Back by popular demand, the general all-things Road forum!
Moderator: robbosmans
-
arkasha1965
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2020 8:56 am
by arkasha1965 on Fri Apr 23, 2021 8:48 am
themidge wrote:Has anyone run Campag 12 speed, specifically Chorus, with 11 speed rings on a Power2max Type S spider? I already have the power meter (on rotor 3D+ cranks, the chainrings would be praxis) and I'm slightly concerned the front shifting will be awful. Obviously I'm not expecting perfection since I wouldn't be using actual Campag cranks/rings, but if anyone can tell me if it works adequately that would be great.
Did you try this setup anyway? Do it works?
Inviato dal mio ONEPLUS A6003 utilizzando Tapatalk
-
Moltobene
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2020 10:40 am
by Moltobene on Fri Apr 23, 2021 11:10 am
Shmitt wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 2021 8:02 pm
I am thinking of replacing the bearings in the Campagnolo 12s ultra torque crank. The drive side crank does not have a hole, what type of tool is the best to use to replace the bearing?
Replaced those bearings on my Chorus cranks with C-bear bearings because I wanted the bottom bracket cups and the bearings obviously come with it, so why not just replace them even if the bearings are new, everybody likes ceramic bearings on their cranks, right
.
I used the Unior Bearing Puller Tool because I needed that for my Power Torque cranks as well. I put the new bearings on the heater and the cranks in the freezer for about 20mins and then I could just push the bearings into the right place by hand with the installation tool from the Bearing Puller Toolkit, no need for a hammer or excessive force.
-
Shmitt
- Posts: 114
- Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:52 pm
by Shmitt on Fri Apr 23, 2021 1:44 pm
Moltobene wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 11:10 am
Shmitt wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 2021 8:02 pm
I am thinking of replacing the bearings in the Campagnolo 12s ultra torque crank. The drive side crank does not have a hole, what type of tool is the best to use to replace the bearing?
Replaced those bearings on my Chorus cranks with C-bear bearings because I wanted the bottom bracket cups and the bearings obviously come with it, so why not just replace them even if the bearings are new, everybody likes ceramic bearings on their cranks, right
.
I used the Unior Bearing Puller Tool because I needed that for my Power Torque cranks as well. I put the new bearings on the heater and the cranks in the freezer for about 20mins and then I could just push the bearings into the right place by hand with the installation tool from the Bearing Puller Toolkit, no need for a hammer or excessive force.
that's what I mean. because I have seen the presses, the use of a hammer, and you are afraid of damaging the crank.
-
joeyb1000
- Posts: 493
- Joined: Thu Mar 03, 2016 8:37 pm
by joeyb1000 on Fri Apr 23, 2021 2:52 pm
Shmitt wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 2021 8:02 pm
I am thinking of replacing the bearings in the Campagnolo 12s ultra torque crank. The drive side crank does not have a hole, what type of tool is the best to use to replace the bearing?
Park
-
Moltobene
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2020 10:40 am
by Moltobene on Fri Apr 23, 2021 5:43 pm
joeyb1000 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 2:52 pm
Shmitt wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 2021 8:02 pm
I am thinking of replacing the bearings in the Campagnolo 12s ultra torque crank. The drive side crank does not have a hole, what type of tool is the best to use to replace the bearing?
Park
To be honest, i got the Unior one because it was the cheapest for my purposes and limited usage. Also, I read some negative reviews about the plastic part in the Park Tool CBP-8 for the removal of the Power Torque cranks. However, I dont really think it matters for the installation of the bearings on Ultra Torque cranks. I'd guess that your fine either way as long as the installation tool connects to the inner race of the bearing. Heating the bearing and cooling the spindle is recommended by many of the major bearing manufacturers and you shouldn't need a hammer then, so I guess either installation tool for that purpose is ok and should work well.
-
AJS914
- Posts: 5420
- Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:52 pm
by AJS914 on Fri Apr 23, 2021 6:08 pm
I bought a generic puller and I had to grind down the tips to make them slim enough to fit in/near the crankset. I'd be inclined to get the Park or Uninor.
-
usr
- Posts: 940
- Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2021 5:58 pm
by usr on Fri Apr 23, 2021 7:52 pm
Moltobene wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 5:43 pm
Also, I read some negative reviews about the plastic part in the Park Tool CBP-8 for the removal of the Power Torque cranks.
It's very easy to break the plastic part if you forget to take out the washer that sits between the big Powertorque nut thing and the crank/spindle teeth. Because if you do forget to take out out, the tool effectively pushes against the same part it pulls on. Guess how I know this
Fortunately the plastic part breaks before the crank does (at a tool torque considerable higher than what's required for pulling the crank, but still very much in the doable range). And it's available as a spare, which somehow I also know
-
Mascalzone
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Wed Jun 11, 2014 12:27 pm
by Mascalzone on Sat Apr 24, 2021 7:10 am
usr wrote:Moltobene wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 5:43 pm
Also, I read some negative reviews about the plastic part in the Park Tool CBP-8 for the removal of the Power Torque cranks.
It's very easy to break the plastic part if you forget to take out the washer that sits between the big Powertorque nut thing and the crank/spindle teeth. Because if you do forget to take out out, the tool effectively pushes against the same part it pulls on. Guess how I know this
Fortunately the plastic part breaks before the crank does (at a tool torque considerable higher than what's required for pulling the crank, but still very much in the doable range). And it's available as a spare, which somehow I also know
I've been recently looking for the best tool for my Power torque cranks after a LBS sheared and completely ruined my non-drive side crank (they assured me they had the right puller...) I came across a post by the resident Campagnolo expert, Graeme on a different forum, he mentions that leaving the washer in is a common mistake and that Park and cheaper bearing tools are the reason why Power torque gets such a bad wrap. He recommends ONLY the Facom or Cyclus tool (and a other one, but the name escapes me now).
Sent from my SM-A705YN using Tapatalk
-
Mascalzone
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Wed Jun 11, 2014 12:27 pm
by Mascalzone on Sat Apr 24, 2021 8:10 am
MrCurrieinahurry wrote:That picture makes me feel queasy to say the least!
It's an ongoing 6 month saga, they also chipped the carbon on the top tube behind the steerer whip replacing the bearings (about the size of my thumbnail). They're trying to source a replacement carbon Athena chainset to replace the one the damaged. On the plus side, over the last 6 months I've been slowly buying up 12 Record components, I've got everything except a cassette, it'll be going on this bike.
Sent from my SM-A705YN using Tapatalk
-
rollinslow
- Posts: 866
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2018 2:25 am
- Location: New York
by rollinslow on Sat Apr 24, 2021 4:50 pm
Mascalzone wrote: ↑Sat Apr 24, 2021 8:10 am
MrCurrieinahurry wrote:That picture makes me feel queasy to say the least!
It's an ongoing 6 month saga, they also chipped the carbon on the top tube behind the steerer whip replacing the bearings (about the size of my thumbnail). They're trying to source a replacement carbon Athena chainset to replace the one the damaged. On the plus side, over the last 6 months I've been slowly buying up 12 Record components, I've got everything except a cassette, it'll be going on this bike.
Sent from my SM-A705YN using Tapatalk
Sorry, that is awful. Lesson here is why would you ever let an LBS work on your nice bikes? No way in hell would I bring anything of that quality to a shop. I probably wouldn't trust 99% of shops to pump my tires without damaging something. You either do it youself or switch to Shimano 105 lol.
Moots Vamoots RSL (2019)-Super Record 12
Cervelo S1 (2010)-Super Record 12
Kestrel RT700 (2008)-Dura Ace 9000
Mosaic GT-1 (2020)-SRAM Red
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=174523
-
mag
- Posts: 616
- Joined: Thu Mar 16, 2017 12:23 pm
by mag on Sun Apr 25, 2021 12:48 am
AJS914 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 6:08 pm
I bought a generic puller and I had to grind down the tips to make them slim enough to fit in/near the crankset. I'd be inclined to get the Park or Uninor.
That may be the case of some (or perhaps many), but I've got that Kukko 43-2 and it works as it is. No problems at all.
The only potential issue might be with the Power2Max (and perhaps SRM?) power meter spider where the space around the bearing is limited and the tips may be too large to get behind the bearing. That's where I can imagine the need to grind them down. But there's no issue with the standard UT crankset.
Last edited by
mag on Sun Apr 25, 2021 12:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
-
mag
- Posts: 616
- Joined: Thu Mar 16, 2017 12:23 pm