light housing for campagnolo

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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JoO
Posts: 59
Joined: Thu May 04, 2017 7:30 am

by JoO

Hello,

what light housing works for campagnolo?

I have tried Fasi but it doesn't work well.
Braking was just dangerous
https://r2-bike.com/FASI-Aussenhuelle-S ... -167-g-m_1
https://r2-bike.com/FASI-Aussenhuelle-B ... -215-g-m_1

Do alligator i-links (normal or mini) work with ergopowers?
If so , do you insert them directly in the ergopower?

Does anyone have experience with:
https://r2-bike.com/CAPGO-Shift-Cable-H ... e-Line-3-m

Is there still a place to buy the tune stuff in Europe?

shimmeD
Posts: 440
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2012 10:52 pm
Location: eNZed

by shimmeD

Less is more.

by Weenie


angrylegs
Posts: 128
Joined: Mon May 21, 2012 2:32 pm

by angrylegs

I've used iLinks with Campy for years. It's fantastic. No issues. Some frames you have to use this or that ferrule for the cable entry point, but you get a few different things in the iLink package. I had to improv a little for my Cervelo S2, but it works fine. No issue with Campy itself.

User avatar
tommasini
Posts: 1303
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 6:48 am
Location: Central USA
Contact:

by tommasini

I prefer vinyl covered exterior housing versus aluminum segmented housing.......I considered the Fasi cables but never heard anything good. So I went with the following - very happy!!

For brakes I used this from Aican (26g /meter) + 5mm OD washers in the levers due to the orientation of the compressionless aluminum core. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AICAN-Superlig ... 1438.l2649

For derailleurs I use Jagwire XEX- SL housing (17 g/meter) but with Campy inners (due to head size only).

robertbb
Posts: 514
Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2009 3:35 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia

by robertbb

angrylegs wrote:
Tue Feb 06, 2018 11:41 pm
I've used iLinks with Campy for years. It's fantastic. No issues. Some frames you have to use this or that ferrule for the cable entry point, but you get a few different things in the iLink package. I had to improv a little for my Cervelo S2, but it works fine. No issue with Campy itself.
For both shifting and braking? Could you elaborate on which products you choose?

(I assume you use actual Campy inner cables?)
It's ALL about the bike.

RobertBB's CyclePlanner Spreadsheet:
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/foru ... 8&t=152263

angrylegs
Posts: 128
Joined: Mon May 21, 2012 2:32 pm

by angrylegs

robertbb wrote:
Thu Feb 08, 2018 2:23 am
angrylegs wrote:
Tue Feb 06, 2018 11:41 pm
I've used iLinks with Campy for years. It's fantastic. No issues. Some frames you have to use this or that ferrule for the cable entry point, but you get a few different things in the iLink package. I had to improv a little for my Cervelo S2, but it works fine. No issue with Campy itself.
For both shifting and braking? Could you elaborate on which products you choose?

(I assume you use actual Campy inner cables?)
Both shifting and braking, yes. I've used Yokuzuna and I'm currently running Alligator cables. Some time back I used Campy. Nokon liners work well too.

JoO
Posts: 59
Joined: Thu May 04, 2017 7:30 am

by JoO

angrylegs wrote:
Thu Feb 08, 2018 4:28 pm
robertbb wrote:
Thu Feb 08, 2018 2:23 am
angrylegs wrote:
Tue Feb 06, 2018 11:41 pm
I've used iLinks with Campy for years. It's fantastic. No issues. Some frames you have to use this or that ferrule for the cable entry point, but you get a few different things in the iLink package. I had to improv a little for my Cervelo S2, but it works fine. No issue with Campy itself.
For both shifting and braking? Could you elaborate on which products you choose?

(I assume you use actual Campy inner cables?)
Both shifting and braking, yes. I've used Yokuzuna and I'm currently running Alligator cables. Some time back I used Campy. Nokon liners work well too.
Thanks!
Did you use the regular i-links for shifting or the mini i-links (they are quie expensive for trial and error).
Ferrules for the frame i understand.
what about the ergopowers: did you have to use some sort of ferrule there? if not how do you prevent the liner from moving?

angrylegs
Posts: 128
Joined: Mon May 21, 2012 2:32 pm

by angrylegs

JoO wrote:
Sat Feb 10, 2018 8:54 am
angrylegs wrote:
Thu Feb 08, 2018 4:28 pm
robertbb wrote:
Thu Feb 08, 2018 2:23 am
angrylegs wrote:
Tue Feb 06, 2018 11:41 pm
I've used iLinks with Campy for years. It's fantastic. No issues. Some frames you have to use this or that ferrule for the cable entry point, but you get a few different things in the iLink package. I had to improv a little for my Cervelo S2, but it works fine. No issue with Campy itself.
For both shifting and braking? Could you elaborate on which products you choose?

(I assume you use actual Campy inner cables?)
Both shifting and braking, yes. I've used Yokuzuna and I'm currently running Alligator cables. Some time back I used Campy. Nokon liners work well too.
Thanks!
Did you use the regular i-links for shifting or the mini i-links (they are quie expensive for trial and error).
Ferrules for the frame i understand.
what about the ergopowers: did you have to use some sort of ferrule there? if not how do you prevent the liner from moving?
Was using the original for a while and now have the mini links.

Yeah there's a little piece that goes in there for the ergopowers. Had no problems with that.

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jekyll man
Posts: 1390
Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:23 am
Location: Pack filler

by jekyll man

Depends on how old your shifters are if you want to use ilinks.
Later ones that use ultrashift (with no ferrules), you need to use mini-ilinks with no ferrules, and the campag version inners. I think I ended up making mine up out of 2 different sets. The mini links are a tight fit into the shifter, and butt up to a brass part in there, just like the standard cables.
Because theres no ferrule it does mean the liner hasn't got a "stop" to hold it in place, but I've not had any issues with it migrating in 12 months.
Official cafe stop tester

JoO
Posts: 59
Joined: Thu May 04, 2017 7:30 am

by JoO

jekyll man wrote:
Sat Feb 10, 2018 5:43 pm
Depends on how old your shifters are if you want to use ilinks.
Later ones that use ultrashift (with no ferrules), you need to use mini-ilinks with no ferrules, and the campag version inners. I think I ended up making mine up out of 2 different sets. The mini links are a tight fit into the shifter, and butt up to a brass part in there, just like the standard cables.
Because theres no ferrule it does mean the liner hasn't got a "stop" to hold it in place, but I've not had any issues with it migrating in 12 months.

I have 2014 chorus ergopowers
So no ferrule for brake (5 mm) or shift housing(4 mm) required (or possible)

Do you also use the mini i-links for braking or did you use the regular i-links for braking?

bm0p700f
in the industry
Posts: 4061
Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
Contact:

by bm0p700f

I have used the ashima Kevlar housing with powercirdz for a light reliable setup. The difficulty of getting the parts here has stopped me using it on my other bikes.

User avatar
jekyll man
Posts: 1390
Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:23 am
Location: Pack filler

by jekyll man

JoO wrote:
Sat Feb 10, 2018 8:13 pm
jekyll man wrote:
Sat Feb 10, 2018 5:43 pm
Depends on how old your shifters are if you want to use ilinks.
Later ones that use ultrashift (with no ferrules), you need to use mini-ilinks with no ferrules, and the campag version inners. I think I ended up making mine up out of 2 different sets. The mini links are a tight fit into the shifter, and butt up to a brass part in there, just like the standard cables.
Because theres no ferrule it does mean the liner hasn't got a "stop" to hold it in place, but I've not had any issues with it migrating in 12 months.

I have 2014 chorus ergopowers
So no ferrule for brake (5 mm) or shift housing(4 mm) required (or possible)

Do you also use the mini i-links for braking or did you use the regular i-links for braking?
I went through with dgasmd what I did, so I've just lifted the bones of the pm. Hope that helps:

I've actually gone back through my old ebay messages and found the mails I had with seller bellboyant regarding how I got them all to work. I've even unwound my bar tape to double check, so here's the skinny:
Brakes:
Standard Ilink OUTER is okay for the brakes, but, you NEED the campag inners (available separately). Head size is different- Shimano/ sram is too big.

I had to butt the ilinks into the shifter housing with no ferrule. It came out at a stupid angle from memory. This might cause the liner to slowly migrate as theres nothing to stop it. I haven't had a problem with it though.


For Gears:
You need mini ilinks. As campag don't use ferrules on the outer going into the shifter body, there is only an approx. 4mm dia hole. Standard ilinks and ferrules are bigger. Again, the mini's will fit, but without a ferrule, and you run the risk of the liner migrating over time.


Ive not had any problems,provided you take your time and assemble correctly. You don't really need the destructions or videos as its fairly self explainatory once you start.
Basically create your lengths of outer but add a bit extra as it will compress later on. Feed your liner through from the top, with the beginning stopping at the last link or just the top side of it. Cut it to somewhere the cable clamp is on the mech, and feed the inner through.
Clamp it up and then pull the brake or shifter to compress the links together. Then when you're happy, pull the inner cable back out far enough, so you can cut the liner, so for example on the rear mech, mine is just sticking out of the barrel adjuster hole by about 5mm. Any more and it will foul when you shift up the cassette.
For brakes, something similar.
Official cafe stop tester

JoO
Posts: 59
Joined: Thu May 04, 2017 7:30 am

by JoO

jekyll man wrote:
Sat Feb 10, 2018 11:39 pm
JoO wrote:
Sat Feb 10, 2018 8:13 pm
jekyll man wrote:
Sat Feb 10, 2018 5:43 pm
Depends on how old your shifters are if you want to use ilinks.
Later ones that use ultrashift (with no ferrules), you need to use mini-ilinks with no ferrules, and the campag version inners. I think I ended up making mine up out of 2 different sets. The mini links are a tight fit into the shifter, and butt up to a brass part in there, just like the standard cables.
Because theres no ferrule it does mean the liner hasn't got a "stop" to hold it in place, but I've not had any issues with it migrating in 12 months.

I have 2014 chorus ergopowers
So no ferrule for brake (5 mm) or shift housing(4 mm) required (or possible)

Do you also use the mini i-links for braking or did you use the regular i-links for braking?
I went through with dgasmd what I did, so I've just lifted the bones of the pm. Hope that helps:

I've actually gone back through my old ebay messages and found the mails I had with seller bellboyant regarding how I got them all to work. I've even unwound my bar tape to double check, so here's the skinny:
Brakes:
Standard Ilink OUTER is okay for the brakes, but, you NEED the campag inners (available separately). Head size is different- Shimano/ sram is too big.

I had to butt the ilinks into the shifter housing with no ferrule. It came out at a stupid angle from memory. This might cause the liner to slowly migrate as theres nothing to stop it. I haven't had a problem with it though.


For Gears:
You need mini ilinks. As campag don't use ferrules on the outer going into the shifter body, there is only an approx. 4mm dia hole. Standard ilinks and ferrules are bigger. Again, the mini's will fit, but without a ferrule, and you run the risk of the liner migrating over time.


Ive not had any problems,provided you take your time and assemble correctly. You don't really need the destructions or videos as its fairly self explainatory once you start.
Basically create your lengths of outer but add a bit extra as it will compress later on. Feed your liner through from the top, with the beginning stopping at the last link or just the top side of it. Cut it to somewhere the cable clamp is on the mech, and feed the inner through.
Clamp it up and then pull the brake or shifter to compress the links together. Then when you're happy, pull the inner cable back out far enough, so you can cut the liner, so for example on the rear mech, mine is just sticking out of the barrel adjuster hole by about 5mm. Any more and it will foul when you shift up the cassette.
For brakes, something similar.

Thanks for the detailed explanation.
I will give them a go.
Perhaps I can slide a small rubber bead onto the liner and trap it into the first segment to prevent the liner from moving.

by Weenie


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