Campagnolo 12-Speed

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gorkypl
Posts: 535
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Location: Poland

by gorkypl

Moltobene wrote:
Tue Jun 21, 2022 12:18 pm
This is what it feels like, yea. Sometimes, the chain would drop completely to the inside, yesterday – after tuning the FD again and changing the chain – it did only drop to the small ring. I did try to get the H-Screw as close as possible, but I feel like "no upward trajectory of the chain" is kind of vague and hard to judge.
I also thought that a shorter chain would jump less, which is why I considered that.
Yes, I also feel the manual is a bit vague. I set the chain on small-small and adjust the RD so the upper pulley is as close as possible to the smallest cassette sprocket without producing noise or making a physical contact. It happens to coincide with approximately parallell trajectory of the chain when on small-small.
Afterwards, very precise adjustments of the cable tension can help in smoothing the RD shifting - it may or may not be enough to resolve your issues.
Moltobene wrote:
Tue Jun 21, 2022 12:18 pm
I also thought that a shorter chain would jump less, which is why I considered that.
Well, the jumps happen when the chain is tensioned (big ring and big sprockets) so I would not bet my money on this.

Fuji Cross 1.5 - Shimano 105 5800 | Cinelli Superstar Disc - Record 12s | Custom steel Karamba - Ekar 13s

Butcher
Shop Owner
Posts: 1931
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by Butcher

gorkypl wrote:
Tue Jun 21, 2022 11:55 am
The fact that bikes are being sold with frames not designed according to specs does not mean they will work properly.
But it also does not mean it will work properly either.

There is a reason why they have specs. Since you or I do not know that reason, we could only be guessing. I certainly would be hating life if I had to have a frame with short stays and have no real help when there is a shifting problem. I do know that when all the basic adjustments and tricks don't work, the factory starts to blame it on everything else. Including things that are not in spec.

The good thing about adjustments is that they can always be undone. Dropping chains sounds like it's an adjustment issue.

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gorkypl
Posts: 535
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2018 9:31 am
Location: Poland

by gorkypl

Butcher wrote:
Tue Jun 21, 2022 3:16 pm
The good thing about adjustments is that they can always be undone. Dropping chains sounds like it's an adjustment issue.
True. However OP states that FD and RD are meticulously set up according to Campagnolo manuals using proper adjustment tools.
In such case, given the scenario (chain drops inwards when cross-chaining on out-of-specs short chainstays), the probability of short chainstays being an important factor is quite high.

Fuji Cross 1.5 - Shimano 105 5800 | Cinelli Superstar Disc - Record 12s | Custom steel Karamba - Ekar 13s

Moltobene
Posts: 76
Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2020 10:40 am

by Moltobene

gorkypl wrote:
Tue Jun 21, 2022 3:49 pm
Butcher wrote:
Tue Jun 21, 2022 3:16 pm
The good thing about adjustments is that they can always be undone. Dropping chains sounds like it's an adjustment issue.
True. However OP states that FD and RD are meticulously set up according to Campagnolo manuals using proper adjustment tools.
In such case, given the scenario (chain drops inwards when cross-chaining on out-of-specs short chainstays), the probability of short chainstays being an important factor is quite high.
Hoping it's an adjustment issue, as I've only recently developed the problem. Only became a problem when I exchanged the old derailleur hanger for a new one and rear shifting is now well. That now leads me to believe that maybe it's rather related to the H screw (or something else not on my mind), but I wanted to ask here as the exchange is always valuable and people are knowledgeable.

Butcher
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by Butcher

Assuming the chain stays are that short and Campagnolo does not support those short lengths. There is no adjusting them to factory specs.

As a Shop Foreman for many years, I heard the statement all too often that the adjustments were perfect. My standard answer was if it was set right, it would work right. 95% of the time, the adjustments were not perfect. Just saying.

It is amazing that most of this stuff works right most of the time. With several different companies making several different components, there has got to a a senario where it does not work.

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Dov
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by Dov

I pressed the downshift on my right record paddle last week and felt a little scracthy thing on my thumb. Had a look and a tiny little spring popped out the top of a perfectly circular hole in the top of the shift paddle. Now the paddle doesn't retunr do to shift up you have to lift the doenshift with your thumb and throw the lever with your fingers It's a nuisance.

Has anyone else experienced this?
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smokva
Posts: 278
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by smokva

Hello everyone...
I tried to find answer to my question in this long thread, so I appologize if it's already answered and I couldn't find it.

Anyway, I'm thinking to partly upgrade my old 1st gen 11 speed mechanical rim brake Campagnolo to 12 speed. I would change Ergo, FD, RD, cassette and chain. I would keep brakes and crankset.
I already found out that 12 speed Campa cranks and 11 speed HO Campa cranks are identical in terms of chainring spacing of 8 mm and chainline of 44,5 mm. I also have found out that normal non-HO Campa 11 speed Cranks have 7,6 mm distance between chainrings and chainline of 43,5.
However, I took off my 5-arm Record 53-39 cranks and currently run Dura-Ace 9100 Stages LR powermeter on 1st gen Campagnolo 11 speed setup.

I saw a lot of reports that new 12 speed will work nicely with old 11 speed Campa cranks (HO, 5 arm non-HO and 4 arm) but I havent seen any first hand report how it works with Shimano 11 speed cranks like my DA9100 PM.

Since I really wan't to continue using this PM (atlest until cranks don't fail which can happen any day with Shimano) I would appretiate if someone has any idea how 9100 cranks will work with new Campagnolo 12 speed parts. I couldn't find info about chianring spacing or chainline for Shimano.

bikeboy1tr
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Location: Southern Ontario Canada

by bikeboy1tr

Anyone noticed that the Campy site is not showing tubular wheelsets any longer but still showing rim and disc brake for all clincher/tubeless.
The kicker is Shimano is still showing tubular wheelsets for the DAs atm and also showing rim/disc brake setup.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=154188
2018 Colnago V2R Rim Brake
2019 Colnago V2R Disc Brake
2014 Norco Threshold Disc Brake
2006 Ridley Crosswind Rim Brake

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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

bikeboy1tr wrote:Anyone noticed that the Campy site is not showing tubular wheelsets any longer but still showing rim and disc brake for all clincher/tubeless.
The kicker is Shimano is still showing tubular wheelsets for the DAs atm and also showing rim/disc brake setup.
Probably because Campag have seen that tubular wheels are almost dead. We still had a pair Cosmics from 2012 thy resolutely refused to sell until we reduced them to the point where they were 20% below cost. When we were sponsored by Shimano, and later Campag, we had a good supply of new tubular wheels to clear at the end of the season. They had to be knocked out at a heavily discounted rate to shift them. Tubs have always been niche, now they’re extinct.


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Nickldn
Posts: 1894
Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:35 am

by Nickldn

Has anyone had a gradual loss of braking force followed by mineral oil on the back of the disk brake pads?

I noticed last week my front brake wasn't working well and losing power. Pads were actually fine, so I re-bled the brake today and all is well.

I think the front brake has been gradually losing power for a while, but I didn't really notice until it got bad in traffic and I narrowly avoided going into the back of a car one day.

So not sure if there is a problem with the caliper. I hope not. Any suggestions what can be done to stop this happening again?

This is on Campy 12s calipers with Chorus levers.
Giant Propel Advanced SL Red Etap 11s Easton EC90 wheels CeramicSpeed BB Zipp SL70 bars 6.5kg

Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Zipp SL70 bars 7.5kg

SL8 build with Craft CS5060 Wheels in progress

bikeboy1tr
Posts: 1396
Joined: Thu Mar 21, 2013 3:19 am
Location: Southern Ontario Canada

by bikeboy1tr

ultimobici wrote:
Fri Aug 12, 2022 6:43 pm
bikeboy1tr wrote:Anyone noticed that the Campy site is not showing tubular wheelsets any longer but still showing rim and disc brake for all clincher/tubeless.
The kicker is Shimano is still showing tubular wheelsets for the DAs atm and also showing rim/disc brake setup.
Probably because Campag have seen that tubular wheels are almost dead. We still had a pair Cosmics from 2012 thy resolutely refused to sell until we reduced them to the point where they were 20% below cost. When we were sponsored by Shimano, and later Campag, we had a good supply of new tubular wheels to clear at the end of the season. They had to be knocked out at a heavily discounted rate to shift them. Tubs have always been niche, now they’re extinct.

Haha I guess I am a dinosaur that will get some good discounts on disc tubular wheelsets that need to be cleared off the shelves. But it looks like DA wheels from here on in which is ok as I have a set from 19 that I like quite a bit. I am hoping tires will be around for a couple more years.


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viewtopic.php?f=10&t=154188
2018 Colnago V2R Rim Brake
2019 Colnago V2R Disc Brake
2014 Norco Threshold Disc Brake
2006 Ridley Crosswind Rim Brake

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ultimobici
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by ultimobici

bikeboy1tr wrote:Haha I guess I am a dinosaur that will get some good discounts on disc tubular wheelsets that need to be cleared off the shelves. But it looks like DA wheels from here on in which is ok as I have a set from 19 that I like quite a bit. I am hoping tires will be around for a couple more years.
Tyres will be around for a lot longer as they’re a consumable.


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ReactiveE
Posts: 112
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2019 3:56 pm

by ReactiveE

Hey all, I´m going to build my rim brake Aeroad II.gen frameset on Superrecord 12s mechanical. Groupset is used in good condition, but I bought brand new Maximum Smoothness cable set for it.

Any usefull advices for the build, say derailleur settings, chain length, housing length, etc.?
I built some road frames before, but they were all on Shimano groups, so no experiences with Campagnolo.

Thanks a lot

ghisallo2003
Posts: 742
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 7:10 pm

by ghisallo2003

If you have not set up before, I can suggest that the front mech tension adjuster is a must: it is quite a narrow tolerance.

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ReactiveE
Posts: 112
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2019 3:56 pm

by ReactiveE

Forgot to mention, I bought that little front cable adjuster too.

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