crank arm length?
Moderator: robbosmans
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My inseam is 74~75cm.
I have used 170mm for two years, and i haven't been feeling nervous.
by the way, I'm going to change it to 165mm or 167.5mm.
is it good for me or i have to keep 170mm?
I have used 170mm for two years, and i haven't been feeling nervous.
by the way, I'm going to change it to 165mm or 167.5mm.
is it good for me or i have to keep 170mm?
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Any of the three is fine.
Choose the one that feels better.
I have identical twins with both 73 mm inseam. One uses a 165 mm, the other a 170 mm.
If you put your "numbers" in a crank lenght chart, you might end up with a suggested lenght of 155-160 mm .
Louis
Choose the one that feels better.
I have identical twins with both 73 mm inseam. One uses a 165 mm, the other a 170 mm.
If you put your "numbers" in a crank lenght chart, you might end up with a suggested lenght of 155-160 mm .
Louis
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- Posts: 36
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2017 3:49 pm
Thanks, it means that if i follow the crank length chart, shorter is better. but it doesn't matter^^
Too short can feel odd, but you usually adjust to the oddness. If not you've gone too short.
Too long can make a mess of knee joints which takes a long time to recover from. If it gets really bad, you may end up permanently broken.
Power output will be unaffected.
Too long can make a mess of knee joints which takes a long time to recover from. If it gets really bad, you may end up permanently broken.
Power output will be unaffected.
I've got slightly longer legs and prefer 150-155mm. I didn't realize how much more natural proportional cranks felt until I had joint problems that caused me to seek shorter cranks for pain relief. The adaptation period was very short for me coming from "normal" length cranks and now anything over 160 feels awkward.
I first found the first pain related issue on my turbo bike (long periods sat in one position) which had 172.5.
Switched to 165.
Adaption time. About 10 seconds.
Didn't realise how many other biomechanical issues longer cranks had been causing. Even if they weren't actually painful.
Downsides, ~10 bikes which now need shorter cranks. :/
Anyone got any 165/167.5 shimano compatible cranks for sale?
I have 7 bikes all of which are now on short cranks. I have two pairs of 165 left to see if they would be adequate but I needed shorter. They are BB30 and 386 though if you didn't need a 24mm spindle.mattr wrote: ↑Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:45 amI first found the first pain related issue on my turbo bike (long periods sat in one position) which had 172.5.
Switched to 165.
Adaption time. About 10 seconds.
Didn't realise how many other biomechanical issues longer cranks had been causing. Even if they weren't actually painful.
Downsides, ~10 bikes which now need shorter cranks. :/
Anyone got any 165/167.5 shimano compatible cranks for sale?
I have 7 bikes all of which are now on short cranks. I have two pairs of 165 left to see if they would be adequate but I needed shorter. They are BB30 and 386 though if you didn't need a 24mm spindle.
[/quote]
I'm looking for a Cannondale Hollowgram SiSl2 with 165mm crank arms, do you have a set?
Thanks
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I'm looking for a Cannondale Hollowgram SiSl2 with 165mm crank arms, do you have a set?
Thanks
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Fitted husband and wife pro triathletes today. He is 192cm and she is around 160cm.
Calculated that shifting her to 145mm cranks still meant they were proportionally slightly longer than his 170s. Made a massive difference to her knee tracking and hip tension.
Anyone with inseam less than 75cm is not well served by the common crank sizes.
Calculated that shifting her to 145mm cranks still meant they were proportionally slightly longer than his 170s. Made a massive difference to her knee tracking and hip tension.
Anyone with inseam less than 75cm is not well served by the common crank sizes.
Inseam 79cm. Using 165mm. I don't really consider this short. It's just about right size actually.
One thing to note is you'll have reduced torque leverage (by ~3%). But not reduced power.
Power=Torque x rotation speed.
torque is down but you get back with smaller circle which make same linear foot speed translate to higher cadence automatically. This give you back all the power (providing you are not in torque limit situation like climb up mountain and run out of gear). And you'll still gain some more with improved biomechanical efficiency of your leg moving in smaller more comfortable range.
One thing to note is you'll have reduced torque leverage (by ~3%). But not reduced power.
Power=Torque x rotation speed.
torque is down but you get back with smaller circle which make same linear foot speed translate to higher cadence automatically. This give you back all the power (providing you are not in torque limit situation like climb up mountain and run out of gear). And you'll still gain some more with improved biomechanical efficiency of your leg moving in smaller more comfortable range.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com