Winter tyres - Tubeless

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2014 9:01 am

by VamP

I gotta row back a bit on the hassle aspect. Back then, I was struggling to seat some Pro Ones with a floor pump, and having given up in disgust, haven't revisited the whole tubeless scene untial yesterday. Armed with a new over drive pump and a bit of soapy water, they popped up as easy as anything.

I took them for a ride and they felt a bit wooden compared to my Corsa's on latex, and nothing like as floaty as FMB Roubaix tubs, but then I did ride them at 85psi in size 28mm for the first ride, and I think I can easily drop down a bit or even a lot. So I am not yet really convinced of the ride advantages, and they don't feel any faster (nor slower), but at least in terms of ease of use, it's pretty easy :-)

Now for some worms - what's best hive mind?

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by Lewn777

If you want to go faster than winter tires, but have problems with punctures and pick up punctures with regular tires like Continental GP4000S2. Lets say at least every 500kms,tubeless is worth a shot.
You hate fixing punctures.
You have extra time to set things up and to research products.
You have extra money, as the cost of the sealant, tape and tires gets pricey quickly.
You know that you'll probably not save any weight or might increase it.

So for winter I think I'd rather just run Panaracer Race D Evo 3 or Continental GP 4 seasons with tubes. Tubeless is good for racing, with Orange sealants you can lose as little as 10-20psi from a cut. Most sealants are pretty useless (Stans, Joes etc) are designed for mountain bikes and don't seem to seal things quickly or stay sealed at high pressures with some tires. Steer clear of Schwalbe Pro One, they are very delicate and useless for winter. Been much happier with Panaracer Evo 3 Race A tubeless, but not impressed with the cost. Going to give Maxxis Padrones a try next.

I don't understand what all the fuss is about using glue and worms. I've been using tubeless on mountain bikes for years, and only ever shove in a tube if there's any problem, which is usually caused because there is no sealant left being too dry or having escaped from multiple punctures. Hole too big, use a boot and a tube.

by Weenie

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Location: Cambridge UK

by dim

I do lots of miles, and next winter, on my commuter, I will either be using Hutchinson Sector 32 or IRC Formula Pro X-guard tubeless in 28's (unless a new tubeless tyre is released that is better than the 2)

On my 'fast bike', I will use IRC Formula Pro RBCC tubeless in 25's again
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by bm0p700f

With worms you should carry 1.5mm and 3.5mm thick. Flexible super glue too. The weight f the puncture repair is low do overall you save weight with tubeless. With tubes I used to carry two tubes min more for a long ride.

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