https://youtu.be/rQbhMaveqcw
DA9150 with SRAM 11-32T Cassette
Moderator: robbosmans
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Ok... confirms what I said earlier... that you'd have to crank that B-screw all the way in, which pulls everything away from the cogs and is most noticeable when you're working in the small cog range (look at the gap between the upper pulley and the smaller cogs... its' huge). And if you're going 1X, you'd want to be able to use the Big/Big combo anytime, anywhere... not just on those rare "don't tell anyone" occasions when you know you should probably be in your small ring (which you won't have). I also think that the max cog for the new derailleurs (without the GS cage) is 30 teeth, not 32. I'm getting confused without looking it up now, so I may be wrong there. So, if you did go this route, I'd for sure try to get a GS version of the derailleur for better performance across the entire range of the cassette.
Anyway, up to you of course. You can't expect smallish cassette road type shifting performance on a cassette that large anyway.
Anyway, up to you of course. You can't expect smallish cassette road type shifting performance on a cassette that large anyway.
Last edited by Calnago on Mon Feb 05, 2018 12:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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I recommended the OP to get a GS RD but the GS is only available on the Ultegra RD. And the OP doesn't want a second tier component on his expensive bike.
Another option is to run the eTap WiFli which will support a 11-32 cassette I believe.
Another option is to run the eTap WiFli which will support a 11-32 cassette I believe.
Last edited by pdlpsher1 on Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ah yes... I missed that. Shame... cuz the GS option is the way to go. But what is really "second tier" in this case... something that is designed for and works with what you want to run... or something that is more expensive but performs worse in the same scenario?
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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how about add a ceramicspeed cage.. I know in the etap world Ive seen a number of people use it with a 32t. That way you can keep it top tier.
I just looked and it's advertised to work with 32t for the 9150
I just looked and it's advertised to work with 32t for the 9150
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He meant with the OSPW setup from Ceramic Speed
http://www.ceramicspeed.com/sport/produ ... %20Shimano
"A special OSPW System has been designed for the Shimano 9100 and 8000 series (it's NOT compatible with the R8000 GS), featuring a 13/19-tooth combination and accommodating cassettes of up to 32t."
http://www.ceramicspeed.com/sport/produ ... %20Shimano
"A special OSPW System has been designed for the Shimano 9100 and 8000 series (it's NOT compatible with the R8000 GS), featuring a 13/19-tooth combination and accommodating cassettes of up to 32t."
so basically you skipped the sentence above .. or what
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Tested out some gearing yesterday and have come to the conclusion that I don’t need a 32 for what the bike will be used for.
Buying the DA11-30 cassette with a selection of front rings (46, 48 & 50). Will go from there and IF I feel the need for more gears, the SRAM 32 is always a safe backup plan.
On a side note, I will be fitting a fill CeramicSpeed drive chain to this (OSPW, BB, chain).
Buying the DA11-30 cassette with a selection of front rings (46, 48 & 50). Will go from there and IF I feel the need for more gears, the SRAM 32 is always a safe backup plan.
On a side note, I will be fitting a fill CeramicSpeed drive chain to this (OSPW, BB, chain).
SL8 S-Works Project Black - 6.29kg
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Sometimes setting the B screw too far in also shortens the distance between pulley and cassette. Sometimes you need it set further in than max which means you replace it with a longer or turn the screw around to the other side.
Without a cable attached and b-screw barely inserted you can easily move the derailleur with your hands. Check which angle it needs to maximize the gap.
I recently installed a sram red mid cage derailleur on a friends bike running an x1099 36t cassette. His bike has a fairly long hanger so this is barely possible.
I almost gave up at first because the pulley was too close to the cogs at max/mid setting B-screw. Then after checking the geometry for a while I noticed where the B-screw needs to be to maximize the gap. It took a few tries but I got it to a point where it just works and the drivetrain is silent.
If it were too small the jump from 2nd to 1st would be noisy and potentially dangerous as the chain is wedging/crushing the derailleur open past it's range.
In order to measure where the largest gap is you just need to set the low gear limit screw so you can hold the derailleur over the largest cog. Then in this position you swing it around its mounting bolt axis and see where the gap is largest. Set the B screw to default the derailleur to this position.
If it's still not large enough get a road link or another derailleur. Changing the cage usually only helps with chain slack (gear total capacity). It doesn't help with clearing a large cog.
/a
Without a cable attached and b-screw barely inserted you can easily move the derailleur with your hands. Check which angle it needs to maximize the gap.
I recently installed a sram red mid cage derailleur on a friends bike running an x1099 36t cassette. His bike has a fairly long hanger so this is barely possible.
I almost gave up at first because the pulley was too close to the cogs at max/mid setting B-screw. Then after checking the geometry for a while I noticed where the B-screw needs to be to maximize the gap. It took a few tries but I got it to a point where it just works and the drivetrain is silent.
If it were too small the jump from 2nd to 1st would be noisy and potentially dangerous as the chain is wedging/crushing the derailleur open past it's range.
In order to measure where the largest gap is you just need to set the low gear limit screw so you can hold the derailleur over the largest cog. Then in this position you swing it around its mounting bolt axis and see where the gap is largest. Set the B screw to default the derailleur to this position.
If it's still not large enough get a road link or another derailleur. Changing the cage usually only helps with chain slack (gear total capacity). It doesn't help with clearing a large cog.
/a