One consideration is that with a shorter crank arm and less leverage you might want an easier gear on the cassette in the rear. But maybe you live in a flat area and it wouldn't matter?
BTW, YOU DON"T HAVE TO YELL.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.
If you go shorter you need an easier gear, longer you need a bigger gear.
Hence the old TTer thing of thinking that longer cranks gave them more power because they were in bigger ratios (or if someone bought Zinn 200mm cranks) when really the complete gearing (which is from pedal to where the tyre touches the road) stayed the same and all they did was close up their hip angles.
Rotor make a 155 but it is hard to find. Lightning do a 160. Cobb do 145, 155, 165.
If your saddle height is less than 65cm you will definitely need cranks shorter than 165 (to open the min knee and hip angles).
Several studies have examined the effect of crank length on power output.
(I would have to google them again)
conclusion. no effect (crank length between 140 and 200 if memory serves me well)
the advantage of shorter shorter cranks would be:
more comfort due to the more open hip angle
or keep the hip angle and get more aero.
I have also tried 155 cranks and they worked
Stronglight impact kid (square taper realy cheap)
I would like some 167,5 cranks to complement my campagnolo builds. but they are very rare it seems.
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therefore increasing crank length is not like adding a extra tooth on your rear cassette. I have a variety of crank lenths from 165mm to 177.5mm and my ability to turn all of them is the same. On my aero bike I need to change the zed3 cranks to 170mm as that would help me stay in the drops. my power output might even improve.
Zani, Gonzales and Hull evaluated that crank length will have and inverse correlation with your cadence. So in the size recommendations for a crank length that is depending on your inseam and/or femur length ( Rochefort and al. made a correlation between the femur length and crank arm length.
So in all, find the crank arm length around your inseam and depending on your cadence, you can go one size up or down. You don't need all the weird formulas you find here and there.
The only other point that could justify a crank arm length change is anything pathology related. (Hip or ankle problems for example).
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