Campagnolo 12-Speed

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usr
Posts: 942
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2021 5:58 pm

by usr

Shmitt wrote:
Sun May 02, 2021 5:01 pm
I have a question about the brake cables. I want to do the routing of the rear brake cable in the top tube of the bicycle frame in casing. How long is the casing of the rear brake, is there enough from the lever handle to the rear brake caliper?
Not in the Ergopower set, you'd need to buy separately.

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Shmitt
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Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:52 pm

by Shmitt

usr wrote:
Sun May 02, 2021 5:44 pm
Shmitt wrote:
Sun May 02, 2021 5:01 pm
I have a question about the brake cables. I want to do the routing of the rear brake cable in the top tube of the bicycle frame in casing. How long is the casing of the rear brake, is there enough from the lever handle to the rear brake caliper?
Not in the Ergopower set, you'd need to buy separately.
So what does it get from campagnolo shifters? just shift cables and hamucow cables, what about casing?

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Miller
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Location: Reading, UK

by Miller

With new campag ergolevers you get enough gear outer casing to terminate at head tube or upper part of down tube. Nowhere near enough for a full outer cable run.

Shmitt
Posts: 114
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:52 pm

by Shmitt

Miller wrote:
Sun May 02, 2021 7:23 pm
With new campag ergolevers you get enough gear outer casing to terminate at head tube or upper part of down tube. Nowhere near enough for a full outer cable run.
the gear shifting cable will be guided externally. It's about the length of the casing, the housing of the brake cable to guide from the shifter to the rear brake,

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Miller
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by Miller

Sorry, missed that it was brake. I've only installed disc in recent years and you get plenty of hose. For rim brakes I'm pretty sure there's enough outer to reach the rear brake but as I say it's been a while.

Bobbyc123
Posts: 276
Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2020 10:40 am

by Bobbyc123

Shmitt wrote:
Sun May 02, 2021 7:43 pm
Miller wrote:
Sun May 02, 2021 7:23 pm
With new campag ergolevers you get enough gear outer casing to terminate at head tube or upper part of down tube. Nowhere near enough for a full outer cable run.
the gear shifting cable will be guided externally. It's about the length of the casing, the housing of the brake cable to guide from the shifter to the rear brake,
I just did a brake line recently. You should have enough to run the brake outer the entire length of the toptube.

Bobbyc123
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Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2020 10:40 am

by Bobbyc123

Actually correction. Just realised the was ultra shift 11s cables. Not sure about the new "12s" max smooth ones^

icyhotchaz
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Jan 06, 2021 7:36 pm

by icyhotchaz

Need to post a PSA in here regarding my experience with 12 speed chorus chainring bolts falling out.

Ive purchased both disc and rim brake versions of the campy chorus 12 groupsets from Merlin (awesome discounts both times), one a year ago and the other in February '21. In BOTH instances, after around 500 miles, the chainring bolts inexplicably come out! Not all of them, but I'll hear a pinging and upon inspection learn its the little ring clanging against the big ring due to it not being bolted on anymore.

Campy has covered replacement bolts and chainrings both times. The first instance got an extra treatment of some industrial locktite and extra torque from the mechanic- this one's held up without issue ever since, a good 3k+ miles (now my backup bike). I tried to be preemptive with the second groupset, requesting extra locktite and torque on the bolts when the bike was being assembled, but alas, it did not prevent the bolts from coming out.

Not sure if the issue is with Merlin's stock, chorus chainrings, chorus chainring bolts, or what, but wanted to give the internet a heads up since two occurances seems far from chance/bad luck alone.

simbikotic
Posts: 154
Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2020 12:52 am

by simbikotic

icyhotchaz wrote:
Thu May 06, 2021 6:18 pm
Need to post a PSA in here regarding my experience with 12 speed chorus chainring bolts falling out.

Ive purchased both disc and rim brake versions of the campy chorus 12 groupsets from Merlin (awesome discounts both times), one a year ago and the other in February '21. In BOTH instances, after around 500 miles, the chainring bolts inexplicably come out! Not all of them, but I'll hear a pinging and upon inspection learn its the little ring clanging against the big ring due to it not being bolted on anymore.

Campy has covered replacement bolts and chainrings both times. The first instance got an extra treatment of some industrial locktite and extra torque from the mechanic- this one's held up without issue ever since, a good 3k+ miles (now my backup bike). I tried to be preemptive with the second groupset, requesting extra locktite and torque on the bolts when the bike was being assembled, but alas, it did not prevent the bolts from coming out.

Not sure if the issue is with Merlin's stock, chorus chainrings, chorus chainring bolts, or what, but wanted to give the internet a heads up since two occurances seems far from chance/bad luck alone.
+1 - Exactly the same experience. Chorus 12, bought from Merlin. The small ring popped off after only ~300km. Campy dealt with it really well I have to say. I asked for new bolts they said no - they'll send me new bolts *and* rings.

Some thoughts about this. The Campy guy told me that these chainring bolts should have purple loctite on the threads. I think a batch may have left the factory without this. There was no evidence of loctite on my bolts. I also have a 12 sp record chainset on another build. I removed a chainring bolt to check and this gave a reassuring snap as the adhesive freed and I could see a spot of adhesive on the thread.

Also, on the Chorus chainring the small ring bolts into the body of the big ring and there are only about four turns of thread. I don't think this is a great design. On Record the small ring bolts into a boss on the spider, which is much deeper.

simbikotic
Posts: 154
Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2020 12:52 am

by simbikotic

Oh - one more thing. A nice tip I learned (elsewhere on this forum) Is to put a small blob of white paint on the edge of each chainring bolt. This makes it really easy to do a quick visual check after a ride to see if the bolt has moved. I have done this to all my bikes since this experience....

icyhotchaz
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Jan 06, 2021 7:36 pm

by icyhotchaz

simbikotic wrote:
Thu May 06, 2021 6:57 pm
Oh - one more thing. A nice tip I learned (elsewhere on this forum) Is to put a small blob of white paint on the edge of each chainring bolt. This makes it really easy to do a quick visual check after a ride to see if the bolt has moved. I have done this to all my bikes since this experience....
Will have to do this! Thanks for the tip :)

Butcher
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Posts: 1931
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by Butcher

A properly tighten bolt does not come loose. I know plenty of mechanics that like the paint dot method. It goes against what I believe. A properly tighten bolt does not come loose. Waste of paint and adds weight. Before anyone says anything, check what forum we are on.

Sounds like Campagnolo forgot to put some locktite on the bolt and therefore they came loose. Offering bolts and rings the the right way to do this.

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JKolmo
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by JKolmo

Hmm, maybe it’s best to use black or blue or some other colored paint then. In order to save weight that is. White paint is usually heavier I have learnt - on this very WW forum.

Shmitt
Posts: 114
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:52 pm

by Shmitt

looking for a barrel adjuster for shifting cables. I found something like this:

https://www.bike24.com/p2117138.html?me ... ,1900,1902

, but is it possible to buy similar-looking barrels somewhere, only with a thread?

by Weenie


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mortirolo
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by mortirolo

Hambini is a joke:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INPx9-YtgCA

Floated drive side crank. :shock:
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