Campagnolo 12-Speed

[welchy]

What do you mean by cable tension? Can't you just unscrew the screw holding the derailleur cable, move the cable by 3mm and re-tighten the screw?

What I mean is even with the limiter screw adjusted to their full limit the rear mech cannot reach the top 32T or go beyond it.

So to get there I have to go max adjustment on the mech limiter screws and then fit the cable and tighten/extend the barrel adjuster to pull that extra 1-2mm. Does that make sense, apologies if I'm explaining poorly..

[joeyb1000]

Welchy, here are my comments:
The screw H looks like it’s in a lot. I suggest you unscrew it so that you match photo #15 in Campagnolo’s Technical Manual.
Have you checked the alignment of the derailleur hanger?
Screw G is in too far. Unscrew it until it doesn’t show. Then try the largest cog. Then screw it in until it touches. Then unscrew it 1/4 turn.

[welchy]

Welchy, here are my comments:
The screw H looks like it’s in a lot. I suggest you unscrew it so that you match photo #15 in Campagnolo’s Technical Manual.
Have you checked the alignment of the derailleur hanger?
Screw G is in too far. Unscrew it until it doesn’t show. Then try the largest cog. Then screw it in until it touches. Then unscrew it 1/4 turn.

Thanks Joey, now we are here (still needing cable tension to get 32T and not quite reaching) must be a bent hanger at this rate..

[Calnago]

Piggybacking off of Joey's labeled picture, yes, the lowerlimit screw (G) was the one I was referring to, so looks like you backed that off now. And still no go? Well then, I don't know what to tell ya, except at this point the first thing I'd do would be ripping off those Nokon cables and replacing with Campy housing. With every link in those things, there's some compression that's happening when you pull. And I have no idea what kind of cabling scenario is happening up by the levers, but same thing. We've been assuming your hanger is straight up to this point, and it's been mentioned several times. I wouldn't waste any more time on it until I've recabled it properly myself. Anyway, I really shouldn't have eaten that burger for lunch yesterday... fish n chips would have been so much better. Good luck.

[DaveS]

Both of my Chorus 12 RDs came with the big sprocket limit screw backed out all the way. The small sprocket screw only needed a bit of change to line up the chain with first cog. I could shift through all the sprockets immediately and not overshoot the big ring, without touching the big sprocket limit screw.

Be sure that you really have the thumb button all the way down, when the cable is first attached to the RD. If it's not, you won't even get 11 shifts. Of course, if the cable tension is too low, you could waste a shift, so the first click does nothing.

Campy 12 groups work best with the new Campy maximum smoothness cables and housing.

[ultimobici]

You need to use the Campy derailleur cables and stops (if you need them) that come with the shfters. But, you can use Jagwire Sport housings.
There is nothing special about the brake cables or housings.

Thanks, but what worries me is the small difference in thickness of gear housing 4,1mm of Campagnolo housing vs. 4,0 Jagwire housing. And also that Campagnolo cables are 1,2mm thick and stanadard gear housing is build for 1,1mm cables. Doesn't this add friction?

You can use the standard Campag outer. There is no difference in the outers (apart from the logo) between 12 and 11s - the difference is all in the inner cable and the ferrules, which are available loose. The 25m bulk rolls of Campag outer don't carry the logos anyway.

@ graeme thanks, but I don't need 25m roll, so I have to find someone (EU) who can sell me 5 to 10m for my current and future builds, becuse my local Campagnolo representative confirmed that Campagnolo doesn't make/sell in rolls.... then I'll find my inner peace

PM me. I work for a Campag Service Centre. We have it on a roll so can sell you whatever you need.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[graeme_f_k]

Thanks, but what worries me is the small difference in thickness of gear housing 4,1mm of Campagnolo housing vs. 4,0 Jagwire housing. And also that Campagnolo cables are 1,2mm thick and stanadard gear housing is build for 1,1mm cables. Doesn't this add friction?

You can use the standard Campag outer. There is no difference in the outers (apart from the logo) between 12 and 11s - the difference is all in the inner cable and the ferrules, which are available loose. The 25m bulk rolls of Campag outer don't carry the logos anyway.

@ graeme thanks, but I don't need 25m roll, so I have to find someone (EU) who can sell me 5 to 10m for my current and future builds, becuse my local Campagnolo representative confirmed that Campagnolo doesn't make/sell in rolls.... then I'll find my inner peace

PM me. I work for a Campag Service Centre. We have it on a roll so can sell you whatever you need.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, should have made it plainer - ditto.
Any Campag ProShop really *should* have the outer cable on a roll, although I don't know how many actually *do* ...
I know Ultimobici does, I have seen it

[graeme_f_k]

What do you mean by cable tension? Can't you just unscrew the screw holding the derailleur cable, move the cable by 3mm and re-tighten the screw?

What I mean is even with the limiter screw adjusted to their full limit the rear mech cannot reach the top 32T or go beyond it.

So to get there I have to go max adjustment on the mech limiter screws and then fit the cable and tighten/extend the barrel adjuster to pull that extra 1-2mm. Does that make sense, apologies if I'm explaining poorly..

Can you push the RD over to engage the 32 with your thumb (i.e. without using the lever to move the mech) as if doing a low limit screw setting check?
If you can, then there is something awry in your lever / cable set up.

It's always best to do this check manually, anyway, as a belt-and-braces thing, even though in theory the lever will be on it's last available index point when you are on the 32.
You don't want to put the RD into the spokes under any circumstances, after all!

[joeyb1000]

Welchy, here are the same photos from my bike with a 32.
Are you sure you have the Maximum Smoothness cables that came with the levers? Your cables look different.

[Calnago]

Do what Graham suggested. Just check that it can physically move that far by moving it by hand as if your shifting. And do make sure the limit screw is backed out when you do this. Your hand becomes the cable. You could disconnect the cable completely for this test if you want but you don’t have to. Just turn the pedals in the stand while pushing the derailleur with your thumb over the 32 cog. It’s a test just to see that it’s capable of that movement in the first place.
And Joey, ... he’s got some of those Nokon links, at least in the last section of cable housing, and I’ve given up on this till the cabling is checked. But as Graham suggested, moving the derailleur manually through all the sprockets will rule out the derailleur itself.

[robertbb]

@graeme - sorry to go OT... do you know if there are new Campy aluminium wheels coming out (updated Shamals and Zondas)? I've noticed a number of stores a bit low on stock (or out of stock) and wondered if there's something in the works...

[joeyb1000]

And Joey, ... he’s got some of those Nokon links, at least in the last section of cable housing, and I’ve given up on this till the cabling is checked. But as Graham suggested, moving the derailleur manually through all the sprockets will rule out the derailleur itself.

I meant the cables, not the housing. His cables don't look the same as mine.

[Calnago]

Ah, gotcha... still, I’ve tested both cables just for grins, but I know my cable runs are about as smooth as they get, so no discernible difference in my case. I suppose they may help a bit if you’ve got some really tight bends and several of them.
Welchy, my last thought on this is that if, after doing the physical pushing the derailleur with your thumb to move the chain over the 32 sprocket and finding out you can do this (with the limit screw backed out), then I’d be ripping off all that cabling and replacing with Campagnolo housing. Start from scratch. I’d still like to know what you’ve got going up front at the levers and along or through the bars, and perhaps around the cable guide at the BB area.
Good ol’ fashioned English Breakfast sounds good about now.

[ico]

You can use the standard Campag outer. There is no difference in the outers (apart from the logo) between 12 and 11s - the difference is all in the inner cable and the ferrules, which are available loose. The 25m bulk rolls of Campag outer don't carry the logos anyway.

@ graeme thanks, but I don't need 25m roll, so I have to find someone (EU) who can sell me 5 to 10m for my current and future builds, becuse my local Campagnolo representative confirmed that Campagnolo doesn't make/sell in rolls.... then I'll find my inner peace

PM me. I work for a Campag Service Centre. We have it on a roll so can sell you whatever you need.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, should have made it plainer - ditto.
Any Campag ProShop really *should* have the outer cable on a roll, although I don't know how many actually *do* ...
I know Ultimobici does, I have seen it

PM sent.

[robertbb]

@greme_f_k: Where can I buy the non-logo'd Campy 25m outer roll? Definitely keen...