Campagnolo 12-Speed

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Shmitt
Posts: 114
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:52 pm

by Shmitt

practically stick to the instructions in the manual and it shouldn't be a big problem, as in probably all road groups the tolerance is small (especially in twelve speed), but you shouldn't have any problems with tuning the equipment. I personally wire the chains, rather than using a quick coupler. Certainly others can advise you on quicklink.

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joralieu
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2020 10:25 pm

by joralieu

My wifes bike has 12 speed record rimbrake shifters. She is having trouble with the left thumb shifter locking up occasionally. I have noticed you have to push pretty hard to make the move from the big ring to the little ring. Any ideas on how to make this shift a liittle easier?

ReactiveE
Posts: 112
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2019 3:56 pm

by ReactiveE

Shmitt wrote:
Wed Aug 17, 2022 7:24 pm
practically stick to the instructions in the manual and it shouldn't be a big problem, as in probably all road groups the tolerance is small (especially in twelve speed), but you shouldn't have any problems with tuning the equipment. I personally wire the chains, rather than using a quick coupler. Certainly others can advise you on quicklink.
Thanks, I´m not using quicklink. I bought new chain and there is connecting pin included.

ReactiveE
Posts: 112
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2019 3:56 pm

by ReactiveE

joeyb1000 wrote:
Wed Oct 07, 2020 11:53 pm
Zorka,

I’ve done several Mechanical 12s installations so far. Here is my best process.
1. Attach derailleurs and crankset, not chain. Don’t attach cables to derailleurs.
2. Tighten inner FD adjustment screw so that outer cage is above large chainring. Set height at 2mm above chainring (a popsicle stick is about 2mm).
3. Tighten inner FD adjustment screw so that outer cage is close to the crank arm. Using the crank arm as a guide (or hold the popsicle stick against the chainring), make the outer derailleur cage parallel to chainring. Must be perfect.
4. Unscrew FD adjuster screw. Install chain. Attach cables. Set up rear derailleur per Campy instructions.
5. In small chainring and largest cog, set FD inner adjustment screw so that derailleur is almost touching the chain per Campy instructions.
6. Move to smallest cog. Move FD shifter one micro-click. Set FD barrel adjuster so that the chain does not rub on the FD cage, but not more.
7. Shift to large chainring. Adjust FD outer adjustment screw so that chain does not rub on the outer FD cage per Campy instructions (Ignore the barrel adjuster in this step; the 12s FD is double-jointed).

Other notes: Campy’s derailleur cables are critical and very expensive; you are better off cutting them too long and fixing later. Campy’s chain catcher FD-SR203 is becoming hard to find, so buy one now. Campy includes an in-line FD barrel adjuster in case your frame doesn’t have one. photos are from EPS, but still apply.
I just found your post, it will help a lot with my build. Any advices about optimal chain and housing lengths? On 11s Campag groups I´ve seen pretty long rear derailleur cable housing. Is it required with SR12 to work properly as well?

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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

joralieu wrote:My wifes bike has 12 speed record rimbrake shifters. She is having trouble with the left thumb shifter locking up occasionally. I have noticed you have to push pretty hard to make the move from the big ring to the little ring. Any ideas on how to make this shift a liittle easier?
Check that the mechanism isn’t being fouled by the tape or hoods.


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gorkypl
Posts: 529
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2018 9:31 am
Location: Poland

by gorkypl

ultimobici wrote:
Fri Aug 19, 2022 7:51 am
joralieu wrote:My wifes bike has 12 speed record rimbrake shifters. She is having trouble with the left thumb shifter locking up occasionally. I have noticed you have to push pretty hard to make the move from the big ring to the little ring. Any ideas on how to make this shift a liittle easier?
Check that the mechanism isn’t being fouled by the tape or hoods.


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Also wrongly set limits and/or cable tension can result in this.

Fuji Cross 1.5 - Shimano 105 5800 | Cinelli Superstar Disc - Record 12s | Custom steel Karamba - Ekar 13s

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Miller
Posts: 2764
Joined: Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:54 pm
Location: Reading, UK

by Miller

With mech campag even a light touch on the thumb lever can lock out the shifting action so watch where you put your thumb

As for chain length the booklet with the chain specifies the exact number of links required.

bikeboy1tr
Posts: 1395
Joined: Thu Mar 21, 2013 3:19 am
Location: Southern Ontario Canada

by bikeboy1tr

I found if I was resting my fingers on the upshift lever for going to the big ring that the thumb button would lock up and that was on Campy 10 right to 12sp.
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harblhat
Posts: 187
Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2011 12:18 am

by harblhat

Can anyone comment on the functional difference between the Record and Super Record cranksets? I know SR has ceramic bearings, titanium axle, hollow arms, and extended ring bracing but would like to know if this manifests itself in a noticeable difference. I have read some discussion that the ceramic bearings are more durable.

I'm new to Campy and starting a 12s build. With Shimano and SRAM there are no real functional differences between their top and second tier cranks, just weight and sometimes construction.

Roadrocket
Posts: 355
Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2018 8:43 am
Location: Slovakia

by Roadrocket

I was in the same boat and I went for the Super Record 12s groupset just because it was actually cheaper than Record. The cranks are beautiful and well made, but Record don´t lack in this regard. CULT bearings are nice, but when they are worn I´ll replace them for standard steel ones. There is no advantage using ceramic bearings in bottom brackets. I can´t comment about axle, but I am sure you won´t feel the difference in stiffness or rigidity between those two.
So I think SR is nicer and lighter than R, but no functional difference.

Alexandrumarian
Posts: 795
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2016 6:34 pm
Location: Romania

by Alexandrumarian

Actually there is a downside with the steel bearings, they can rust and die after a major rain. Happened to me, and heard a few other stories. Cult doesn't seem to have this problem, maybe the races are stainless.

harblhat
Posts: 187
Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2011 12:18 am

by harblhat

Thanks both. CULT bearings seem to be hybrids, technically speaking, with ceramic balls and steel races. I think the bearing rust issue isn't unique to Campy - any bearing not made from stainless steel would rust if the seals fail. Or are Campy's seals weaker in this regard?

Roadrocket
Posts: 355
Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2018 8:43 am
Location: Slovakia

by Roadrocket

Yes, I can confirm that both races are 100% steel, I just checked them. So if there would be any rust problem in UT cranks bearings, CULT would be affected as well. I am not a Hambini fan, but he is certainly right about ceramic bearings. No advantage over decent quality steel bearings, and after short time they can create more friction than steel ones.

Campagnolo recommends to use thin oil for CULT bearings, anyway I degreased and filled them with Ceramicspeed TT grease. Maybe I lost like 0.005 watts, but I can live with that.

harblhat
Posts: 187
Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2011 12:18 am

by harblhat

It could be that the CULT races are stainless while the regular/USB races are non-stainless. I don't know Campy well enough but I'm sure their bearings are manufactured elsewhere and the seals are fairly typical. I did read that the Record cups have an additional seal that the SR cups don't have, in which case that would definitely make a difference.

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Attermann
Posts: 916
Joined: Sun Jan 05, 2014 11:04 pm
Location: Denmark

by Attermann

Cult are hardened stainless races, they last so much longer than the steel ones, so they are cheaper in the long run, and they run so much easier.

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