Winter tyres - Tubeless

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
Attermann
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by Attermann

I have been considering running tubeless for my rain bike, some DT Swiss rims with an internal diameter of 20 mm, so I will be running 28 mm tyres, what tyres do I want? I want high puncture protection, I have been looking at Hutchinson sector, but I read that wet weather grip is poor, my other choice right now is Schwalbe g-one speed in 30 mm

What are your recommendations?

by Weenie


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TonyM
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by TonyM

I have also a rain/ winter bike as it rains a lot over here and I have tubeless ready wheels from DT but I still use the Conti 4 season/ Vittoria Pavé with latex tubes. Going tubeless is supposed to have a better puncture resistance with the sealant but I am not sure that not works properly in rain. And if I have to repair the tire I will most probably not be able to pump it up back with the mini pump I carry.
So in the winter I have the Conti 4 season for the extra layer of puncture resistance and in the summer with rain I use the Vittoria Pavés.
If I do have a puncture or 2 I have a spare tube and a repair kit in case I have two punctures etc....I feel "safer" like this compared to a tubeless setup.

So I am interested to know why do you want to run tubeless on your rain bike... :wink:

Geoff
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Location: Canada

by Geoff

I have some Hutchison tires in-service now as a foul-weather set. They are very durable and good in the wet.

Attermann
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Joined: Sun Jan 05, 2014 11:04 pm
Location: Denmark

by Attermann

Geoff wrote: ↑
Fri Feb 09, 2018 8:48 pm
I have some Hutchison tires in-service now as a foul-weather set. They are very durable and good in the wet.
Which ones?

Geoff
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by Geoff

Sorry, Intensive!

dim
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Location: Cambridge UK

by dim

You need IRC Formula Pro X-guard tubeless road tyres .... fast, and have very good puncture protection .... and they last very long:

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collection ... less-tyres


I use the IRC Formula Pro RBCC which are lighter, a bit faster but which have less puncture protection

you also need the tubeless tyre repair kit (tyre worms in case you get a large puncture that does not seal with the latex), decent latex such as the Orange or Stans Race, Tubeless tyre levers (I have the IRC levers, but have no problems mounting the tyres by hand on my HED Belgium Plus rims, but getting them off the rims is another story .... and you need a decent pump, and a valve core remover

don't try and use an inner tube with a tubeless tyre, as you will possibly get a pinch flat (rather carry a spare inner tube and a clincher incase you get a split on the tubeless tyre that you cannot repair) ... you also need a decent pump

Hutchinson Sector 28 are also very good but not as fast from what I have read (I have not used the Sector 28's yet, but may try them in time)

Schwalbe get reviews where guys say that they cut up very easily and don't last long
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Attermann
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by Attermann

I have read about those irc, maybe that’s the Tyre I have been looking for!

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TonyM
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by TonyM

Attermann wrote: ↑
Fri Feb 09, 2018 9:34 pm
I have read about those irc, maybe that’s the Tyre I have been looking for!
Why would like to go tubeless instead of regular on your rain bike?

Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

TonyM wrote:
Attermann wrote: ↑
Fri Feb 09, 2018 9:34 pm
I have read about those irc, maybe that’s the Tyre I have been looking for!
Why would like to go tubeless instead of regular on your rain bike?
Tubeless is perfect for the winter bike, particularly in the PNW. TonyM, if you look to the southwest across the Georgia Strait you should be able to see me waiving. :welcome: Here on the Island we get less then half the rain you do on the mainland, but the roads are still wet and grimy during the winter due to condensation. As we all know, in these conditions every little piece of glass, wire, are sharp little flint is that much more likely to be standing up or will at least stick to you tire. Punctures, while mostly small are 3 to 5 times more likely than in dry conditions here IME.

Tubeless is a dream and works great in wet conditions. Last week in the rain I had a major slice that sealed with the loss of less then 10 PSI. Using Orange Seal Endurance in Schwalbe Pro One which are soft and cut easily. They have many nicks and bits of rock and glass embedded in them but holding air no problem. On my good weather bikes I have traditional clincher and tube set ups for tire choice and weight savings.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

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TonyM
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by TonyM

Mr.Gib wrote: ↑
Sat Feb 10, 2018 12:40 am
Tubeless is perfect for the winter bike, particularly in the PNW. TonyM, if you look to the southwest across the Georgia Strait you should be able to see me waiving. :welcome: Here on the Island we get less then half the rain you do on the mainland, but the roads are still wet and grimy during the winter due to condensation. As we all know, in these conditions every little piece of glass, wire, are sharp little flint is that much more likely to be standing up or will at least stick to you tire. Punctures, while mostly small are 3 to 5 times more likely than in dry conditions here IME.

Tubeless is a dream and works great in wet conditions. Last week in the rain I had a major slice that sealed with the loss of less then 10 PSI. Using Orange Seal Endurance in Schwalbe Pro One which are soft and cut easily. They have many nicks and bits of rock and glass embedded in them but holding air no problem. On my good weather bikes I have traditional clincher and tube set ups for tire choice and weight savings.
Hi back :welcome:

Thanks for the feedback! I was not sure if the sealant would work also in the rain....

I switched to the Conti 4 seasons this winter because of all these little pieces of glass, metal etc.. on the roads in the winter. My Vittoria Pavés were not strong enough and I had to replace them sometimes quite often. The Conti 4 seasons are much better in terms of puncture resistance (widely used in the UK as I have been informed). I used them also with latex tubes but they are much harsher than the Pavés of course.

And since my new wheelset for the winter/ rain is tubeless ready (DT Swiss ERC 1100 Dicut 47 DB) I may give a try to the tubeless one day. My fear is just to get punctured twice on the roads far away from home and in the rain and cold.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

because they are better tyres well the IRC are anyway. I ride in all kinds of faul weather only on tubeless tyres. I do sometimes get puncture but not often and it when the the tyre is old they mostly happen and the sign it time for a change. I could change it before then but how would I see what can be fixed at the roadside if I dont make problems for myself? The last IRC X guard I used did 5800km before I had to retire it due to it leaking in 4 places after one wet ride to work. I could have patched it up but really it had done its time and fitted a new tyre.

All punctures that have not sealed and this includes sidewall punctures, 1 cm holes, big bits of flint burried in the tyre have been fixed at the side of the road with tyre worms mostly. The tyre then serves out the rest of its useful life. The Mavic yskion on the commutor picked up a shoulder prick that should have sealed but did not so flexible superglue fixed that. The mavic only had 250km on it as well. bad luck I suppose. If I cant get the tubeless tyre to hold some air at the side of the road then a tube wont help me as the tyre is f*****.

currently I am using IRC roadlites on the rain bike but the front rim is very worn so I cant use until it is rebuilt, IRC Formula Pro RBCC front and Mavic Yskion rear on the commutor, IRC formula Lights on the Look 795, IRC Formula Light and Formula RBCC on the sarto and some horrible Schwalbe one tubeless on the Sannino. The sannio is going to get the mavic yskions. I am starting to test other brands of tubeless tyres that why the mavics are in use. They are actually fairly decent. I use these bikes all year round.

If I were to use clinchers and I used to I would have to leave home with my back pockets stuffed full of tubes. I used to carry 4 and where does the wallet go? Now my tubeless repair kit fits into a small tube. Lighter and far more space in the pockets.

tomorrow I will be doing a tubeless repair video (properly shot this time) I will shove a screwdriver into the rear mavic sidewall on my comutor fix it and ride home. Thats how confident I am that a worm will hold.

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Miller
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by Miller

bm0p700f wrote: ↑
Sat Feb 10, 2018 12:54 am
some horrible Schwalbe one tubeless on the Sannino.
Those'll be the ones you're selling on your website? :D
I actually really like the original non-pro One. They're tough as old boots and roll well.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

I don't sell the ones anymore. The last bunch I had were sold as cheap as I could. The only thing I don't like about them is the lack of wet grip. In the dry they are fine sadly it is not dry often. Nearly lost it on a corner today with them and a the car near me seemed to loose it with me.

willmac
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by willmac

I tried tubeless for winter and gave up. Was using IRC x guard and had numerous flint punctures that didn't seal up. For better weather and the odd cut, i think it's a good solution but all i managed once winter actually set in was multiple punctures, sealant stuck in my bibs and riding home on half inflated tires. I'm back on tubes until April

by Weenie


bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

That's called really bad luck. Two winters now on tubeless and overall fewer punctures. Most have sealed themselves and odd few that have not have been fixed with worms. At no point have I had to stop and remove the wheel, the I like. Tubeless does not mean puncture free but if your puncturing X guard tyres your clinchers would have been ripped to shreds. Bad luck happens.

If you carry worms and use them on those semi sealing punctures then you might have better luck. Also if you were using Stan's sealant there is the reason for your bad experience. Flint by the way slices through anything even schwalbe marathons can't resist it.conti gator skin hardshells certainly can't for long.

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