:
If the chain drops around FD it is normally not caused by problems with chain tension, as the RD tensioning affects the bottom half of the chain, and the top half is tensioned by the force applied to the pedals. However, when rear shifting is rough and the chain jumps on the upper part of the cassette, this can create a momentarily jump around FD which in turn can throw the chain off the front ring.

Also, I have only now understood that in your scenario the chain drops from big ring to small ring, and not outside the big ring or inside the small ring. In such situation the chain catcher would not help, and I would blame the combination of out-of-spec chainstays and (maybe) rough RD shifting. The first one you cannot improve, and for the second - I guess you have already tried fine-tuning the H-screw on RD to track the cassette as close as possible?

[Moltobene]

Anyway:
If the chain drops around FD it is normally not caused by problems with chain tension, as the RD tensioning affects the bottom half of the chain, and the top half is tensioned by the force applied to the pedals. However, when rear shifting is rough and the chain jumps on the upper part of the cassette, this can create a momentarily jump around FD which in turn can throw the chain off the front ring.

Also, I have only now understood that in your scenario the chain drops from big ring to small ring, and not outside the big ring or inside the small ring. In such situation the chain catcher would not help, and I would blame the combination of out-of-spec chainstays and rough RD shifting. The first one you cannot improve, and for the second - I guess you have already tried fine-tuning the H-screw on RD to track the cassette as close as possible?

This is what it feels like, yea. Sometimes, the chain would drop completely to the inside, yesterday – after tuning the FD again and changing the chain – it did only drop to the small ring. I did try to get the H-Screw as close as possible, but I feel like "no upward trajectory of the chain" is kind of vague and hard to judge.
I also thought that a shorter chain would jump less, which is why I considered that.